I can get a sheet of 4x8' white 1/4" aluma-lite for $88 locally. If we are going to add rear down force with a wing maybe we should talk about a quick front splitter? Shouldn't be too complicated. Here are some rules of thumb.

1. It cannot mount to the front fascia. You should be able to remove the bumper cover and leave the splitter on

2. it should be at least 3" from the lip of the fascia and not follow the lines of the bumper. think semi-circle

3. it should be removable for transit driving. think clevis pin mounts

4. low cost quick build hardware store turnbuckles

5. it can be lower then the bottom of the factory bumper. think small filler panel to close up the gap

You've pretty much got the right idea - bring it back to the front axles or farther if you can. Clevis pins with cotter pins to the subframe is probably the way to go. Make sure they are a good fit and won't rattle though.

You shouldn't need a full semicircle, but definitely generously rounded corners. If you're going to use cheapie turnbuckles, make sure they're sufficiently beefy (maybe 3/8-1/2" or so). You might also consider hardware store spherical rod-ends (less then $10 each) if you can find them (I've seen them at OSH and other hardware stores). That way you can use removable pins there as well. The attachment would be the turnbuckle with threaded rod out either end, and the rod ends screwed on - don't forget to use locknuts (double jam nuts or nylock type would be even better). Finding parts for the left hand thread side might be annoying, but still possible. Try McMaster Carr online if you can't find them locally.

Use two, and attach them to a strong point on the front frame on either side of the intercooler (maybe up to the bumper mount boxes). You might need to notch the bumper to make them clear - the closer you can attach them to the front of the splitter the better.

Lastly, make sure to use backing plates on attachments to the splitter

To fill the gap between the splitter and the bumper, you can use garage door bottom strip (The soft, deformable EPDE type might work better in this case, since you'll be adjusting it)

I picked up a full sheet of alumalite this afternoon. It was $90 for a 4' x 8' and they cut 2' feet off so it would fit in my truck. Its only 1/4" thick but man is it strong. With the right bracing this is going to make a tuff and light splitter.

Your welcome tell me how it works and post pics up ive been wanting to do this to my car.

I started the splitter last night. I found some cheap turnbuckles at the local hardware store that look promising. They were less then $3 each. The left hand thread jamb nut was 43 cents on top of that so I hope they work. The plan is to weld a washer on each side of the eye bolt and drill it for clevis pin. I am also going to build a frame for it out of 1" aluminum tubing with 4 little legs through which I will run a 1/2' bolt to screw into a nut that I will weld onto the front cross member and radiator support. Then 4 turnbuckles to hold the front where I want it and to provide some adjustment to the pitch. The splitter is going to be at the same level as the two braces that run under the engine/transmission which will put it a couple of inches lower then the bottom of the fascia. That means I am going to have to come up with some sort of filler strip to cover the gap. I was thinking a cut section of the plastic lawn edging?

Looks promising!

For the edging, look for the corner protectors from a Lowe's/Home Depot. It what is used in a home to protect commonly hit corners of the wall in your home.

I got a bunch of spherical rod ends and shafts from a local shop here that does go-carts, etc and they were pretty cheap. I've also seen low priced rod ends at hardware stores in the trailer/marine section.

Wiz

I worked on getting the splitter mocked up a bit so I could get an eye on the ground clearence. My first try was 4" at the lip but that just didn't seem to be enough. Under hard braking I could see this thing torn off on a rumble strip. So I moved it up to about 5.5" which put it just a hint higher then my down pipe. I also worked on the turnbuckles and the mounts which turned out to be kind of a pain. I am still not happy with the mounts but what I have will work. Now I just have to work on making them look less Home Depot.

Tomorrow I will try to finish up the aluminum frame that holds the splitter. Here are some pictures.

I've thought about doing this for literally years, so I am excited to see it. Looks good so far though!

I finished up the frame/skeleton and let me tell you welding that thin ass 1" square aluminum tubing is a pain. I am still trying to figure out what I'm going to use to fill the gap between the splitter and the fascia. I took a look at some lawn edging and it just seemed to flimsy? Maybe they sell thicker stuff?

Anyway, its late here are some more pictures.

nice. Lets see how it looks when it is finished

oh and I want one

Quoting GreenGSX:
I am still trying to figure out what I'm going to use to fill the gap between the splitter and the fascia. I took a look at some lawn edging and it just seemed to flimsy? Maybe they sell thicker stuff?



Check out this stuff. It's 1/8" plastic from Coleman Racing Supply. We used it for radiator ducting as it would flex during impact and prevent the radiator from getting damaged. I'm sure it would work well in your application as it's far more sturdy than garden edging and priced very cheaply. It'd probably cost more to ship it. I forget what the dimensions were of the roll but I want to say it was around 18"-24" wide. You could call and find out I'm sure.

Black plastic.
White plastic.

Thats not a wing... This IS a wing




World-Racing

It would be tedious for sure but you could get some c channel aluminum at lowes and use the 1 inch wide section as the front and cut small slits in the 1/2 inch sections and bend /roll to contour then when done weld the slits and machine smooth and rivet or tack weld to the frame work.

It turns out I had the filler material already in the garage. I just cut down a couple of strips of alumalite and then made relief cuts so it would bend. Worked out pretty well and it should be plenty strong.






































Its late and its been a long day out in the garage. I'm happy with it so far but seeing any sort of aero on a VR-4 going to take some getting used to. I made the splitter big because if I need it to be smaller that's easy. Right now it has 4" of ground clearance and the lip sticks out about 5" from the bottom of the air dam. I am not sure if it's going scrape under really hard braking or a hard turn in over a rumble strip. The height is set by the three 1" towers so if I want to raise the whole splitter up for more ground clearance all I have to do is cut down the towers and adjust the bolt lengths.

I also decided to just drill a threaded rod union to attach the turnbuckles to the splitter and I welded the upper turnbuckle mounts to the bottom of the bumper brace.

Quoting curtis:
It would be tedious for sure but you could get some c channel aluminum at lowes and use the 1 inch wide section as the front and cut small slits in the 1/2 inch sections and bend /roll to contour then when done weld the slits and machine smooth and rivet or tack weld to the frame work.



I have to look around the hardware store some more to see what I can dig up. If I can't find anything I'm just going to lay bead of white caulk on the exposed edge and be done with it.

Damn brother you had a long day. Looks really good I didn't realize it was that low from the cover so nix my idea. It's super strong for sure and shouldn't flex at speed. Only thing I see on it I don't like is that its isn't contoured to the same shape as the front cover but I'm sure the design probably needs to be that way for function over looks. Like you said take some getting use, plus with the blue branding stamps everywhere makes it hard to see clearly after some paint will look alot better. So what color matte black or white.

I thought about this today while I was working around the house. Maybe the side fins on the wing white and the wing and splitter being black would set it off. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Which brings up a question. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

How about me cutting new side plates out of lexan and putting the one lap log on them instead of being in the pylons? Since were cutting it so close on time. That is if I can figure a way to chuck them up in the mill. I can bolt up a billet on the back side and can rotate the vice on the swivel base but may not be perfectly straight due to work envelope. Guess will see Monday when it gets here.

That looks great, get any testing/feedback from driving yet? I came accross this web page a few months ago and maybe this will help others here to make their own splitter

I chickened out and raised the splitter up one inch so now it sits 5" off the ground. I also painted the lip and finished making the turnbuckle mounts. A tree fell a few houses down and took out the power to the street just as I about to drill the holes for the mounts. So its not done but it should be today. Here are some pictures.