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Tell me about clutchnet clutches, or a light pedal pressure clutch for 14b power

gtluke

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Sep 16, 2001
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dirty jersey
My clutch broke on the way home from work today. Lame, I just did a clutch on the 2.5RS this weekend. ARG
I'm on 14b power, and will probably be forever. I don't need anything crazy.
I can't tolerate the ACT 2600, I put 100k miles on my car with one, I know all about them, and they destroy my back. I have a bunch of slipped discs in my back and I just can't take it.
I've had a Centerforce DF setup in there for a few years now and I LOVE it, feels freakin awesome, holds exactly how I want. Doesn't hold up to drag racing but whatever, I don't do that anyway.
Should I just get another Centerforce? I like the idea of these clutchnet clutches but holy crap the options on their site are ridiculous.
Not to mention they have different part numbers for a gvr4 street disc and a eagle talon street disc, which is $10 cheaper too... wtf?
Any opinions? I'd like to order one tonight in hopes of getting it by the weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Hopefully it's just a broken disc, on the way home the trans stopped shifting.
Clutch won't fully disengage and it bangs sometimes when the clutch is down. I thought someone rearended me it hit so hard. Though I can feel it "grab" where it should but I can feel the car lurch forward sometimes when the clutch is down. And then there is that banging thing...
The pedal feels totally fine, slips totally fine and holds fine. Trans is really stiff and it tries to move the car in violent ways, once in a while

-Luke
 

gtluke

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1066729531_Qvatn-XL.jpg
 
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belize1334

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Nov 18, 2003
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3,316
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Bozeman, MT
I went with clutchnet because of the spring-cage design. My act looked alot like your pic and I didn't want to have it happen again. I got the Red 2x pp with sprung 6-puck. While the 6-puck isn't as bad as I'd expected, I do wish that I'd gotten a full-face disk because I have to concentrate on my driving to keep it from chattering. The 2x is SUPPOSEDLY 60% stiffer than stock which puts it at ~2600 lbs. I'm not sure I believe it because the pedal is lighter than my old act 2100. They do offer an organic disk but I'm not sure how it will hold up compared to the friction compound you get with ACTs.
 

gtluke

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Interesting.
I'm thinking maybe I can just run a sprung 6-puck with the CF pressure plate and it'll be similar to what I had. The CF is organic on one side and something else on the other, blocks spaced apart like the kevlar disks are. It held great for me, just broke with only like 20k miles on it. Lame...
I have an aluminum fidanza flywheel so I'm not sure if that helps or hurts the chatter.
 

G

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Feb 24, 2004
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zompton
For peace of mind and oe reliability and feel all you need is a exedy stage 1 > click
 

gtluke

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It's got those rubber things in place or springs, what was destroyed on my clutch. All 4 of them were destroyed, just one popped out.
 

G

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? You talking about the torsion springs?
 

gtluke

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Yeah, but the rubber ones. They were completely chewed up in my disk, looks exactly like the center of that exedy
 

G

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click

Problem 3, Cause 1 and Cause 3. Huh? Stage 1 uses all torsion springs no rubber. >> click
 
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gtluke

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The picture on their site shows rubber, and it's rated for 230ft/lbs, doesn't sound like enough to me.
 

G

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"Product Image May Not Be Vehicle Specific" I'm pretty sure they are all metal. Also you said 14b making how much power?
 

gtluke

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dunno, whatever like 18psi is.
runs mid 12's at about 108, but that was with a act2600, the CF wouldn't take that kind of launch, but I was okay with that.
 

G

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The stage 1 is 200~350 lb-ft torque. A few vids >> click
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
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Near Seattle, Washington
I wont run a sprung hub anymore because of what is pictured above. I think i'm just really hard on clutch discs. I slip them ABSOLUTELY as little as POSSIBLE. It seems sprung hubs do not appreciate this behaviour.
 

NateCrisman

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Nov 22, 2008
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Blairstown, NJ
a 14b pushed hard should have no trouble making nearly 350ftlb of torque with a big boost spike on good fuel. At only 18psi and pump gasoline it could still make nearly 300ftlb. Still need a decent clutch otherwise your just going to be changing it again soon.

I say swap the clutch for a converter since your not racing the car anyway and are more concerned with city driving and everyday reliability than performance. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 
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broxma

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Nov 16, 2009
Messages
911
Location
San Antonio Tx
I just had my Ebay clutch pop a spring. The spring got stuck between the flywheel and the disc and the car wouldn't release out of gear. It basically locked the transmission in "Go".

I bought a new Spec Stage 3 415 trq rated clutch for 308.00 shipped. And just FYI, Ebay was not the cheapest place to get it by a good amount. It is still sprung but I have not heard anything bad about Spec clutches. It won't hold up to what I expect my final numbers to be but until I switch to E-85, get my Daily Driver and get it on the dyno, it will be more than fine.

/brox
 

cheekychimp

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Apr 19, 2004
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East Sussex, U.K.
Luke,

When I was looking for a clutch to hold an Evo III 16G, without ridiculous pedal pressure, one combo that came highly recommended was a Southbend Kevlar Disk mated to a Centre Force Dual Friction PP. One of our members (twicks69 I think is his screen name) is a south bend dealer and sent me this information:-

Quote:

Paul, thanks for the questions!

Yeah, I usually spend most of my time on the DSM forums even though I also own a GVR4 and am on www.galantvr4.org as well.

As for the TZ-series full-face kevlar sprung-hub clutch disk is a fantastic clutch disk that is extremely streetable and can easily handle your power levels and last a long time.

Concerning the Centerforce pressure plate, I am unsure if it will work with the SBC clutch properly, as I have never used one of their pressure plates with a SBC clutch.

I do recommend the South Bend Clutch SS-Series pressure plate with the TZ-Series clutch disk as it can handle around 500TQ and has the pedal feel of a stock clutch (or slightly higher than stock).

Funny enough, I am a distributor for South Bend Clutch now for my business -- TMZ Performance -- www.tmzperformance.com -- and have been selling these clutches since last year with excellent results from all the customer applications.

You can find this specific clutch for sale on my website at:

Quoted from the website: click

"South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ-Series Kevlar Clutch Assemblies for the1G and 2G AWD DSM:
SPECIAL PRICE! $435.00 SHIPPED (USA Orders)"

-----The price shipped to Hong Kong would be $491.00, as the cost of international shipping is higher. Since the international shipping charges aren't listed on the website, you would need to directly send payment to [email protected] via Paypal if you decided to purchase an entire clutch.

If you are interested only in the SBC TZ-Series kevlar clutch disk, it would be $234.00 shipped internationally.

Thanks and good luck with your GVR4!

Tim Zimmer
TMZ Performance, LLC.
www.tmzperformance.com





As you can see he doesn't advocate using a south bend disk with a non south bend PP but as a south bend dealer, I wouldn't expect him to. Other members stated that combo works well. Anyway just throwing this out there. I may well get a CFDF setup for the stock car a bit later and buy a south bend disk ready to throw in when the CF disk gives up.
 
Last edited:

G

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Southbend buys clutch discs from exedy.
 

cheekychimp

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East Sussex, U.K.
So do you know what the Exedy part no. For the TZ-series Kevlar clutch disk is G?
 

thecman02

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Nov 3, 2007
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917
Location
Kalamazoo,MI
G they only buy the center section/hub. The friction material is there own. I'm running a SS-OFE southbend setup and I have to stay it drives and shifts like a dream.
 
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