which one do u think is better??

The top is a dual-runner design. You'll need an rpm activated switch to control it and it's good for a few hundred rpm spool which means you pick up about 30ft-lbs over the spool region. It's good for a small to medium sized turbo where you're looking to maximize the size of your power-band. The bottom is just an EH 1g manifold so it's basically the same as a standard 1G manifold but with slightly better top-end flow. It's probably not gonna net you anything unless you're looking at a huge turbo in which case you may as well get a serious manifold.

My $0.02

It actually make up towards 50 ft lbs more and do a search for it with my name and I did a write up how to build a load based controller with junkyard solenoids and parts for 5 bucks.

I'm running the dual runner manifold and I can tell you that it's the best manifold to run with a stock turbo. Super fast spool up, noticeably more torque below 4K, and a little bit better MPG are three advantages I've seen.

Do some research and you can find some dyno charts that show how much difference we are talking. Yes you will need to set it up, but like Curtis said, it's easy and cheap to do.

Here's my dyno comparison... click

It looks like I picked up 40 ft-lbs from 2500 to 4200 rpm. But, that run was also a little better after the switch so normalizing for heat-soak I call it 30 ft-lbs conservatively. We've debated the boost vs. rpm activation before but I still think that switching at 4100rpm regardless of boost is the way to do it. That's the way Mitsu designed the manifold to work. You used to be able to get a keydiver chip to do this but since he's shut down shop you'll need either a tuning solution (tunerpro, jackel, ECMLink, etc.) or a separate controller. Summit racing makes a tunable rpm switch for about $40 that should do the trick... it takes a signal from the tach. wire on the igntion coil and then has an adjustment nob to turn on/off at a fixed rpm value.