Ok where to begin I guess first is wow the sushi was fabtabulos. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Ok now to VGT's
Only a few people have put these on gas engines of the 4 cylinder size I've found. Aero (his sign on name) on the homemade turbo site and the dsm sites and dany250r has as well. His is the 1G on you tube with the sick sounding turbo scream that sounds like a turbine engine on a fighter jet. Aero say ransient responce in 4th gear go from full vacuum to +15psi in .9 seconds so instantaneous boost is possible
These aren't for the non fabricators because its going to be alot to make one work. I have to use one of these its just in me to do it. There large 65 lb shipping weight large. This will require not only the lose of your AC on a galant but moving the radiator forward and more than likely a custom header out of schedule 40 not sch 10 and some type of support structure under the turbo. Aero made an adapter using a 2G manifold on his and is running a 2.3 but with stock head, cams and intake and is getting silly spool up like GT28 time out of a huge frame turbo which without the vgt would never be possible. Not dogging on there setups but they used a 14b actuator to control the disk that houses the vanes. In my opinion this is the wrong answer and a bandaid to make it work so so. If you stop the action and think about whats going on you can realize why.
Lets do drag racing.
Pull to the line candles drop and you go. When you first release the clutch and hit the gas the engine is at vacuum then goes to boost fast because of the load on the system. This part is fine except you can't limit the amount of movement of the vanes. Closed is .14 and open is 1.85 ar. When you launch depending on weight of car and all other mods you may want a max of .82 or .63 in first but with an actuator your going to see 7psi of boost then the vanes are going to 1.85 almost instantly, this will slow the spool time dramatically. Then as you shift a stick car your engine sees a few milliseconds of vacuum which is going to slam the actuator and vanes to .14 and over speed the wheel. It needs to be limited to lets say .48 on the 1/2 shift. Then as you go up in gears you'll bring up the closed ar and open up the full open so the monster can flow. Have to remember the compressor map on the He351ve goes up to 4.2 bar and is really really wide and thick. Total area of the full efficiency is about 5 or 6 times the area of a GT35r so when done correctly will flow like a GT40/42 and spool like a 28. These have cast ti compressors and and can take the abuse and I'm guessing the compressor ar is up in the .80 to .90 range. So fourth gear will come on with all the supporting mods like a freight train. I really believe that with the correct fuel and supporting mods this thing could put a VR4 in the high 9's low 10 rather easily after the controller is sorted out. Have to remember these flow up at around 70 to 75 lbs a minute.
Now for more controller info.
When done you need to have a start up and shut down sweep like the factory did but I think even more since these coked up on a diesel. Maybe as the key is turned the controller tells the vanes to open close 5 or 8 times. Then at shutdown the controller needs to sweep back and forth the same after the wheel stops spinning. Not hard to know because these have a built in rpm sensor from the factory.
As for driving I'm thinking this needs to be not only a rpm but a load based system. Lots of yes /no fuzzy logic intel. Everyones car is going to be different. From wastegates to injectors and flow characteristics of the heads etc. So everyone should have full control and have different buttons for different maps you set up like an afc bar graph and be done from a 500 rpm to 12K in hundred increments. One map for gas mileage 1.0 to 1.85 only, one for road racing short track, road racing long track, drag racing, in town driving, street racing from a kick. Thats where 800 hp cars run 13.5's in the 1/4 smoking all 4's /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif List can go on and on and altitude /mtn driving will effect this as well so this needs to be a fluid system and easily adaptable not just a straight up heres what you get controller.
I haven't read up on these in a while but have watched a few you tube video's on the subject and know megasquirt now has a version with a can bus. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Need to call them to see whats up. If it comes that our resources around here can't make it happen I may sell my mega squirt and get a new one and get this one with 8 injector drivers. Right now I have 4 1250's and a bunch of methanol nozzles to play with and really don't think that will do this turbo and my set-up justice at above 7K and boost past 30psi.
For you guys that are interested in this keep the links and discussion going and I'm sure we can make this happen. I'm no spark chaser and never claimed to be but I've spent countless hours over the last few years thinking about what and when the thing needs to change placement and why but never liked electronic stuff that's what work orders are for. You see a problem and pass the buck to someone that is school trained for it. The link above is what I mean those guys are so talking above my head on some of the stuff.
Another few things I've thought of that would be cool to incorporate is a knock sensor if you see marginal knock it will open up larger to lower temps and releave back pressure while in lower gears, still haven't thought that all the way out.
micro switch halo ring around the shifter so the controller knows what gear your in.
With the halo ring it could be set up to go full open on a missed shift also could be set up for missed shifts turns off other things like nitrous solenoids etc.
Like I said understand what needs to happen but just not an electrician.
Ok to much sushi have to go.
But first listen to this
click me
And just found this
click me for a vr4 WITH ONE OF THESE! Who is this guy