Hi.
I'm Remy, i live in France Europe.
I'm not the owner of this Galant, i help a friend for build it from 17 years sleeping in a garage.
He has found this car already modified ( cage group N rally )but without motor and tranny.
Alls parts dismounted and engine harness hacked. Many Rally Art parts unknow...
Model/ E-E39A SNPF4
CHASSIS NO/ E39A-0022 152
ENGIN/ 4G63
EXT /WM9
TRANS AXLE/ WSM333545
COLOR OPT/ W0988U000
10/26/1990

We have found a crached Eagle Talon for donor car, with motor and tranny only 12000 miles.

Pictures :




This car was imported from Japan directly and converted RHD to LHD, fire wall swap!
So the engine harness is eavy modified and i dont have the color wire chart for the ECU MD 150427
I have found one red wire cuted from this connector :


Also, i have found a Lambda sensor with only one wire, i know the DSM 1G has four wires lambda.
I need to know if it come from factory with one wire thanks.

We dont have the VAC canister for the Cyclone head, my friend look to buy one...

For information i dont have this car at my home, my friend live at 600km from me.
I help by phone and my knowledge base for the DSM/CSM world.
I'm a Dodge Colt GT89 owner imported to France, my build thread on 4G61T.org

Thanks again for your help...
Remy

wow.. you have one of the very few E39A RS with 4WS which have fallen into private hands. Just about all RS models are the E38A without 4WS. That one has the earlier model wheels and outer tail lamps.

It's also a 90.06 model so only *just* misses out by one month of being Evolution spec with the 510cc injectors, larger intercooler & piping, hood vents, bumper vents. Unfortunately because it's an E39A RS as opposed to an E38A RS it will retain the earlier 3.545 rear ratio with 3 bolt viscous LSD rear and normal gearbox as opposed to 4-bolt 3.909 with close ratio box of the E38A of the same year/month.

Check this page for more info on each model of JDM VR-4 available - click

She's a beaut, I like that cage too.

The transmission come from the Talon has the exact match ratio 3.545 .
The rear dif from the Galant is B2H 3.545 ratio.
We dont have problem with this thing, but this day David the owner has a problem with the drive shaft.
He hit the rear steering rack, we dont understand why !


We appreciate your help too much ...
I think your link is dead.
Remy

I'll take the manuals to work tomorrow and scan the mpi system for you.

Rich

I believe thats the middle piece of the driveshaft.
The piece that goes there is the short one/3rd piece.
Heres how it should look like fully assembled(the black one,1st post/pic)
click
Short piece goes there
More pics pls!
Does it have guards/plates under the car covering the fuel lines?

Is that a Talon driveshaft your using?

Looks Like I had it scanned already... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Here's a useful index of info for the JDM vr-4: click

Here's the wiring diagram for your MPI system specifically: click

Hope this helps /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Rich

@ kama1: Good point on this !
David the owner had the drive shaft dismounted in three pieces, i'm still waiting after another test from him next week end.
Thanks for your link, very usefull!
The fuel line goes inside the car, look the rear cage picture.

@ GSX_TC: this is the original drive shaft, but mismatched i think.

@ misterfixit: I appreciate too much your scan work !
I think the famous red cuted wire is the 15 pin, EGR temp sensor.
And your scan confirm the one wire question for the lambda sensor on JDM Galant instead the four wires on the USDM model...

This is more pics from this Gallant :
Another vue from the drive shaft and rear diff




Fuel pump hanger after 17 years storage in tank


Rear trunk


Ohlins gravel GR'N struts, good for rebuild


Engine bay, look the tube from the cage on the top strut mount


Thanks for your help again, we appreciate /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Remy

Wow that's not quite right!
The top piece goes into the transfer case, obviously.
The large mount goes at the back of the car. You need to take that 4 bolt flange off the right hand end of the drive shaft and put it on the left hand end.

Here's some photos I had laying around:

This is looking under the car, at the fuel tank, towards the front of the car.


Another view of the large mount, rear diff is out of frame to the left. Front of car to the right.


This shows the driveshaft hanger/bearing that should be around the skinny part on the lower right hand section.



Is that a skid plate on the rear diff?

honestly, it's the first galant i've seen with manual windows.

Ah looks horrible. I say junk it and ship me the front bumper, rear bumper and foglights. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

You need to drop the driveshaft and start again.

The lobro joint goes at the diff end. The companion flange you have is on the wrong cruciform, it needs to go at the other end. The inner bearing track thing you have currently at the diff end should have the second support bearing attached, the plain section goes at the transfer case end.

Apologies for the Deutsch, this is out of the German tech information manual:

A better view of the segment near the diff:


There was a long how to on rebuilding your driveshaft here but I can't find it. Can one of the others help locate it? That had loads of photographs.

Hope this helps,

Rich

Quoting ColtiXim:
@ kama1: Good point on this !
David the owner had the drive shaft dismounted in three pieces, i'm still waiting after another test from him next week end.
Thanks for your link, very usefull!
The fuel line goes inside the car, look the rear cage picture.

@ GSX_TC: this is the original drive shaft, but mismatched i think.

@ misterfixit: I appreciate too much your scan work !
I think the famous red cuted wire is the 15 pin, EGR temp sensor.
And your scan confirm the one wire question for the lambda sensor on JDM Galant instead the four wires on the USDM model...

This is more pics from this Gallant :
Another vue from the drive shaft and rear diff




Fuel pump hanger after 17 years storage in tank


Rear trunk


Ohlins gravel GR'N struts, good for rebuild


Engine bay, look the tube from the cage on the top strut mount


Thanks for your help again, we appreciate /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Remy