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5 lug conversion process - Updated 3/17/09 - Now Done

Terry Posten

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Iceman helped me put all the pieces together for this job. I hope to start the removal process of the 4 lug stuff this weekend (if the weather holds). I hope to take lots of pics to help clear up the mystery of this job. I still have questions on the exact way of getting everything apart and put back together without taking too much apart.

For a parts list, see this thread. click

The brakes are for a 1993 Talon AWD (if your keeping the stock calipers).

Here is the first pic.


More to follow.
 
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Brianawd

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What rotors are those Terry?
 

Terry Posten

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I got them from Brakemotive76 from Ebay. I had to call them for the exact parts because they were not listed. They confirmed the rotor sizes for front and rear to make sure I get the right parts. Came complete with rotors and ceramic pads. They came to my door in 2 days. Super fast.

I bought 2 complete sets (one for me and 1 for Jeremy Clark) and paid something like $235ish shipped per set.
 

Brianawd

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Nice. They look like nice rotors.
 

Terry Posten

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The boxes are marked "Powerstop" just like the pads. I hope they hold up.

But they do look kinda small inside the new 17" wheels. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Brianawd

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Quote:
But they do look kinda small inside the new 17" wheels



Thats a big reason I stay with 16in wheels. It makes my 12.2 wilwoods look big. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Terry Posten

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Size pics with 17" wheels.

Front

Rear
 

slobra

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Mar 26, 2008
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Wilmington, De
Yay, I was just going to start assembling parts and preparing to post stupid questions for a 5 speed swap so I'm pretty excited your doing this.
 

G

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zompton
You using those lug nuts with those wheels? They don't look to be the shank washer style?
 

Terry Posten

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Yep they are. Genuine OEM Mitsu. They have the shank and the washer. Directly from the factory (literally).
 

What did the front wheel bearings and seals run you? I need a set for my mirage real soon here!
 

Terry Posten

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PM sent.
 

RedTwo

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What do those wheels come off? Seem kind of trendy and aftermarket for (based on the mitsi center cap) seem to be factory wheels.
 

slobra

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Wilmington, De
97-99 Eclipse GSX and 3rd gen eclipse
99gsx.jpg



00eclipse.jpg
 
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iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Terry won those wheels as a door prize at MOD '08 last October.
 

iceman69510

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Top pic is the two piece original wheels of this design, used on the 97-99 GSX, ans some 3rd gen V6s in 2000 MY.

The second pic is actually the one piece cast wheel that looks nearly identical from a distance, but is actually different construction. They were used on 2001-02 MY Eclipse 3rd gen I think.

Quoting slobra:
97-99 Eclipse GSX and 3rd gen eclipse
99gsx.jpg



00eclipse.jpg


 

Terry Posten

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Davenport, Iowa USA
OK, first real post for the process.

I will leave out the stuff about jack stands and tire removal. If you can't manage that, don't even start /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

Starting on the rear:

The first thing to do is remove caliper. I just did a full rear brake job less than 300 miles ago so this came apart really easy. I pulled the e-brake cable completely out of the way. I did not mess with the caliper bolts, I just removed the 14mm bolts (2) so the whole bracket assembly fell away. I then just flipped it up and out of the way without breaking the lines loose. I am planning on reusing the stock calipers. The rotors came away with a few hits with a dead-blow hammer. Most of the time, rear rotors will not come off that easy, but they are brand new and were not rusted on.

Caliper stored away


I then removed the axle bolts from the cups (again, this was easy because I did a 4-bolt swap early last year and I used all stainless hardware. I left the axles in the center diff and just wedged the axle forward and let them rest on the lower control arm. I then used an impact gun and removed the large locking nut that holds the cup on. I did not have to use a bar to keep the hub from spinning. I was able to just hold the hub still with my hand. (Gotta love powerful impact guns).

Axle stored away


Once the cup is off, I used a dead-blow hammer and hit the threaded end of the hub to knock it out of the carrier. It came out WAY to easy. The rear bearings were shot. Looks like I should have done this a few years ago. If your hub has good bearings, it most likely will not come out very easily. If your going to reuse/sell the old 4 bolt hubs, protect the threaded end by spinning the nut back on the treads so that the nut is damaged and not the threads.

The only thing left to do is pop out the inner bearing and oil seal. I found that the socket I have for the front axle nuts is a perfect size so I put that into the hub with a 4" extension (1/2" drive) and used the dead-blow hammer and tapped it out. This did not come out to easily. I did have to use some force for this and once the bearing let go, the seal, bearing, and socket went flying. So be careful not to have fragile stuff around the car while working.

"special tool" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

"special tool" used


I took a few minutes to clean the inner "hole" up and then put a very thin layer of axle grease over all the fresh metal to keep it from oxidizing because it will be a few days before I can slide the new hub in. If your going to re-assemble right away, grease is not needed.

I then turned my attention to all those shinny new parts shown at the beginning of this thread.

Here is a parts blow-up courtesy of Mitsu manual


Slide the two dust caps onto the hub as shown in this pic. Just tap them gently down with a small dead-blow hammer.


I own a GVR4, so I am "crafty". I find ways to make tools and such. This one is a very simple way of doing bearings without buying a press.

I have a very heavily built bench (that I built from leftover deck lumber). So I used a large spade-bit and drilled a hole through the far corner of the top, right next to a 4x4 leg. I then slide the outer bearing onto the shaft (after coating the rubber lip side of the bearing with axle grease) and then slid the whole thing into the hole in the bench. (I did not have the wheel studs in the hub yet.) I did that step last but took the pics after I was done.


I then used an old junk viscous clutch as a buffer from the 10lb hammer and drove the outer bearing down and then the ASB ring.(Again, ignore the wheel studs, they were not there when I was seating the bearings.)


I then installed the wheel studs because it is very easy to do on the bench instead of trying to get them fully seated once on the car. I just used a 16oz hammer and my bench vice. tapped them flush to the back side of the hub.

I will not be installing the hubs into the arm until I can clean/respray the wheel well.

More to come this weekend.
 
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