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innovate lc-1 wideband installation

dsm10o0

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Joined
Jun 16, 2010
Messages
680
Location
San Jose CA
You have to drill a new hole atleast 2 feet i think away front the original o2. So yeah, you will need to have a bung welded.
 

OMFGeofffff

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May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
There's a huge controversy whether it's bad or not to run it in the stock o2 location. If I had a choice I would of kept my stock o2 but I didn't want to get a bung welded to my downpipe so I ran it in stock location.
 

vegeta1170

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Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Messages
338
Location
syracuse, ut
But with the LC-1 you don't need the stock o2 sensor, I thought. You should be able to hook up the yellow or brown to the ecu.
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
It will work in the stock 02 sensor spot? and is it the front or rear o2 sensor

What's the reasoning because it won't get correct reading when's its that close to the turbine housing??
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
we only have one o2
 

OMFGeofffff

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May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
Quoting yeti:
It will work in the stock 02 sensor spot? and is it the front or rear o2 sensor

What's the reasoning because it won't get correct reading when's its that close to the turbine housing??




Usually you get a more accurate reading closer to the engine but people say it burns out the sensor faster. Yes it fits in the stock location and we only have the front.
 

moduleunknown

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Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
193
Location
Elk Grove, CA
As already mentioned, the lc-1 can be installed in the stock location and configured to simulate a narrowband signal to the ECU as well as supply wideband output to a gauge and or another sensor input to tie into dsmlink.

I've never done it as it's more work to setup. The easier route in my opinion is to leave the front sensor alone to do it's thing and install the wideband o2 sensor further down stream. On my 2g I installed It in the second o2 sensor location post cat and didn't have any issues. On the evo I welded the supplied bung to the end of the downpipe pre cat. No problems. Every dyno I've ever been to stuffs a sensor in the downpipe... I don't think location matters.

I've never been concerned with sensor accuracy due to placement (never seen an issue installed in any of the above mentioned locations). As long as there's a consistent reading to use, you'll be fine. Fix any exhaust leaks too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
Last edited:

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
So there is a second o2 sensor location but we don't utilize it?

And if there's no problem(other than the sensor going, and o2 sensor CEL)
I'll be putting it in my 02 sensors spot since I don't know any welders.

What's a good price for someone to show me how to install it. (Wires and pin # on the ecu)
Or is it so easy that it shouldn't even be priced?
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
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Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
We have 1 O2 sensor, 2g dsms have two.
 

citymunky

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Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I have mine in the stock location. and it is wired to my ECU. My old o2 sensor is in the trash.
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
in my opinion, I wouldnt put it in the stock location, Id rather have my wideband last a little bit longer......
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
My 02 sensors not working so I am gonna use the wideband as a replacement.

How hard is it to solder the wires to the ecu and to the ground and ignition points.

Anyone got a play by play with pics or without.

My only other option is to pay some one 150 to install it they already quoted it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 
Last edited:

OMFGeofffff

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Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
It's easy. Grab a multimeter or testlight to find a 12v switched source. What gauge do you have?


a. Red 12V supply (Ignition harness?)
b. Blue Heater Ground (Solder to a ring terminal and put it on the ecu case mounting bolt)
c. White System Ground (Solder to a ring terminal and put it on the ecu case mounting bolt)
d. Yellow Analog out 1 (Cut wire coming from Pin #4 and solder to it)
e. Brown Analog out 2 (Connect to Gauge analog input)
f. Black Calibration wire (Solder to a ring terminal and put it on the ecu case mounting bolt)
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
"Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
minimum fuse size of 5A."

how do i know its fused with a fuse size of 5a?
THATS CONFUSING ME.
also where does the sitch and the led come into play?
and do i follow all connections on the gauges wiring harness to the lc1s wiring harness.

and you made it A LOT easier then this manual does i really appreciate it.

AND i have the blue gauge
 

OMFGeofffff

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Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
It's telling you to put your own inline fuse in. When I did mine I didn't bother with it. It's for extra precaution so you don't fry your sh*t. The switch and LED is for free air calibration. Basically you take a wire from the push button and the red wire from the led and connect them to the black wire of the lc-1. Then take the two remaining wires and solder them to that ring terminal. And yea I would connect the gauge 12v switched to the same source as the lc-1 as well as the gauge ground to the lc-1 ground. Then there should be a blue wire that you connect to the brown wire on the lc-1.
 

OMFGeofffff

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Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
I totally forgot to mention...if you're tuning with v3 I *think* you have to reprogram the analog 2 output to what ecmlink will read using lmprogrammer and then enable narrowband simulation inside of v3.
 
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