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front axle/cv joint


Blown1
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 930971 posted 09/14/10 08:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey guys just wondering if I can just change the driver side cv joint(its leaking)
or do I need to replace the entire axle? It doesnt make any noise or anything just
leaking a little from the boot...Thanks

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boostedinaz
Fatty McButterpants
1101/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 930974 posted 09/14/10 09:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You can change just the boot if it's torn. Make sure to get a good quality factory style boot though. Not sure if you have them or not but in AZ we have a place called BAP Import Parts. They have the factory style boot with the factory style clamp. I think they are only 15.00 a piece and come with a huge packet of grease. To take them aparts you will need to remove a C clpi so it helps to have the correct pliers for them.



Michael
The rebuild of 1101

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
62/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931005 posted 09/14/10 10:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just did all four of my fronts. Factory boots are a fortune, so I got mine from rockauto. I also didn't use the grease that came with them. I bought a couple tubes of synthetic. The clamps that came with them didn't require any special tools, just some needle nose pliers, tin snips, and c clip pliers. There's a vfaq for it. Read up and get to it!



62/2k

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Blown1
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931014 posted 09/14/10 10:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok thanks fellas I will give it a shot this weekend

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solidviper89
Patty Purex
0425/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931018 posted 09/14/10 10:44 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is it leaking tranny juice?



Motivational Poster poster.

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boostedinaz
Fatty McButterpants
1101/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931030 posted 09/14/10 11:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Blown1:

Ok thanks fellas I will give it a shot this weekend




Almost forgot, get LOTS of brake cleaner and towels. All that old grease will make a giant mess.



Michael
The rebuild of 1101

Posts: 4085 | From: Scottsdale, AZ | Member Since: 04/20/06 | IP: (167.80.246.204) | Report this post to a Moderator

Wizardawd
Senior Member
598/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931035 posted 09/14/10 11:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would rather change the whole axle. You have to pull it out anyways, and 2 boots will cost you near $40. A new axle from Advance Auto Parts is about $50 and has a lifetime warranty.

Less time, all new, warranty, for nearly the same cash. Sounds like a no brainer to me.

Wiz



598/1000 Nile Black
12/2000 Nile Black
1995 Montero SR
1997 Talon Tsi AWD Auto

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524of1000
Crossed Member
524/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931212 posted 09/14/10 07:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^ +1



America was raised on speed. Hot, Nasty, Bad ass speed. - Eleanore Roosevelt, 1936

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14u2nV
Resident Pedobear


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931221 posted 09/14/10 08:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Is driver side only $50ish? Passenger is, but I would think driver is more



~Kenneth Brian
"Censorship offends me" ~Author Unknown


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SouthCaliVR4
Gas Analyzer
825/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931236 posted 09/14/10 08:44 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You're thinking it comes with the jack-shaft, It does not. Though you will have to remove the whole deal to separate the two.



How do you make a small fortune racing? Start with a very large one!!!

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Whoodoo
buff guys = good time but my dream is to fondle 1051
62/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931318 posted 09/15/10 12:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I doubt you'll be able to get the whole drivers side cheap. Even if you could get just the outside shaft, you would still need to replace the inner boot. Like I said, rockauto worked well for me. If you have c clip pliers, the job should only take you a few hours at the most from jacking up the car to getting it on the ground again.

Procedure from start to finish:
1) jack up front of car and remove driver's side wheel
2) take cotter pin out from castle nut
3) put wheel back on and lower car
4) using 32 mm socket and big ass breaker bar, break axle nut loose
5) jack up car and remove wheel
6) back castle nut out enough so that it comes off the axle by a few threads
7) locate BFH and give the top of the castle nut a solid punch to break the axle free of the knuckle (I used a sledge hammer like a pendulum)
8) unbolt knuckle from strut and remove wheel nut all the way
9) unbolt the middle axle's carrier bearing (2 14mm nuts)
10) wiggle the knuckle around until you get the axle out
11) cut off old boots
12) clean the old grease out
13) use c clip pliers on the tripod bearing side so you can get the new boots on
14) slide on BOTH the new inner and outer boots as well as both of the smaller band clamps (the bigger ones can go on whenever)
15) repack with gooey new grease (using a grease gun makes this easier)
16) slide new boots onto the cups and tighten the band clamps (depending on the kind of clamps you get, you may need special pliers, i didn't need them)
17) put the axle back in the tranny
18) get the spline side back in the knuckle
19) replace middle axle carrier bolts
20) bolt the knuckle back up to the strut
21) put the wheel on and lower the car
22) get wheel nut back on and torque it down (make sure you can see a hole for the cotter pin to go through)
23) lift car to take wheel off
24) put the cotter pin back in
25) get the wheel back on for the last time and put it on the ground
26) go have a beer, you deserve it


So you see; 26 easy steps, all of which you can do on your own. For those that are interested, I got the Beck/Arnley brand boots from rockauto and they had band clamps that didn't need any special tools. Also, if you are only doing the outside boot, you don't have to take the axle out, but its a lot easier to work with on a bench.



62/2k

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Wizardawd
Senior Member
598/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931326 posted 09/15/10 12:39 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You're right, brand new is $70 with lifetime. And yes you have to separate it from the intermediate shaft, but that take 10 seconds.

click

Wiz



598/1000 Nile Black
12/2000 Nile Black
1995 Montero SR
1997 Talon Tsi AWD Auto

Posts: 1315 | From: Aberdeen, SD | Member Since: 08/08/07 | IP: (24.220.136.32) | Report this post to a Moderator

Blown1
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931404 posted 09/15/10 09:44 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting solidviper89:

Is it leaking tranny juice?



no tranny juice just started squeezing out a little grease so the
end that goes into the tranny is fine just the cv joint and lower
ball joint seems shot now I know why it pulls to the left a bit

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Blown1
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931408 posted 09/15/10 09:57 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Wizardawd:

I would rather change the whole axle. You have to pull it out anyways, and 2 boots will cost you near $40. A new axle from Advance Auto Parts is about $50 and has a lifetime warranty.

Less time, all new, warranty, for nearly the same cash. Sounds like a no brainer to me.

Wiz [/quote
I like saving money like anybody else but there are some things I just rather get oem.
I learned that lesson when I got after market axles for my accord had the job done and
2 Weeks later the freaking thing was making noise again. So I bought the factory axles
from Honda did the job again and haven't had a problem since btw my Honda is slammed on
coil overs and has 250k so I am little hesitant to buy non oem axles again kind of like
buying non Mitsubishi oem pvc valves just do not work lol. I see your point though just
have no trust in aftermarket axles much like aftermarket alternators and starters yea they
come with a lifetime warranty but what good is that when you have to do the job 3 or 4 times
same goes for O2 sensors. Guess there are a few things that you should just get from Satan.
Are the ones from Rock auto genuine oem or rebuilds? Thanks for the input guys.

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 931578 posted 09/15/10 04:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I bought each side front axle YEARS ago for a dsm. I just go to vato zone any time i need an axle, and it's free.99

If you plan to have one of these cars for a long time, or indefinitely, it's a solid investment.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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Blown1
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 934187 posted 09/24/10 11:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
So rather than play around with rebuilding the axle or buying one from vato
zone. I managed to get a nice used one from my buddy who installed it along with
a lower ball joint(pita) but she runs straight again now on to the next series
of never ending fixes or problems lol why didn't I just get an EVOIX????????


Edited by Blown1 (09/27/10 04:47 PM)

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