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no start, hard start, kills out?

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
Hey guys, I just rebuilt my motor with a fresh top end and BC valvesprings/retainers and a low mileage jdm block, I have no oil cooled filter housing, and i cut out the FIAV. Mods are : MHI Big 16g, DSM GT High Flow exhaust manifold, 2g o2 housing, 2.5-3" straight pipe, 2g elbow with Jonvr4's FMIC Kit. Evo VIII Injectors, Evo IX Fuel pump and a 2g hard intake pipe with a 2g maf and SAFC. Im in the middle of fine tuning the timing, and well I can start the car, it revs high and then it will lower when i adjust the cas or lower the biss screw. sometimes it won't start but it does crank over. Its a hit or miss. sometimes if I start it up it'll run til warm and then die. The cars heater stopped working after the install of this motor, but im thinking its just because the hole coolant system is gunked up with debris from the past headgasket of the old motor. Since I've owned the car my Coolant temp sensor will show up on the CEL but I never replaced it. and last time I checked the housing was kind of nasty looking but I cleaned it out as best as I could, but again it sat for 5 month's. Does the Coolant temp sensor have anything to do with any of this? and yes I have a new thermostat and a temp sensor. Thanks
-Shane
oh yha more mods:
ARP Headstuds,
MLS Headgasket,
BSE,
ported OFH
 
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toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
You need to troubleshoot that ect code.

You can start by visually inspecting the wiring leading to the connector that has two wire leading to it where it attaches to the sender at the t-stat housing.

If it appears to be damaged, an easy way to repair it is to use the connector from the front door speakers of a dsm, (it's the exact same connector) and then splice it in using solder/heatshrink.

You need to do this sooner rather than later to avoid damaging your minty fresh build.
 
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Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
i checked those connectors, the wires broke off so i had to solder the ends to two other wires to extend it, then use the speaker connectors to attach it to the sensor. and yes the CEL used to pop up on both ecu's, my old one took a crap on me so i thought it was just a fluke, then this ecu kept saying the same code. should I replace the sensor and Thermostat anyways since I have it already?
=Shane
 

rgeier11

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Messages
726
Location
Chicago Suburbs, IL
A bad coolant temp sensor will cause your car to not start.
 

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
I can't find my logger but I already replaced It today and it still started up for a bit and died. And won't start again right after, and it threw a code right before it died.
-Shane
 

Jesh

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
282
Location
Soldotna, Alaska
take a voltmeter and set it on oems. take the wire connector off the cts and touch either of the probes to both terminals to measure the resistance, when your engine is warm you will have low resistance and when its cold you will have high resistance. i would check it cold, then start the car up with the cts disconnected with your voltmeter hooked up. and see if the resistance gradually goes down. if not your cts is bad.
 

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
still havent found my logger, let me ask you this, when I put the CAS into the new motor, i made sure it was correctly set and that the cams were TDC. I had some high rev idle issues and my mechanic turned the CAS a bit to smoothen it out, is it possible that the CAS is whats causing me to start and then die? and not start again?. also timing has not been correctly adjusted to *5 blah blah yet, he said it was off a tiny bit and then the problems arised. anyone?
-Shane
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
Nvm redid the cas and still no start, I need to find my logger asap -_-
-Shane

just found my logger, i will let you all know asap.
 
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Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
ok guys, i unplugged my ecu and put in a old burnt up ecu, and it started up 0_o. I have no idea, but it does run shakey with codes 13)Air temp sensor 14)TPS 21)coolant temp and 25)barometric sensor, I just replaced the coolant temp sensor, but Im not sure if this ecu is really right. because I replaced that old ecu because it kept throwing codes. if thats the case, its just my ECU thats f***ed up huh?
-shane
 

Hey, do yourself a favor. When people tell you to try something, post what your results were. It makes them feel good for helping you diagnose your problem, and allows them to think about other solutions if the one they suggested is incorrect. It also prevents people suggesting the same thing multiple times.

For my money, I would ohm out the ect as has been suggested to you. It should be: Cold (68*F): 2.1 - 2.7 kOhms, Hot (176*F): 0.26 - 0.36 kOhms (these came off some website but have worked for me. If people have a better number, I want it).

If it ohms out well, test the output and input voltage for the ect. Then backprobe the ecu on the ect pin and see what the voltage is. They should be within .1v (or .5 if you don't give a sh*t) If it is any higher, you need to find the unwanted resistance in the circuit.

Also, your battery V is good, howbout at your starter/ecu? Test from the battery posts to the cables. Check from the posts to the ecu. Check from the battery to the starter. This is an old car, and you could be loosing several volts. If you have 11v at the battery while cranking, but 8v at the starter the car won't start well. If the voltage at the ECU is too low it won't be able to properly actuate the injectors.

Don't forget your grounds! If your voltage applied to the ecu is good, maybe the ground is bad. Check for voltage on the ground wires for the ecu. If you see more than .5v, clean the ground/repair the wire. Clean the connectors that connect to your ecu! I had a bad connection on a ground pin to my ecu, and the car would die going around corners!

DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT ON ECU WIRING!!! You may fry your ecu. Use a high impedance digital voltmeter.

What condition are all these ecus in? Capped? Known good? A bad ecu will cause your car to be a non functional piece of sh*t.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
I said that the old ecu that has acid damage starts the car, the ecu that was in here with no visible damage wont start the car. back and forth i switched it and it started only with the acid damage one but also throws codes because that one was previously messed up which was why i replaced it.
-shane
 

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
ok so i replaced the mpi, still didnt work, i checked the plugs and wires, the plugs were totally BLACK and the wires were old, now with my old damaged ecu it starts after a bit of cranking, but idles high, surges and then dies, but if i give it gas, it stays on, if i pop the once was working eprom ecu into my car, the car will just crank and wont start. Im going to guess its my ECU thats really messed up.
-shane
 

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
ok well, now its running rough, just thought i would say that timing was off half a tooth , and the ecu , well i didnt push the chip back into the socket fully for a solid connection.........lol my bad. so today on christmas morning, i will be tearing it down, and re-timing it.
-shane
 
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