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New Owner of #1899/2000


minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024612 posted 10/10/11 12:41 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What's up GVR4'ers? My name is Andre and I bought #1899/2000 two months ago. Since this is my intro thread too, I guess I'll tell you guys a little about myself. I'm 24, been snowboarding for 13 years, grow over 200 orchids and plants, have a Norwegian Elkhound (3 yrs. old), and keep two aquariums (30 gal. mixed reef and 3 gallon freshwater). I keep myself pretty busy without a job. Recently graduated college and decided it was time to get a project car. Currently D/D a 96 Camry, but I needed something to enjoy driving again. This car is going to be my collector car too, so it won't see the harsh MN winters that it has faced in the past. I love Japanese cars, but I don't know much about how cars work. Luckily I have help and am always learning something new. This is my learner car.

Method grab



30 gal. mixed reef (Fish - Black Ocellaris Misbar Clownfish pair, Blue Mandarin Dragonet, Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse, Cherub Angelfish, Green Chromis, and two Yasha Hase gobies; Inverts - Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, Porcelain Crab, Sexy Shrimp, and asst. Snails and hermits)



Schoenorchis manipurensis - super tiny Vandaceous orchid from India.



Neofinetia falcata 'Benisuzume' ('Red Sparrow') - Vandaceous orchid from Japan/Korea. 'Benisuzume' is the cultivar name of the species. Smells like bubblegum and jasmine. Extremely fragrant.



Alright, now some info on my whip. Currently has 189K on the odometer and the engine was rebuilt at about 186K. I Bought the car with the major obvious flaws being a "lifter tick" problem and power steering leaks. Timing belt was also abnormally worn considering it was fairly new. Inside was 8.5/10 and body is about 8/10. Good looking car for being in MN for all those years. Clear coat is fading, slight surface rust, few dings/scratches. Will need to be painted. Also came with ametallic blue pinstriping on top of the clear coat. Is this a factory add-on or aftermarket?

-1991 A71
-Rebuilt Engine (complete long block rebuilt, bottom end and cylinder head) (OEM)
-New timing belt (OEM)
-New water pump (OEM)
-New oil pump (OEM)
-New headgasket (OEM)
-New Clutch
-New sparkplugs and wires
-Every gasket has been replaced (OEM)
-New Optima Yellowtop
-New Alternator
-New tires



As soon as the car got back to my place, we put it on jack stands. Next day we worked on the lifters. I replaced with ITM revised lifters. Got them all in and put the cover back on. Started the car and there was still a knocking noise. Saw the saddest look on my friend's face because he knew what was up. It was either a spun rod bearing or bad wrist pins. I was then told I would have to rebuild the short block. This made me very angry at first, but now I'm optimistic about getting this going again. To makes things worse, I never got to drive the car. I've driven manual once in my brother's EP3, which is pretty forgiving. When I looked at the car, I had three friends with me, 2 of which are tuners. I rode shotgun the whole way back. The transmission shifts real clean and the clutch is solid, so I'm told.

Over the past few weeks, I've had help getting the motor out. It's almost completely disassembled minus the crankshaft. Along the way, I found out that the 14b, which had been replaced already has shaft play and cracking. When we took the oil pan off, we noticed a lot of metal shavings. Friend said that is a spun rod bearing. Spun the crank and heard a popping sound from #1. The piston pops on the way up and back down.





































For the rebuild, I have decided on going with the Modern Auto 2.3L stroker (stage 1). Do you guys suggest using ARP main studs and align honing? Kiggly girdle? Not planning on running high boost, but insurance is nice. I'm going to eliminate my balance shafts with the AMS kit or machining instead of having them do a stub shaft. Will need a 4g64 crank too.

-Hot Tank/Boil Block
-Polished Crank
-Balanced Rotating Assembly
-ACL Race Series Main and Rod Bearings
-Overbore with Torque Plate
-Fully Decked Block Surface
-Wiseco (8.8:1 CR)
-Eagle Connecting Rods

The cams will need to be replaced too for this build and I'm going with FP3x's made by Comp Cams. Also going to replace the turbo with an EVOIII16g. Hopefully within a week or two, I can get the block sent in.

Any input and advice along the way greatly appreciated. I'm glad to be a part of this community. Hopefully by spring I can get the car working again.


Edited by minneSNOWta (06/06/13 11:33 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (97.112.118.124) | Report this post to a Moderator

kartorium
hillbilly racer
334/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024620 posted 10/10/11 01:35 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Snowboarding for 13 yrs and you live in MN? What a miserable thought. Nice method though

Posts: 2962 | From: ellensburg,wa | Member Since: 01/14/02 | IP: (71.80.198.245) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024678 posted 10/10/11 11:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Nice VR4, welcome to the board, sorry to hear about your problems. You should get all arp hardware and the balance shaft eliminator is a nice safey mod so u don't ever have to worry about that belt tangling up in the timing belt.



JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V Twin Turbskie "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara" 550<

Posts: 3700 | From: Houston, Texas | Member Since: 04/07/11 | IP:
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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024704 posted 10/10/11 02:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Looks to me like the balance shafts were already removed on that engine. You can tell because the front case cover and oil pump are still mounted but the shafts are missing.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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SmoothCustomer
Public school educated knowitall


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024744 posted 10/10/11 04:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^Yeah, you can even see the stub shaft in the last picture there. Anyway, welcome aboard and good luck!



-Eric
2015 FR-S

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zberto
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024755 posted 10/10/11 05:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Don't use a paper gasket for the oil pan when you re install, use only sealant such as mitsu "bond" sealant. The oil will eventually soak through the paper gasket causing a mess.

I redid mine with just sealant and no leaks thus far.

Ps beautiful saltwater tank.


Edited by zberto (10/10/11 05:48 PM)

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TSI_shinobi
Newbie
452/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024971 posted 10/11/11 02:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
grats on the new car,

looks like your well on your way to having a nice driver, keep your chin up!



452/2000-Hako
1992 DodgeStealth RT/TT(400+whp)Christine
1996 Honda Civic (GSR swap project)
1989 Chrysler Conquest TSI SHP...SOLD
1994 TSIFWD- 16G, Riced out! Wrecked...(brother Cant Drive)

Posts: 23 | From: Glen Burnie | Member Since: 10/29/10 | IP: (205.167.186.198) | Report this post to a Moderator

Galactica
Member
???/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1024988 posted 10/11/11 03:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Awesome method grab! Welcome to the site! Besides the knock, it looks like you had the SAME groove in the timing belt like I just had to deal with. Stupid too long bolts in the oil pan....



???/1000 Kensington Grey A81, no sunroof, factory CD, making it 1 of 14 in that combo. 78K original, 16G turbo, Stage 3 KeyDiver

Posts: 103 | From: Beaverton, OR | Member Since: 08/23/11 | IP: (198.245.132.3) | Report this post to a Moderator

thedsmguy
Senior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1025083 posted 10/11/11 10:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Honestly, here is my advice. If you really do not plan on making more then say 350-400 hp (which is a lot in all honesty)then dont waste your money with a expensive rebuild, simply buy a running talon or eclipse and freshen it up with new cam, main, and crank seals and various gaskets and belts. Spend the other money on stuff like maintenance, brake upgrades, nice suspension, newer turbo, intercooler etc. You will likely be happier in the end I think. But to each his own, good luck with the car.

Posts: 1785 | From: Vancouver Washington | Member Since: 03/20/09 | IP: (24.20.91.222) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1025837 posted 10/14/11 03:23 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
kartorium - Yeah man, 13 years in MN. I'm the last dude still riding from my old crew of about 10 kids. To be honest, if it wasn't for jumps and jibs, it would be a lot more boring here. Lots of pros have been coming out of MN though (BJ Leines, Chad Otterstrom, Mason Aguirre, Joe Sexton, Dan Brisse, to name a few).

GSX_TC - I decided not to go with ARP mains and align honing. Going to go with MAP's stub shaft kit. I think the stub shaft I have is the OEM one.

turbowop - Thanks for not giving me guff. Seen your posts and others reactions and I get a good laugh.

SmoothCustomer - Thanks.

zberto - I'll make sure to use the proper sealant. The rebuilder before me skimped in areas. Also thanks for the tank comment.

TSI_shinobi - Thanks. Definitely keeping my chin up!

Galactica - Thanks. I'll check the oil pan bolts and see what's up.

thedsmguy - I'm still going with the rebuild. The stroker is what will end up suiting my needs in the end. Thanks for the advice though.


Alright, so my block is at MAP. Going with the Wiseco 9.0:1 CR, 85.5mm, and .020 overbore. Like I mentioned to Mike, not going with ARP mains and align honing. They are supplying the 4g64 crank for me, but I'm trying to buy a 4GCS block and crank for $300. I'll save $150 off the core-charge and have a spare block. Added a new front case and oil pump too. Total price with labor is $2800. Since I paid with a cash deposit, they took off $152. Core charge is $450 and that's why I want to supply and old crank. Manager said they can rebuild my 14b later on into an EVOIII16g for about $350, so it seems like a good option. Also said I should upgrade the oil pan because it will be too hard to get all the shavings out and for performance. Mentioned oil cooler too. Will have to explore that a bit. Right now the shop is backed up and the turn-around time is 4-6 weeks. Time to clean the engine bay.












Need to replace harmonic balancer. Friend's roommate has one laying around in good condition that I'm trying to get at.


Edited by minneSNOWta (06/06/13 11:35 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (97.112.111.5) | Report this post to a Moderator

broxma
retard monkey strength
379/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1025949 posted 10/15/11 05:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Was there no shop in your area that could do the work for you? It just sounds like a very retail price point to me but if you're rolling in it then by all means, go with what you want.

The MAP balance shaft stub is an OEM one. You'd be replacing a part with the same part. It's not a lot of scratch in the grand scheme of things but still

You don't appear to be an idiot which is nice. What type of normal duty and performance requirement are you looking to get out of the car?

Welcome to the board.

/brox



I am big into recycling though and if your not into sacrifice or burnt offerings, you may want to stick with 93 octane.

/brox

Posts: 911 | From: San Antonio Tx | Member Since: 11/16/09 | IP: (99.52.72.193) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1026024 posted 10/15/11 03:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting clownfish:



turbowop - Thanks for not giving me guff. Seen your posts and others reactions and I get a good laugh.






Your post was well put together and legible. You also seem to have a good head on your shoulders from what I can tell. You won't get any guff from me. Just don't go installing HIDs into your stock headlights.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1044962 posted 01/10/12 08:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Been a while, but a little has happened. Got the block back from MAP over Thanksgiving weekend. I did decide to go with the 2.3 stroker rebuild. Took the head to the local machine shop to get flushed, cleaned, decked, and checked. Stock cams were considered unusable, so I still need to get cams designed for the stroker. Other than that, head is all good. Talked to Comp and they said they can make the FP3's for me.

Block: 2.3 stoker (Stage 1)
Wiseco Forged Pistons - 8.8:1/85.5mm + .020 overbore
Eagle 150mm H-Beam Rods
ACL Rod Bearings
ACL Main Bearings
2.4 crank
New front case, oil pump installed, and BSE kit
OEM Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts

New Stuff (All brand-new!):
Gates timing belt
OEM tensioner
ITM water Pump and STM bolt kit
OEM engine overhaul gasket set
1990 Air-cooled oil filter housing
MAP Oil cooler kit with push lock lines and B&M cooler
OEM oil strainer and gasket
OEM MLS headgasket
OEM harmonic balancer
ARP headstuds
STM oil feed line kit
Spectra Oil Pan and STM stainless bolts
Stainless valve cover bolts
Stainless master to slave line(thanks 4nmuscle)
Zaklee clear timing belt cover

Replaced:
Turn signals
Foglights (Curtis cleaned these up, painted the housing black, and installed Lexus yellow fogs)
Corners (Curtis painted amber to match AMG corner look)























BNIB Eterna ZR-4 grille with 4x4 badge(Thanks Dennis.)



Here's where the PS is leaking really bad. I may be looking into getting the lines all re-made at a hydraulic shop.






Still need to get new idler and tensioner pulleys. Intercooler piping, brackets, valve cover, intake plenum, and more went to the powdercoater. Have not sealed oil pan yet. Engine bay needs cleaning up and rust removal where the battery tray area is. When it warms up more, me and the homies will be attacking the engine bay assembly line style. Got most of the missing interior pieces except one little circle clip. Thanks to GSX_TC, 524of1000, Alpha Male, Diego, 4nmuscle, Curtis, galantgti, Cutlass Jim, MMCVR4, and anyone else I forgot who helped me out with parts and such.


Edited by minneSNOWta (03/06/15 09:09 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (97.112.101.187) | Report this post to a Moderator

LIV4PSI
dyslexic 1051
1501/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1045023 posted 01/11/12 01:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Fresh engines always look so sexy. I almost hope ours lets go so we have an excuse to build it, I'm sure it will be our transmission first though. MAP seems like a cool shop to deal with. I love seeing that beast of an RX7 every year at the shootout. I saw it make its first shakedown pass even.



-Craig
1501 Build Thread


Posts: 1755 | From: O-H-I-O | Member Since: 11/24/11 | IP: (151.213.70.64) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1067801 posted 05/19/12 06:21 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
4 months have gone by and time to wake this thread up again.

Forgot to get pics of the Curtis fogs and turn signals. I need to get the fog lens cleaned up, so you can really see the blacked out housing and yellow lens.



The 14b that came with the car was junk, so I replaced it with a rebuilt MHI Evo III 16G with a ported turbine housing as well from TSITurbo95 off of DSM tuners. He has a good rep on there and is listed on the freelance section as well. There was a hairline crack near the flapper, but he tack welded it.

Got a bunch of things powder coated. Chose gloss black for everything except the intake plenum, VC, and fuel rail, which are gloss white. My Galant valve cover got ruined from media getting in the baffle, but I replaced with another powder coated DSM style one for now. A couple things I forgot to take pics of that were coated were the starter plate and a RRE spark plug cover





Even though the ECU that came with the car was super fresh, I still had Terry replace the caps and socket it for when I am ready for DSMlink. Well worth the small investment.



Here's the fuel rail and cam gears. I painted the spokes of the gears to give it a cool look since they will be visible with the Zaklee timing cover.



Brand Spankin' New Stuff:
OEM idler pulley
OEM tensioner pulley
OEM cylinder head block off plug(feeding turbo from OFH)
Bosch O2 sensor
Advance Auto knock sensor(legit OEM!)
NGK 7BPES
NGK spark plug wires
Drop Engineering motor mount kit(black w/ 75A lime green inserts)
Torque Solution front motor mount
OEM throttle body gaskets
OEM j-pipe gasket
Denso 1262 FPR(1G N/T Auto)
3000GT VR-4 oil filter
Crankshaft pin
STM Water Line Kit
All accessory Belts (2 of them are Gates and one is Polyrib?)
HKS 25th anniversary turbo timer w/ harness
Exhaust manifold stud and nut kit
2G heavy leather shift knob
OEM downpipe gasket
Clutch fork boot

Replacement Parts:
Stock cams(old ones had scoring)
Dipstick tube
N/T throttle body(saving for later use)
Exhaust manifold heat shield

Since I am running the '90 OFH, I had the nipple on the water pipe welded that ran to the old OFH. Forgot to take pics.

Painted a few things like the door trim, windshield wiper arms, fuel filter bracket, and a few misc. brackets I can't remember now. Also went through and decided to get rid of the rust where the battery tray sat and along the frame where the corrosion dripped. Paid one of my roommates in sushi to grind it out.



Then we went through and taped up the bay from about half of the strut towers back including the firewall. I would like to have stripped the whole bay, but the from the strut towers back, it doesn't look bad. Rust was the main issue and I wanted function over form. Hit the rust with Rust Reformer, went through with self etching primer, painted the bay in spray-canned Summit White, and finished off with clear. Looks a lot better than it did before. I forgot to take pics when it was all done in Summit White, but it was done, trust me.













Here's me doing something. Mainly just a shot of the new stuff that will be covered by the lower timing cover.



Shot of the passenger side.



Timing marks. My friend Matt said this would be important to document.





One of the rear motor mount bolts broke off from when we took the engine out, so we had to tackle that before we drop the engine back in. Used a grinder to grind the bolt flat against the steering rack, then punched a centering hole for drilling. We got one small cobalt bit through, but the others kept dulling. When we got to 1/4" I ended up getting 1/4" carbide to eat through it, which it did. Since we wandered so much, even with the drill press, the 4-point extractor wouldn't quite grab. It was either get another carbide bit or tap through the existing bolt with a 12mm. It ended up working and we got the mount on finally.





Replaced the leaky high pressure PS line thanks to Pot.



New fuel filter. Apparently the one I took off was not OEM and had been replaced before. It was gold instead of black, but at least it is OEM now.



More to come tonight. I'm behind on my pic organizing and me mo hungee.


Edited by minneSNOWta (03/06/15 09:21 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (97.112.121.19) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068514 posted 05/24/12 06:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Makin some good progress man, keep up the hard work.



JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V Twin Turbskie "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara" 550<

Posts: 3700 | From: Houston, Texas | Member Since: 04/07/11 | IP:
(208.54.83.146) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1087681 posted 09/30/12 09:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It's been a while... Lots of updates ahead since the new OEM fuel filter. 4 months later .

Could not get the DSM Drop front engine motor mount to fit, so I had to order a Torque Solution GVR4-specific front motor mount. It still has the same 75a hardness as the Drop rear, which is good.



Here's a side shot of the engine and the Drop driver's side mount. Much lighter and sleeker than the stock mount.



New EGR.



Rebuilt and ported Evo III 16G.



Dropping the engine in.









Installed the oil cooler where the A/C fan was. The fan came right out without having to take off the bumper with a little effort. Condenser stayed in too. The oil cooler is installed using radiator fan zip-tie-like things and is held to the condenser. Still have the A/C obviously, so will need to get a pulling slim fan on the radiator side.



Well, I posted in the technical thread, since I got my 2.3 going. Long story short, it had an idle at 2500, took her out to seat the rings on a short 3 mile drive before the battery died. Didn't charge it overnight. Took her out again with the high idle problem and all we heard was engine clunking. Stopped the car immediately and the damn intake cam gear had sheared off the pin on the intake camshaft. My Zaklee clear timing cover revealed the devastation. Skipped a bunch of teeth and bent some valves on the stock head. Towed the car from only a few houses down and back to JSB.

Luckily, I had bought a 1G ported, polished, and gasket-matched head with about 15K on it off of a built 2G GSX. The head is absolutely loaded. I had been meaning to get FP3x cams through COMP because the are NLA through FP, but the head came with them. Also with Supertech dual valve springs, Supertech titanium retainers, valves (Ferrea or ST), 3G lifters, cheap Onsuku (ebay) cam gears already degreed, and newish seals and seats. It had dynoed 480 HP on E85 at MAP's Boost for Boobies this past spring. Car was running a 2.4 stroker setup. I believe the car blew a HG, so he decided to part out the car and work on his turbo LSx FC.

Took the head to a local well-known machine shop to get it looked over. Some of the valves were sticking due to the E85, so I got the head hot tanked, resurfaced, valve job, new seals, and a couple helicoils for the exhaust manifold studs. The owner told me he couldn't identify some of the aftermarket parts, but that they were indeed aftermarket since they see a lot of these heads. I paid $575 for the head and $380 to the machine shop.














FP3X Cam Card



More to come, a little behind still.




Edited by minneSNOWta (06/06/13 11:26 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (97.112.127.102) | Report this post to a Moderator

feil8409
Junior Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1087768 posted 10/01/12 09:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You have terrible luck man, I will be praying for you.

Posts: 47 | From: boise, idaho | Member Since: 12/28/10 | IP: (174.255.128.28) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1116535 posted 04/03/13 01:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Can't believe it's been 6 months... Hopefully, I didn't forget anything. Have some info on what happened in the fall, but pretty much nothing this winter except saving money, snowboarding, and growing orchids.

This past January, our local orchid club got invited to participate in MN's only public orchid show at the Como Zoo's conservatory. I won my first ever blue ribbon and took a red too. All the plants on the bamboo mat were mine except for the one on the right which is my brother Kevin's. They are native species of Japan, but also found in China and Korea. The Japanese have been growing these since the 1600's. Thought of like a fine sword. Only nobility could possess such plants and they were draped over with gold or silver wool when displayed, like a fine sword. If you wanted to look at the plant, you had to put a a cloth over your mouth, like a fine sword. The culture of this species has been perfected and remains iconic. Plants have been sold for up to $100,000 for a special cultivar ('Seikai') in 2003 during Japan's strong economy (the time to be buying parts too).

The plant in the front is 'Houmeiden' ('Bountiful Bright Palace'). These used to sell for $1000 per single growth, but have been reduced to $125 per growth. This cultivar is known for producing a new, near white, almost transparent leaf. Truly spectacular... I grow 30 different cultivars at the moment . It's cool to see so much variation in one species. Just like dogs, humans, etc. Just so you guys know I don't play around, that pot it's in was imported from the Aichi prefecture in Japan by my friend. Only a handful of people make these pots and they are damn good artisans. They should be national treasures. Hand painted, signed, and has a 24K gold rim on it. Bad to the bone! This pot was $125, but others usually go for around $250.



Swooped up DSMLink V3 lite! Same username on the ECM forum. I have never seen engine management in-person, so it's cool to see all the diagnostics and tuning options. Blows my mind...

Replaced both front axles with GSP axles. Advance fucked up and one of them didn't have an ABS ring. I had to have the driver side pressed into the intermediate shaft at Archer. They told me from racing experience that the '91 ABS system is "junk" and that pumping is much better. I won't be winter driving, so I will unplug the ABS computer.

Decided to go with a 2G MAF and Dejon 2G air intake pipe with BOV recirc nipple. No charcoal canister nipple or valve cover vent nipple when I ordered it. I am venting the CC line to the ground and added my own valve cover vent barb fitting in an orientation that is convenient. Dejon FAQs say that venting the CC is fine and will not affect drivability. The stock air can setup uses a boost control solenoid vacuum nipple. I will be using a GReddy Profec-B Spec II boost controller, so I didn't have to make a nipple on the Dejon. Air filter is K&N FIPK 2G with MAF adapter. That sucker is huge!

Since I am using the Dejon, I got a "Blingin' Tray" and Odyssey PC925 battery. With the Drop Engineering mounts except for the front (Torque Solution), the trans motor mount does not have a mounting for the air can like the Galant one does. Had to fab up a bracket because the tray requires the mounting point on the Galant trans motor mount.

Janky BOV hose is just temporary. Going to remove the stickers too and keep it clean.



I took the Onsoku ebay cam gears off and replaced with Fidanzas. The stock gear that sheared the pin off the old head was totally fucked. The pin was holding on for dear life! That's why I decided to replace with blinging ones that could be adjusted later on. Also got ARP cam gear bolts to hold those suckers down. Timing belt had a groove because some STM jabroni did not label the short bolts in the "kit". They were all the same damn size. Replaced the gates with a new GReddy unit. It cost a little more, but it is very high quality from what I can tell. Replaced the bolts and no groove. Had to get another Zaklee cover too.






Got the Evo 8 560's put in. Boost leak revealed that one of the seals was bad. Replaced all the seals with a Fuel Injector Clinic complete seal kit. Also replaced all the pintle caps, because when I bought mine from a member, one of them was missing. Can't just buy one, so why not do them all up?

Ordered the rest of the rear badges except that DOHC badge, which is NLA. JNZ Tuning is the shit. They have the MMC and matching diamonds badges too.

Spent some time reading on VFAQ about the PCV system, so I can keep blow-by to a minimum. It was lined all over my stock intake snorkel. I have made my catch can setup exactly like the ideal "Improved Factory Setup" for street and part-time track. VFAQ PCV System The cans are sealed Boomba Racing units with a clear window for visibility and 3/8". Instead of using the US plastics check valve, I decided to get a Boomba Racing 3/8" check valve to tie in the whole setup.


PCV hose to catch can to check valve to intake manifold.



Check valve.



Valve cover vent to catch can to air intake pipe. Mounted on the cruise box for now.



Valve Cover Vent nipple



Got a new NSA alternator from Nate Crisman. It was mint and apparently was only mocked on. Had a hard time getting tension right. It squeals and my friend thinks we may have fried it. Need to figure that out still.



Replaced my stock exhaust manifold with a new OEM Evo III manifold. Decided against the FP because I wanted to stay OEM and keep the heat shield. Also replaced the already new exhaust manifold gasket with the 4-layer version. I want to coat the heat shield black on top, but leave it normal underneath, so that it doesn't absorb too much heat.



Took my car to Archer Racing in October to hopefully get some work done. They revealed a massive boost leak through the radiator and J-pipe. Brought the car home to work on it some more. Got a boost leak tester too. Didn't torque down the ARP's hard enough (torqued twice now). I accidentally did it to factory stud specs. Made extra sure to do the proper sequence and in the proper steps. The j-pipe gasket was new, but the powdercoater coated the gasket surface. They smoked too much meth when doing my stuff. Cleaned the surface up and sealed with Right Stuff. No more radiator bubbles, injector leaks, or j-pipe leaks.


Car was last idling around 1500-1700. Still most be leaking somewhere bad. I'm not letting it idle for very long. The BOV recirc hose is pretty janky right now until I man up and get the ETS kit. Right now the BOV in the stock location is not in the ideal spot to have a proper hose to connect to the recirc tube. That is why you see that janky hose above. Got a GReddy RS BOV to replace the 1G BOV later on once I get a setup with a proper flange in the ideal location to recirc back into the intake.


So I think something is off. The crank mark is in the right spot, but the marks on the cam gears are off. Notice how the pins are lined, but the degree marks aren't at the top. Are my teeth not zeroed out?





Since Spring has started, it is time to get my car worked on and broken in. Still only 3-4 miles on the new motor. The car needs to be brought up to Archer to have the timing re-done and to have them look over the work done. The power steering still leaks bad at the rack, so I think the rear-wheel steering will need to be capped off. Later on I plan on getting the active toe elimination. Also will have them install an AEM wideband and Failsafe gauge which also monitors boost.

Still have plans for a 4-bolt rear-end, suspension, and brakes.


Ended up with my brother's wheels since he needed the money more. He was going to put them on his black '03 EP3 Si, but never did. They are BNIB. For $1300 with Rays extended duralumin lug nuts anodized blue, I got a great deal considering they were $450/each plus the $200 lug nuts. Best to go to family then some other JDM fanboy . They make them in 4x114.3 too, but these were just too good to pass up. 5-lug swap time. Probably going to be hard for me to figure out, but I'll have help. Will have to get a weight posted later. I want to get some center caps for these as well. The stock wheels have kind of the same them going. I think the chrome trim on the car with the polished lips will flow nicely. Clean, simple, awesome.














Edited by minneSNOWta (04/03/13 02:55 PM)

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

GSX_TC
295hp 35r BR4
550/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1116565 posted 04/03/13 08:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
my dream rims!! ive always wanted SSR's & even the Work Meister S1's Dammmit haha



JZX90 Toyota Mark II Tourer V Twin Turbskie "Laura"
90 Nissan Skyline GTR "Tanya"
90 Eclipse GST "Kerri"
91 Galant VR4 "Samara" 550<

Posts: 3700 | From: Houston, Texas | Member Since: 04/07/11 | IP:
(98.194.148.131) | Report this post to a Moderator

kama1
Member +
0000/0000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1116585 posted 04/03/13 11:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Very nice wheels there sir!



kama1autobody
E39A addict click

93 vr4 silver
92 vr4 black
91 gti black
90 amg blue

Posts: 277 | From: q.c. philippines | Member Since: 05/13/07 | IP: (182.18.208.3) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1119665 posted 04/23/13 04:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Mike - Get the S1's foo!

kama1 - Thanks a lot man. Off topic, but I'm Vietnamese. Got much love for Pinoy. Check out the orchids in your country. So many nice ones and I even grow a few natives myself. Also, make sure you snorkel and check out your country's exotic reefs. Way too lucky my friend. I like to keep tropical stuff in order to bring another part of the world closer to me. I've had Pinoy eggrolls before and they were pretty good. They can hold a candle to Vietnamese ones.


Car is at Archer Racing now. They will get my car up to temp, check timing, boost leak test, and go from there. Got other things needed to be addressed like a missing bolt for the driver's front control arm, cross-threaded bolt on north/south support bar, oil return line leak, cap rear-steering lines, and maybe parking brake adjustment. Hopefully all goes well, but you never know with my luck.



#1899/2000 - W09 A71 (1/111)

Build Thread

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

dc_style
Member ++
808/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1119672 posted 04/23/13 05:02 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
always good seeing a local minnesotan! sick wheels!

Posts: 534 | From: Saint Paul, MN | Member Since: 09/04/03 | IP: (198.203.177.177) | Report this post to a Moderator

minneSNOWta
Member +
1899/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1119732 posted 04/23/13 11:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sup DC? I believe your bro, Chim, played around my car back when it was owned by Charlie something. Just curious, what nationality are you guys? We need to get the MN guys like Nartanian, xaisoboun, OEMGeoff, abc123, John with the crazy car, and maybe jcgalntvr4-244 (I think he said he has family in Maplewood) together some time. Wisconsin has a good crew too. I go back home to Eagan pretty often, but haven't made it back to the cities in the G since it left Blaine.



#1899/2000 - W09 A71 (1/111)

Build Thread

Posts: 343 | From: Duluth, MN | Member Since: 05/14/11 | IP: (75.134.142.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

kama1
Member +
0000/0000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1119758 posted 04/24/13 08:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Sad to say i havent been near orchids for soo long.my mom used to have them all over our garden.
I miss being near the water,manila just sucks the life out of you.
Check out bolinao if ever your here.



kama1autobody
E39A addict click

93 vr4 silver
92 vr4 black
91 gti black
90 amg blue

Posts: 277 | From: q.c. philippines | Member Since: 05/13/07 | IP: (182.18.208.6) | Report this post to a Moderator


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