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Rear Caliper Piston Removal


TMG
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635439 posted 04/16/08 08:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Can somebody tell me how to remove the Piston from the rear Caliper? I tried the search but did not get anything close.

I think that it is a screw type and not a sliding type. I dont want to use a c-clamp to move the piston back if its suppose to be turned.

Thanks for the help.

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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635446 posted 04/16/08 08:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It needs to be turned in.

Are you removing the piston from the caliper or trying to push it back in?



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.


Edited by atc250r (04/16/08 08:54 PM)

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TMG
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635454 posted 04/16/08 09:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Trying to remove it to do a rebuild. Manual is showing a special tool to turn it, what can I use to rotate it without this special tool? Thanks.

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635457 posted 04/16/08 09:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If its stuck it'll be tough to move but I've used needle nose pliers in the past. There is a really inexpensive tool that is shaped like a cube and has a different spaced pair of prongs on each side to fit a bunch of different calipers. You use a 3/8" extension and ratchet to turn it.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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TMG
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635464 posted 04/16/08 09:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks John. I'll try that and see what I get. The piston is stuck right now and hard to turn.

Is it worth it to do a rebuild or just buy a reman? I heard things that after a self rebuild a lot of them leak. Not sure why.

Jojo

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635467 posted 04/16/08 09:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've rebuilt calipers and generally it isn't worth it IMHO. If you get a rebuilt set they'll be nice and clean so you can shoot a nice coat of paint on them before installing them. I rebuilt the Camaro calipers I got for my Camaro/Cobra brake kit but it was only to make 100% they were perfect even though they looked fine when I got them. I also had a friend who got me the AC Delco rebuild kits at cost.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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Wizardawd
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635538 posted 04/17/08 01:41 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not to mention they're fairly cheap for a reman, look pretty and they have a warranty.

click

You could just undo the caliper and hang it up with some wire, then push the brake pedal and see if it will push the piston out for you.



And yes, they need to be rotated in, clockwise. Needlenose pliers with a slight push works ok for most.

Wiz



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CP
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635611 posted 04/17/08 08:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Those cubes suck, and needle nose pliers are even worse. You can rent/borrow this kit from most AutoZones. I own one of them and they're much easier to use than the other methods described.



-Cy
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icurunnin
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635630 posted 04/17/08 09:33 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just did the entire brakes (front and rear rotors and pads) yesterday and while one rear was easy to remove the other was a bit hard. I used needle nose pliers without to much trouble. I think the more frustraing thing to me was getting the front rotors off. Those things are like trying to milk a bull.



WTH are you looking at??

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TMG
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635645 posted 04/17/08 10:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I will be redoing all brakes so I started on the rear but the first Piston is stuck and hard to take out using the pliers, the brake pad and rotor were metal to metal. I already took out the boot so I'll be ordering the Caliper Brake Kit to replace all the boots and seals.

What kind of grease do you use to put the pins and piston back? Can I just use a Lithium grease to spray on there?

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635655 posted 04/17/08 10:48 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Get some actual brake grease so it will handle the temps.

Before you rebuild the piston part of the caliper, make sure that the parking brake lever moves and functions OK. I have had calipers where this seized, and there are no parts available to rebuild it. You need that to work if you want your rear brakes to adjust properly as you use them.



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boostedinaz
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635656 posted 04/17/08 10:52 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just tried this on 1101 with no luck. My driver rear caliper was starting to freeze and when I pulled it off I found that it was 110% frozen. Nothing I did could get it out so I just had to pony up and by rebuitl calipers.



Michael
The rebuild of 1101

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toybreaker Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635674 posted 04/17/08 11:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
For the caliper body o-ring or anything that runs in brake fluid, I like actual hydaulic system grease. It's generally red, and lucas, girling, ate, castrol, and lockheed all service this application. Using grease in the bore, on the o-ring, and on the piston ensures that things will move freely for the life of the caliper.

Please note that the majority of the grease you are apllying will be bled out when you bleed the system.

The little that stays behind really does help a ton. I've taken calipers apart that I did ten years ago, and there's still a lil grease in, on, and around the o-ring.

The cool part is that the tackiness of the grease really helps the system do it's job. The brake caliper uses a square cut o-ring. The piston doesn't actually slide much in that o-ring every time you use the brakes. The o-ring kind of deforms when the piston moves. When the brake pedal is released, the o-ring will pull the piston back. This is a very good thing, as the brake pads will last longer, the car will roll more freely, and the brake pedal will be much more consistent. Using hydraulic grease will ensure that the edges of the o-ring stay sharp, and that the system works as intended.

It's also really cool when you can push the front caliper pistons back in with thumb pressure, or the rear pistons turn back easily when doing a pad change.

As far as the sliders and pins go, Sta-lube synthetic brake grease is the shizznit.

There are rubber guide bushings on the pins that will deteriorate/swell and do bad things if the wrong grease is used. Keeping the pins lubricated will go along way towards keeping the pads from dragging on the rotors. Please, be sure to remove all the old grease, and rust from the caliper carrier and caliper pin bores. I use a bottle brush, brake clean and long q-tips to get the schmeg out.

Also, please understand that too much grease in the pin bores will hyrdaullically lock things up. I find I have the best luck putting some sta-lube on a screwdriver tip, sneaking past the bootie, and wiping it inside the bore. Then just push the pin in all the way. The exccess will squeeze out. Wipe it off, and you're done and ready to assemble.

Don't forget to inspect the brake hoses carefully. (Now is the time to replace them, as the rears are prone to failure.)

Enjoy trouble free service.

Btw, all the service kits are available from the stealership.

Not cheap ( ), but still cheaper than buying a pos reman with a pitted bore. Doing it yourself ensures quality control to your standards.

Cliffs

Hydraulic grease for the hydraulics.

Sta-lube synthetic brake grease for the sliders. (available in one use packets/tubes or lil buckets with a brush)

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TWEAKD4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635705 posted 04/17/08 12:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting atc250r:

I've rebuilt calipers and generally it isn't worth it IMHO. If you get a rebuilt set they'll be nice and clean so you can shoot a nice coat of paint on them before installing them. I rebuilt the Camaro calipers I got for my Camaro/Cobra brake kit but it was only to make 100% they were perfect even though they looked fine when I got them. I also had a friend who got me the AC Delco rebuild kits at cost.

John




+1. I rebuilt my rears and they didn't last for more than 8000 miles. They were in bad shape to start with. I ended up getting rebuilt replacements at Advanced and no problems at all.



Craig
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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 635898 posted 04/17/08 06:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
DO NOT use any type of petroleum based grease on the pins. It will swell up the pin boots and the rubber collar on the one pin on each caliper. Then the pins will be more or less seized in there bore. You MUST use a silicone based grease like Napa SilGlyde (sp?).

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

Posts: 13235 | From: Orange County, NY | Member Since: 09/11/03 | IP: (68.197.59.65) | Report this post to a Moderator

CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 637284 posted 04/21/08 12:51 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Or anything that says "brake caliper grease" on the jar/tube. I use CRC.



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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