broken exhaust manifold stud in head?

It's broken off inside, nothing sticking out to grab. Any ideas how to remove it short of pulling the head and re drilling?

 

[ktmrider]

No offense but nearly ALL the questions you have asked over the last few weeks are covered in the How To section on this site and VFAQ internet site.

At least try to search...

 

[fuel]

yes I've done exactly that - luckily the stud I broke was the one on the left most side at the top so there was a bit of clearance to get a drill in there with the radiator removed (it was removed anyway to fit the manifold).

First step - go buy a really good drill bit say about 3-4mm in diameter (sorry don't know what that translates to in imperial) along with a stud extractor set (easy-outs etc) and carefully drill a hole into the middle the broken stud about 5mm deep. Next use the appropriate sized stud extractor and tap it in with a hammer to get a good bite, then attach the electric drill on reverse onto the extractor and pray to jesus the stud extractor has got a good grip on the broken stud to wind it out.

 

[jmorri15]

i can testify that will work great if the stud broke because it was tightened too much but didn't bottom out. if it did good luck

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting ktmrider:
No offense but nearly ALL the questions you have asked over the last few weeks are covered in the How To section on this site and VFAQ internet site.

At least try to search...

And the How-To thread has pictures.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[rdomeck]

Quoting fuel:
yes I've done exactly that - luckily the stud I broke was the one on the left most side at the top so there was a bit of clearance to get a drill in there with the radiator removed (it was removed anyway to fit the manifold).

First step - go buy a really good drill bit say about 3-4mm in diameter (sorry don't know what that translates to in imperial) along with a stud extractor set (easy-outs etc) and carefully drill a hole into the middle the broken stud about 5mm deep. Next use the appropriate sized stud extractor and tap it in with a hammer to get a good bite, then attach the electric drill on reverse onto the extractor and pray to jesus the stud extractor has got a good grip on the broken stud to wind it out.



Agree with most of that, except for the drill in reverse. Most of the easy out stud extractor's have a square shank like a tap has. Use a tap handle and take is nice and slow. You would be double screwed if you broke the extractor as they are hardened and you will not be able to drill it out!

 

[fuel]

my drill is a good quality variable speed unit - I did forget to mention set the speed on very low, almost hand pace. The reason I used the drill instead of the hand tap, was so I could apply more force to the easy out while turning it. It seemed to do the trick quite well.

 

[thedsmguy]

Small reverse drill bit first. Sometimes it doesn't take much for them to come out. Then a traditional easy out. Then if no luck weld on the broken stud to get it to stick out of the head far enough to weld a nut on to it and turn it out with a wrench.

Good luck.

 

[prove_it]

If your stud broke off in the lower corner, I usually just drill out the stud slowly and as exact as perfect until I can drill and tap the hole for 2G studs. These are a bigger stud that is less prone to breakage. It beats trying hard to not mess up the old threads and you will need new studs anyway.

My two cents.

 

Thanks guys! That's really cool about the 2g studs, I would have never know that from a search! Sorry about the newb questions btw, I do search (most of the time), but when I can't find my answer I make sure to make my post topic as clear as possible for further searches.

 

[Wizardawd]

Not just 2g studs they implemented the 10mm outer studs from 93 on. Aka all 7bolt motors.

Wiz