Bearing and crankshaft wear.

[JackstandTSi]

Im going to be replacing my bearings in my GVR4. I took off the Mains and they seem to look ok except for the rear which i noticed some copper starting to show, Front and Center seem ok. no copper showing. Im pretty un-expierenced when coming to stuff like this. Im not sure what to look for as of bearing wear and proper replacement and specs.
I got a few pics from my phone, i also grabbed some of the crankshaft to maybe someone on here can tell me if it looks to be in good shape.
Front Main

Center Main.

Rear Main

I noticed this little marking on the crank at the rear also right above the oil gally not sure if this is normal or not.

And the rest of the crankshaft look like this.

I plan to do some research on the size of the Crank to make sure it hasnt been cut so i know to get the proper size bearings, I think im going to repolish the crank if it needs it but other than that i just want to put some matching bearings in and go.

Thank you

 

[iceman69510]

What is the background on the engine? No failure, just rebuild time? From what I can tell, everything looks fairly normal. You should mic the crank as you said.

If you are referring to the groove on the rear main, that gets caused by the seal. Sometimes on a rebuild I try to get the seal in a slightly different place to make sure it does not ride in the same spot.

 

[DynastyLCD]

id say you could polish, install new bearings, and run it by the looks of it!

 

[JackstandTSi]

Quoting iceman69510:
What is the background on the engine? No failure, just rebuild time? From what I can tell, everything looks fairly normal. You should mic the crank as you said.

If you are referring to the groove on the rear main, that gets caused by the seal. Sometimes on a rebuild I try to get the seal in a slightly different place to make sure it does not ride in the same spot.



I got this engine as a trade for some body panels on a car i was junking. I was told that it kept mixing oil and coolant and has 98k. The only thing i noticed was that previous owner tried to tap a transmission bolt and went to far and punched into a oil gally in the block people on here said it is just a oil return gally its not under pressure just helicoil and thread seal it and should be fine. I have a Bare .20 over block i could swap the rods and crank over to if this block is no good but its been sitting for awhile and has some surface rust I didnt want to have to use it because i cant afford .20 over pistons plus i have never Installed rings nor pistons and again cant afford a shop to do it.

Is there somewhere i can find which gallys are oil and coolant to see if they are damaged and see if that was the issue of the mix.

EDIT- It also has ARP head studs, Im going to replace those because I always heard you can only torque them 1-2 times then they need replaced, whether true or not i would like to replace them for peace of mind.

 

[fuel]

I would pull off the head and check the gasket for obvious signs of leaking, and get the head checked for straightness. I've found Mitsu engines are more prone to mixing oil/coolant when they blow a HG rather than blowing into an actual cylinder. Another thought could be the factory oil cooler if it still has one.

 

[JackstandTSi]

I didnt get a head with the car, just a bottom end. Im going to be running my 1g 7bolt head i have left from my talon. Just incase this block is no good what would i look for signs of oil and coolant mixtures? Cracks or holes in the gallys or would i look in the cylinder walls themselves.

 

[alansupra94]

To test for cracks, most shops will magnaflux. I will say it is pretty rare (at least imo) to get cracks in a cast iron block. Also your crank/caps looks fine.

 

[prove_it]

I like to run the ACL race series bearings with the ".001 extra oil clearance and rotella 15w-40 oil. Works great! I'd say measure the crank, I'm sure it's good though. Be sure to check for out of round and taper, don't just measure one spot on each journal and call it good. It looks like you can get the crank polished and throw some bearings in it and your good. Getting the crank balanced won't hurt either, but it's not necessary.

I got a whole set of OEM main bolts if you want. I can give you a good deal. Just PM me.