I removed ball joint with press and the Moog replacement slips in with no need of a press so I tried a Dorman and it was also not tight . Not sloppy but they rotate. Are these safe to use or do I need to get a complete control arm with joint in it?

You can hit the housing a little with a hammer. If he has the seger ring he will not leave his position

Hit the housing where? I wonder if some red locktite would take care of the rotation safely.

paul j said:

Hit the housing where? I wonder if some red locktite would take care of the rotation safely.

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You can do this on the edge of the housing to close up some of the slack. No, loctite will have no effect. It is only used to lock threads. Another method you can use is once the ball joint is on, apply some welding points.

ok. I had considered spot weld first but decided against it. Thanks

paul j said:

ok. I had considered spot weld first but decided against it. Thanks

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I've had problems with them at times - different diameters by brand, year, lot, etc. I don't know if anyone would stock enough variety anymore but if Napa or someone has multiple brands, take some calipers and see if any are a better fit.

or

Turn a sleeve, press in with loctite 620 (retaining compound, not threadlocker) or weld the sleeve. Then bore to size for a proper fit to the ball joints you have.

Don't leave them loose and hope a snap ring holds it.

And if it helps - last time I bought some they fit great - TRW JBJ174. RockAuto still has them.