Okay, who here has the best price on an ACT 2100. My Clutchnet clutch crapped out after a year, so no more of those. Unless Jesse wants to warranty it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Anyhow, let me know.

Are you looking for just the disk or do you want the plate and the throwout bearing?
You can get a good clutch for around 120 shipped on extreme PSI.
And the clutch kit is about 500 don't member off the top of my head.

Disc and pressure plate.

Check RRE .

It's best to order over the phone with them. Their online ordering process is hokey.

I hate ACT!!!! My friend bought a 2600 for his FWD DSM, ACT flywheel & clutch combo, I installed everything, Torque everything how it's supposted to be, Never disengaged!!! We started replacing everything, Brand new Master cylinder,Slave cylinder, Pedal assembly, Braided line, New throw-out bearing, new fork, new pivot ball, fuking sh*t wouldn't go into gear... I searched & searched & found shitload of people with the same problem, We send the sh*t back... They said we installed it wrong, I made sure the i torqued it properly & i made sure it was correct....

Quoting deez:
Okay, who here has the best price on an ACT 2100. My Clutchnet clutch crapped out after a year, so no more of those. Unless Jesse wants to warranty it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Anyhow, let me know.



PM'd ya. I'll be able to help you out one way or the other. I'm interested to see what happened...

Is the pressure plate actually chewed up or is it just the clutch disc worn out? That's awful fast to wear out a clutch unless you were slipping it a lot (like driving in traffic), or something is wrong. With a properly installed and worn clutch, only the disc should wear out, not the PP surface.

If it's just the disc, you can easily just replace it with a new disc, or even a sprung puck disc if you want to upgrade the capacity slightly. (single plate clutch parts are pretty much all interchangeable, even between brands, despite what they want you to think)

If it actually chewed up the pressure plate, did the disc wear more on the PP side than the flywheel side? If so, make absolutely sure you get the flywheel resurfaced and re-stepped. If you have an aluminum FW, consider replacing the friction plate.

If the flywheel is gets glazed from slipping to much and overheating, (glassy smooth, heat marks, etc), it won't grip properly on that side, and the PP, which is taking all the load, will get extremely overloaded and eventually destroyed. If you've got this problem, the root cause is the flywheel, not just the clutch dying, and it will likely happen again unless you fix the flywheel. If it was a brand new flywheel and the above happened, you probably got stuck in traffic a lot /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif

This is one of the reasons I really dislike the asymmetrical clutch discs (different friction material on each side) that some manufacturers use, since they are more prone to this problem.

I hate shopping for clutches. ACT 2100 apparently wont hold up, 2600 will be will give you a bigger left leg, centerforce doesn't hold up, what I had didnt. Is there such a thing as a streetable clutch, no chatter, no big left leg, and durable??

^^^^^^^ What you're looking for doesn't exist, at least not to my knowledge. To get away from the extra pedal effort you would need to get a twin disk, but all of the ones on the market for DSM's use a sintered iron disc and it isn't what I would consider streetable (things like that are subjective though)in addition to which you'll have the contstant racket of the floaters moving around. The other option is to use a pressure plate with less clamp load and use a puck style disc or a disc that has an agressive friction compound but that will through out the streetable part of the equation.

The ideal thing would be a twin disk using organic discs, but to get it to hold 600 + ft. lbs. of torque it would have to have more surface area than the standard 7.25 PTT or Quatermaster twin disc. We (ACT)make a twin disc that has organic friction material and it holds 875 ft. lbs. for the GM LS motors and the Ford 4.6 V8's but is done using a 10.5' clutch. So what you're left with is single disc units that need to have a certain amount of clamp load = pedal effort since it's not using twice the surface area that a twin disc is along with agressive friction materials like sintered iron (that can make mince meat of flywheels and pressure plate castings if driven on the street a lot).

As asked in a prior post what exactly failed on the Clutchnet set up you have? Everything fails for a reason. How much torque is the car making? FWIW I used to have a 2100 on my car with a Turbonetics 62-1 on the car and it never slipped and I have a 2100 on my car now with a Garrett 60 Trim and it doesn't slip either. Both turbo set ups easily make more power than the clutch is rated for but I also don't drag race /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. The last part of what your looking for, durability is going to be determined by the clutch used, installation and last but not least you.

Daryl

Nice explanation. the car is mild, E16G at 20lbs with supporting mods. So upper 200's is my guess for horsepower. As for driving, I drive it. I don't abuse it, but I like to run it thru the gears.
I would like to run the 2100, but I read posts about how people go through them with spirited driving.
As for what failed, they said the clutch material was worn, and the pp had some pretty good hot spots. The clutch did slip on me twice pretty good, but thats it.

I've put 20,000 miles on my ACT-2100 and my car regularly sees 20psi on my s16g. The clutch will stand up to 300 horsepower and daily driving no problem. What it won't do is handle you launching it often and/or repeatedly. Still, I've probably done 10+ full stutterbox launches and it's still fine. The main thing that will kill a clutch dead is launching repeatedly in short succession without letting things cool. But as for spirited driving. You can do autocross or road courses or anything you want that doesn't involve excessive slipping of the clutch. That means, with your 16g, a 2100 will be fine unless you plan on drag racing alot.

The enemy of most discs is heat so if you're drag racing or launching the car it may have a short life span. If the disc is worn you could just replace the disc if you were happy with it but I would make sure that the clutch is disengaging properly. If it's not it may cause the disc to drag on the pressure which will accelerate wear and cause the hot spots you mentioned. Even if the car was shifting well it could still not disengage fully and drag.

Contrary to popular belief flywheels and pressure plates do not need to be rough to work properly. They just need to be flat and free of petroleum based products on the contact surfaces. The hot spots will not affect the performance of the disc but warpage will because the disc will only make contact with the high spots on the pressure plate or flywheel. You'll need to verify that the pressure plate is not warped before attempting to reuse it (this can be done by using a straight edge across the casting surface).

Daryl

Okay, for those of you who have tried them both, ACT 2600 vs. 2900 feel at the pedal. From what I was told, the 2900 has an easier feel at the pedal due to pp design. Those of you who have tried them both, chime in.

I went from driving a neon as a dd to my vr4 with a 2600. It's really not that bad. You dont even notice after the first 10 minutes of driving in the street. Its not nearly as bad as some people make it seem. And no bigger left leg. I still have two chicken legs so... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Quoting deez:
Okay, for those of you who have tried them both, ACT 2600 vs. 2900 feel at the pedal. From what I was told, the 2900 has an easier feel at the pedal due to pp design. Those of you who have tried them both, chime in.





I had both, the 2900lb has a high pedal feel compare to the 2600lb where its instant grab. The 2900lb with the high pedal engagement makes it easier than the 2600lb. But these were on 6 puck disc setup and I daily my cars, but I have no issues with both clutches.

Quoting deez:
Okay, for those of you who have tried them both, ACT 2600 vs. 2900 feel at the pedal. From what I was told, the 2900 has an easier feel at the pedal due to pp design. Those of you who have tried them both, chime in.



The information you recieve is going to depend on whether the pressure plate was purchased within the last 3 years or earlier. If it was manufactured within the last 3 the pedal effort required on all of DSM pressure plates is significantly less when comapared to the older design. In fact when I first put the newer 2100 in my car over the older 2100 it felt as if the system was not bled properly.

A 2600 by design is going to feel a bit stiffer than a 2900 because of the diaphragm design and increased clamp load over a 2600. Unless you can compare using both pressure plates in the same car their can be factors that will make one feel stiffer than it's supposed to be. Something as simple as using the wrong lube on the input shaft will increase the bearing load = pedal effort felt.

Daryl

I have tried ACT2600 and I have Clutchmaster stage 3 for a long time, they hold pretty well and I don't really think they are giving such a hard time on the left foot, unless you are stuck in traffic, that's when I really want to end myself at that point. Otherwise, on regular day driving, it's not as bad as you think it is. If you wanna try a stiff clutch, try the one on my 3kgt... yeah, I thought my CM stage 3 was a dud when I first drive my galant after 2 years of my 3kgt...

Is the newer 2600 softer on the pedal than the older ones or is it just the 2100 and 2900 that were changed.

There was talk a while back about how 2600 and higher put alot of pressure on the fire-wall and had, in some cases, caused the mounting points to tear etc. If the newer 2600 has a lower pedal effort than it used to then maybe I'll go with that next time.

Also note that really heavy clutches have occasionally caused bell-housing failure due to the extreme force applied on the slave cylinder. That being said, I think that a 2900 is getting pretty heavy unless you're talking about a serious race car and you don't mind breaking transissions. Clutches that stiff tend to grab really hard anyway and you might be breaking gears if you launch it.

When I was looking at clutches, there was a lot of fuss about the 2600 being too stiff for daily driving. I was a little surprised when I went for a drive, it wasnt that stiff at all, IMO.

With a stiffer pressure plate, there are ways to keep the shock off the tranny when dumping it and going through the gears. Ive found that if the release is closer to the floor, it doesnt dump as hard. My foot doesnt release as quick when its right off the floor. When its at the top of the travel, the pedal was more sprung momentum. For me, it was the difference between the wipers turning on when hitting 2nd or not. Also, go with a sprung disc to keep that initial shock away from the tranny.

Could you imagine what a 2900 PP and unsprung 3 puck would be like? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif