Car won’t start. Need help!!

[GVR41380]

So I had my Galant sitting for 5 months since I don’t drive her in the winter here in Chicago, but once every month I would start it up and let it warm up for about 5-6 mins, about a month ago I went to start her up again and my battery was dead, so I had to jump start it and she started up and I let her warm up again, then I bought a new battery and put it in and went to start it up and the car will crank and turn on but my rpm’s will be really be low, about 200-300 rpm’s and then the car will just turn off, again I tried to start it again and this time I was pressing the gas petal to try and keep the engine on and then my exhaust makes a pop noise out the back and again just turns off, so I pulled my fuel pump to see if anything came loose, everything looks fine on the fuel pump, I then changed my old fuel filter bc since I’ve owned the car I’ve haven’t had a chance to change it, and then I bought a new MPI relay, the gold relay located under the glovebox, and then I thought it could be my MAP sensor since my car is tuned on speed density. I then took out the CAS from the valve cover and left it connected to the harness and had the key in the “ON” position and turned the CAS with my fingers, my FPR is reading 37lbs of fuel pressure so the CAS seems to be working properly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I’m trying to get this car running so I can sell it, I’ve had this car since 2012 and I’ve put too much money into it. Put them again so have we all with these cars, lol thanks guys

 

[turbofonz]

If the car is on speed density, I assume it's on ECMlink? Hook it up and check. I've seen more then once, the MAP sensor or wiring to it get finicky and the car will read 40psi or -30 when it's atmospheric and won't fuel correctly , or run at all.

Look for any values that read way off, coolant temp sensors can also fail, reading -74* or some sh*t, and once again, the car will over fuel and flood out and not run.

It's much easier to diagnose when you have data to look at.

 

[GVR41380]

If the car is on speed density, I assume it's on ECMlink? Hook it up and check. I've seen more then once, the MAP sensor or wiring to it get finicky and the car will read 40psi or -30 when it's atmospheric and won't fuel correctly , or run at all.

Look for any values that read way off, coolant temp sensors can also fail, reading -74* or some sh*t, and once again, the car will over fuel and flood out and not run.

It's much easier to diagnose when you have data to look at.

I do have ECMlink v3 but when I plug it into my labtop the light on the little box connected to the cable will light up for a split second and then turn it, like it connects for a split second then nothing and when I click “connect” on my laptop to connect so I can look at the values it won’t connect, 5 months ago I had it working just fine when I would plug it in to tune the car, I don’t know if it’s just the ecmlink cable or on car wiring side, I changed the spark plugs today bc they were all black looking, after I installed the new plugs the car started up stronger as in the rpm’s got up to 2000 rpm’s and then again I tried giving it gas and chokes up and engine just turns off, I think I’m going to take off the injectors and clean them, maybe they are clogged up since the car has been sitting for 6 months now.

 

[yubh8tn]

Fresh gas?

 

[GVR41380]

Fresh gas?

Yeah I put 5 gallons of fresh 93 octane in the tank, I also for one of my spare CAS and hooked it up and the car started and I got to rev it up two times up to around 2100 rpms and then its like the car chokes on no fuel, I installed FIC 1220 Injectors a little over 2 years ago maybe I should take them out and clean them? I'm going to change out the coolant temp sensor right under the thermostat, and other suggestions I'm all ears.

 

[mk2davis]

Regarding the cable, mine did the same and it was the cable itself. Ask for a new one. They were really good about sending one out when the same thing happened to me. In the meantime, you can sometimes jiggle some stuff around the boxes and get it to work. I remember taping the cable to the box with the right tension and it worked for a week or two.

To me, your symptoms sound similar to mine when I had a ISC/FIAV issue. You might also want to look for boost leaks... I know they can do strange things when changing vacuum pressure.

You can check the injectors if you want, but if it started strong and then your rpms climbed, it sounds like they are fine. Or at least functional.

 

[mk2davis]

How long does it take for rpms to get to around 2K? Maybe it's an O2 issue. How is your set up?

 

[GVR41380]

Regarding the cable, mine did the same and it was the cable itself. Ask for a new one. They were really good about sending one out when the same thing happened to me. In the meantime, you can sometimes jiggle some stuff around the boxes and get it to work. I remember taping the cable to the box with the right tension and it worked for a week or two.

To me, your symptoms sound similar to mine when I had a ISC/FIAV issue. You might also want to look for boost leaks... I know they can do strange things when changing vacuum pressure.

You can check the injectors if you want, but if it started strong and then your rpms climbed, it sounds like they are fine. Or at least functional.

So your saying if I email ECMTuning.com and tell them about the cable not working they will send me a new one? I hope your right because it would save me so much time trying to diagnose this issue I'm having. and with your issue did you replace your ISC/FIAV sensors? and did that fix it?

 

[GVR41380]

How long does it take for rpms to get to around 2K? Maybe it's an O2 issue. How is your set up?

So when I crank it over and it starts the rpms will get right up to a little over 2100rpms and then when i put my foot on the gas petal the cars idle drops straight to zero and turns off, and last time i tried to start it i gave it 50% throttle and rpms drop fast and the exhaust will make one kinda loud "POP" noise out the back. im running one O2 in the O2 housing right after the Turbo, not in the downpipe.

 

[mk2davis]

So your saying if I email ECMTuning.com and tell them about the cable not working they will send me a new one? I hope your right because it would save me so much time trying to diagnose this issue I'm having. and with your issue did you replace your ISC/FIAV sensors? and did that fix it?

They did for me about 2 years ago. Same symptoms, green light would flash when connected, but nothing else. It seemed like there was an internal connection that was there technically, but any load with overwhelm the connection and it would short out.

The popping sound makes it seem like timing or fuel mixture. I know nothing about SD, as I am still on a MAF. Is your O2 a wide band running the narrow band simulation? It sounds like your car is running for about 5 seconds, is this right? My car warms up the wide band for about 15 seconds while in open loop, and then goes to closed. Any chance yours is idling high while on open loop and then stalling at closed? What happens if you just let your car idle at 2k and you don't blip the throttle?

I don't have any solid ideas as to what your issue may be. I'm just thinking out loud with what my inclinations are. Hopefully someone with SD experience will see this. I wonder if when the battery died you lost a compensation value?

 

[GVR41380]

The car seems to stall when it goes to closed loop, but then again I need to get a new ecm cable, so after I get the new cable I will see if I can look at the log in the car. I noticed that my radiator hoses are pressurized like the car has been running hott but it has been sitting for 6 months now without movement, all I have done since the car has been sitting is I would warm up the car once a month for 5-6 mins at a time, and I noticed when I would rev it (2 step) it would blow a cloud of blueish smoke, maybe I should change the coolant temp sensor and thermostat? I don’t know if this would cause the car to stall after starting it and running for 3 seconds tops. I don’t think my wideband is running a narrow band simulation, I will have to ask my tuner who tuned the car 2 years ago. So far these are the new parts I’ve throw in her since my no start up, ( new fuel filter right before the rail, new 3.5 bar MAP sensor, new MPI relay, new relay for the rewrite kit in the back by the fuel pump, new spark plugs (NGK bpr7es)

I tried starting the car and not touching the gas at all and it won’t even get to 2k rpm’s

 

[turbofonz]

Once again, before actually seeing data, you're just throwing parts at the car. With data, you'll likely find something obvious.

 

[GVR41380]

Here is a video I made of me trying to start it just two times.
I guess I’m just going to get a new ECM cable for my labtop and when I look at the data I will reach out here again for help. No more throwing parts at it, I agree

 

[gvr4ever]

Pull the ECU and check the three main caps and any other damage. Also make sure the CAS (correction) connector didn't get bumped while working on it. I've done that before. I agree, don't just throw parts at it.

 

[slugsgomoo]

You need to ensure the ECU isn't damaged as @gvr4ever points out- If the caps are bad it explains a lot.

That said, I've seen a CAS go bad before where it was fine until the car warmed up and then it started reporting extremely erratic data (i.e. 11k+ RPM at idle, etc). I would not replace it until you get into the ECU and confirm what's actually wrong.

If the ISC driver on the ECU is smoked (also possible given the symptoms), don't plug the ecu in after getting it repaired until you verify the ISC isn't bad. I've had the FIAV leak into the ISC, short it, and kill two ECUs in a row before I checked, you don't want that evil on you

 

[GVR41380]

I just ordered a new ecmlink cable and will have it in the next 3-4 days so after I get the cable I will post again with more information

 

[GVR41380]

Pull the ECU and check the three main caps and any other damage. Also make sure the CAS (correction) connector didn't get bumped while working on it. I've done that before. I agree, don't just throw parts at it.

I looked at the caps and they looked fine I didn’t see any acid coming out from them, I will post a pic of the ecu later today for you to look at maybe I missed something

 

[GVR41380]

Should I just send in my ECU to ECMtuning and have them go over it?

 

[mk2davis]

That would be the safe thing to do. Personally, I think it's largely unnecessary, as I don't suspect the ECU. But I'm also wrong. A lot.

If time was not a concern, sending it in would rule out the ECU. If time is a concern, I wouldn't hesitate to use the new cable and carry on.

 

[GVR41380]

That would be the safe thing to do. Personally, I think it's largely unnecessary, as I don't suspect the ECU. But I'm also wrong. A lot.

If time was not a concern, sending it in would rule out the ECU. If time is a concern, I wouldn't hesitate to use the new cable and carry on.

Yeah I’m just waiting for the new cable to come in, and when I get the cable if it still doesn’t connect to my laptop then I’m sending in the ECU to get looked over and fixed by ECMTuning, time is not a concern, thanks for the advise