Engine Coolant Temp Switch (A/C)

[pot]

Good afternoon gents. It’s been a while since the software update but I’m online now and awfully glad to be back.

I’ve spent this winter removing all the unnecessary electrical wiring that I don’t intend on using now that I’ve since removed the hardware i.e. ABS, Air Conditioner, Radio Antenna, etc.

As I write this message, I’ve come along an issue with removing the Engine Coolant Temperature Switch that sits on top of the Thermostat Housing. Per the FSM, this is connector B-22. The one circuit, Gb goes to C-12 (ECU). This was easy to remove however, it’s Gr that’s proving difficult to remove. Gr connects directly to A-08 (front wiring harness and control air inf harness combination) please see first image.

* I’m having a difficult time removing this circuit. In short, should I be using the terminal removal tool on the left or right? Please see third image.

I appreciate any help anyone can provide. Thank you.

 

[tyeler18]

Left, push the wire in towards the tool, flip the lock then pull out.

 

[toybreaker]

... i would strongly recommend against using the ummm, interesting looking tool on the far right :eek5c:

 

[toybreaker]

It's worth noting that the a/c overtemp switch had an important job in the original configuration.
When coolant temps passed it's threshold/set temp, it would shut the a/c compressor off and spin up both fans

Depending on how much wiring you remove when you delete your a/c, you can utilize the a/c request button ( the one with the snowflake on it) on the dash as a request button for a secondary fan.

This allows you to tun on the fan in the staging lanes to bring the radiator temperature down enough to get some reserve thermal capacity in the system

 

[pot]

Tyeler and John I appreciate the swift response on this matter and will proceed accordingly.

I should have stated this earlier, but I’ve spent the better part of the week unsuccessfully trying to remove this circuit with the single bladed terminal removal tool. *The same tool I’ve used for every circuit on this harness.

In this particular case, on connector A-08, and out of desperation, I removed a grey plastic piece that separated the top to bottom terminals. And under magnification it almost appeared as though there were two lancers/tangs retaining the terminal.

Either way, thank you both for the feedback. This gives me the confidence I needed that in fact I’m not crazy. I’ll report back on my success.

 

[toybreaker]

yeah,i hear ya on the different style connectors used all over these cars ... pretty frustrating!

... it really makes you wonder why they couldn't pick one or two styles of terminals/shells and build the harness logical like
You can say what you want about GM, their metri-pac series connectors are much easier to work with


I can only surmise that the same purchasing agent at Mitsubishi who had a brother with a warehouse full of green/yellow and black/yellow wire must of had another brother with a warehouse full of one off connectors he needed to foist off on somebody ... bob's yer uncle, let make it work ... it'll be fine ...



I know the purists will hate me, but I use a mix of Deutsch/Amphenol style terminals/shells for the high current stuff, and metripac for most of the other engine room needs on most of the chassis harnesses that I do anymore, regardless of what I'm working on. Those terminals (and the tools to work with them ) can be found anywhere there's a napa and an airport, ensuring a repairable / serviceable harness no matter where the vehicle runs out of electricity and the magic pixels dance no more


One nice thing about working on Mitsubishi harnesses / doing factory terminals is that Mr Sheridan found found most of them and you can order them up from JNZ

Using fresh quality wire (GXL on the big stuff and TXL for the signal side), a really clean and tidy engine loom can be built at home fairly cost effectively, and you can build it / route as you like


It's awesome to see you put the work into this project, Pot!

Please post some pics when it's done, and consider a write up/how to, as you do really clean, well thought out work

 

[pot]

John as is typical of you, the insight and background knowledge you provide proves incredible time and time again. Thank you for the feedback and praise.

I think there are far better techs on this forum especially in the electrical realm, but I’ll do my best to do a write up on removal of the hard and associated electrical accessories.

I came to a crossroads a year or so ago with 182. I wanted a lightweight, reliable, and stupid fast galant that still retained all the original bells and whistles but realized in short order it isn’t practical to have your proverbial cake and eat it too. Having removed non-essential hardware, the associated wiring had to go also -both for weight and cleanliness purposes.

Once the A/C wiring is completely removed next will be the E-TACS (Hope I spelled this correctly).

 

[iceman69510]

Sorry to be late to the party. There are a couple generations of those NMWP connectors. When I started building the adapter harnesses, I took one of the 8-pin type apart. The early gen found on VR4s and 1g vehicles female side has a special double-locking terminal retention. i basically had to destroy one to figure out how to get the terminals out. I have a few of the 10-pin housings like you show, and I have the newer style single lock terminals if you want me to send you some. I think I may still have the guinea pig connector to reference if you are still having trouble.

 

[pot]

Dave thanks for contributing to this discussion. I still haven’t been able to release the terminal on this connector and it is making me damn near insane.

To be sure, are you stating that this connector is a double locking pin type? If so, will this tool on the right do the trick? Or when you have a moment would you mind describing your method for removing the pin from this connector?

I look forward to hearing from you and thanks again for your feedback Dave.