Hey guys just picked up number 1862. The story is, I know a friend who knows a friend whose house's backyard is directly inline with a backyard of another house where 1862 has been sitting for about ~18 months. Anyways I had a friend look at it, who doesn't know much about the galants or DSMs and it was too much work for him. Anyways I took a look at this one 2 weeks ago and I just knew I had to have it! so about 2 weeks later I have it!

here is some pictures of how the car sat in this guys backyard.








After I told him today that I'm going to pick the car up today he pulled the car out of the backyard and said he just rinsed the car off with a hose sponge, without using any soap or anything, here is how she looked when i picked her up today.





after we got her home





she cleans up pretty nice! but you can tell the clear coat is a little dull due to sitting and age of the car, Being that I don't have all my tools and my crane in this garage, I figured until I get a motor and get my tools to this garage, I might as well start trying to restore the clear coat, I purchased the mothers "clay bar" and started going to town on the body. It takes forever! took my bro and I 2-3 hours just to do the wing, rear quarter panel, part of the roof, and driverside rear door. unfortunately I dont have pictures, but the clear coat is starting to look really nice!!
Anyways I thought I'd share the car my brother and I are trying to rescue, this isn't anything new to us, me and him have rescued his 3000GT VR-4, My Talon, and another 1991 3000GT vr4 with 46,000miles! So this 1862 is in good hands!

I will keep this thread updated with pictures and of everything that my brother and I do to the car, so check back! My goal is to have it running from 2 to 3 weeks from now!

the only costmetic things wrong with it minus minor clear coat imperfections is that the hood is a little bent and one of the headlights sits a little off, both of which I hope to have fixed as well!

thanks for looking

aside from mine being a black 92, that's almost identical to how mine looked when I got it. My engine was whole, but the tranny was in 1000pcs in the trunk. The first few days cleaning and taking inventory are the best I think. All the anticipation. Good luck with it, and have fun. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Rock awesome find! Looks great. Welcome to the board /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Schweet!
Welcome to the board, nice rescue.

Looks a 1000 times better already than sitting covered with moss.

Good luck with those goals.

Thank you for rescuing that GVR4. Definitely looks very good body wise...cleaned up very well I may add! Looks like a great candidate to get restored and start rolling under its own power soon! Good luck /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Nice find, what a difference already. I'm glad she's in good hands. Where in Jersey are you? Oh and welcome to the board.

I live in south jersey. I personally want to put the car together completely stock, with air conditioning and cruise control, I have a tendency to remove those on most of my cars. But the AC condenser looks really messed up, I also wanted to keep the AWS, but it looks like the power steering lines in the rear are leaking bad /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif hopefully I can figure it out.

I have a condenser if you need one.

What did you end up paying for that hunk of junk? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

HA! i ended up paying 1000, for the car, another set of wheels (the different ones that came on the galant the 5spoke ones) A box of transmissions parts, like gears and synchroes, an evo 8 or evo 9 IC, and a bunch of other random odds and ends, car came with like 4 good sized boxes of parts, that didnt come off the car. I honestly have no clue what other goodies are in these boxes, because i have yet to go threw all the boxes and take a look at everything. I know im trying to pick up a radiator, stock shift boot, new hood, and the trim that goes under the headlights sometime soon.

I would love to do this with a car if I had the time haha.

:::::update::::::

car is running and driving! I will post some pictures of it maybe tomorow night, still have a few kinks to work out, but other then that it seems all pretty good!

grats!

Nice job. You got cracking on it pretty fast it looks like.

update 2 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Like a DSM it had a DSMlike problem already. The other day after starting the car up, I looked had it running and noticed oil pissing out of the the oil pump side, while I saw that I also noticed the crank pulley wobbling pretty badly. I shut the car off right away!

I bought an the crank seal and the oil pump seal today, Took the thing apart tonight and noticed something strange....The hydrolic tensionar bolts came loose... I still took the drive sprokets out to take a peep at the seal and it seemed dry, but everything around the front case was soaked!

My theory as of right now is that since the hydrolic tensionar bolts where loose it caused the gasket to leak. Now I can't imagine that I could have over looked tightening them and if I did its a big fail on my part /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif. But I am also worried that I did tighten them and they came loose, possibly from the woobling underdrive pulley creating excessive engine vibration. (don't know how plausible that is, but its a hunch)

My plan for now is to dry everything up and re-tighten the timing tensioner using lock washers on the bolts ( I really hope that if this is the problem my gasket seals or else I'm effed) I then will start the engine up and look around and hope everything stays dry for a bit. Oh and I also have to get another underdrive pulley, which isn't a big deal.

thats it for now hope to have her up and running well soon! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

the tensioner bolts shouldn't need lock washers, but they are unique bolts. hopefully someone posts a picture of what they should look like for you.

I don't think those bolts being loose would cause a leak, but here is a picture of what they look like:




I use a little red loctite on mine for good measure.

You sure the leak isn't coming from up higher, like around the cam seals? Just make sure you check *all* seals on that end of the motor really well.

Thanks for the pic, Mark! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The factory used shoulder bolts on the tensioner for a reason. The increased diameter on the shoulders help locate the tensioner, and reduce the tendency for the cyclic vibration to loosen the hardware.

For optimal performance, only shoulder bolts should be used in this application..

I also recommend a scosche of loc-tite on the hardware for tensioner as well. I prefer using the blue (medium strength), because I change the tensioner out with every t-belt change, but it's all good, just use something.

When using loc-tite on critical fasteners, I will also use the low side of the torque value range given in the factory service information, to allow for the fact that the loc-tite has a *small* amount of lubricity.

As far as the oil leak goes, the front cover has oil passages cast into it that port the oil from the oil pump to the filter housing, and then back to the main gallery. The divider wall between the two passages passes right under the tensioner. If those two bolts aren't pinching the cover down correctly, you may get an oil leak.

hey guys, I originally used the correct bolts, I have taken many of these motors apart and have put them back together numerous times, I knew that the hydrolic tensioner bolts are "special"

any how, I didn't replace anything (such as the seals) last nigth I re-did the timing belt and put 1 lock washer on each tensioner bolt, I have never had this problem with any 4G63 that I ever have put together.

As far as lock tite, I personally stay away from that stuff, with these motors being notorious for breaking random hardware, last thing I want is to snap a bolt threading into the block, if I ever need to remove the tensioner for any reason.

Anyways last night after re-doing the timing belt I started her up on battery power only, let it run for a bit and no oil leaks! so yes the hydrolic tensioner bolts being loose will definitely take pressure away from the front case and the gasket will start leaking, there was no doubt in my mind that these bolts being loose would cause that.

I also found another crank pulley in my shed that is in perfect condition, bolted everything back together, wanted to take her for a spin tonight but it got a lil late, was scared to take the car out at 2AM with no registration/insurance.

What I was wondering if anybody knows which sensor directly senses for the stock water temp gauge? Because my gauge isn't working and I really would like to retain the stock gauge functionality rather then buying an after market gauge for water temp.

thanks for all the input guys!