For the caliper body o-ring or anything that runs in brake fluid, I like actual hydaulic system grease. It's generally red, and lucas, girling, ate, castrol, and lockheed all service this application. Using grease in the bore, on the o-ring, and on the piston ensures that things will move freely for the life of the caliper.
Please note that the majority of the grease you are apllying will be bled out when you bleed the system.
The little that stays behind really does help a ton. I've taken calipers apart that I did ten years ago, and there's still a lil grease in, on, and around the o-ring.
The cool part is that the tackiness of the grease really helps the system do it's job. The brake caliper uses a square cut o-ring. The piston doesn't actually slide much in that o-ring every time you use the brakes. The o-ring kind of deforms when the piston moves. When the brake pedal is released, the o-ring will pull the piston back. This is a very good thing, as the brake pads will last longer, the car will roll more freely, and the brake pedal will be much more consistent. Using hydraulic grease will ensure that the edges of the o-ring stay sharp, and that the system works as intended.
It's also really cool when you can push the front caliper pistons back in with thumb pressure, or the rear pistons turn back easily when doing a pad change.
As far as the sliders and pins go, Sta-lube synthetic brake grease is the shizznit.
There are rubber guide bushings on the pins that will deteriorate/swell and do bad things if the wrong grease is used. Keeping the pins lubricated will go along way towards keeping the pads from dragging on the rotors. Please
, be sure to remove all the old grease, and rust from the caliper carrier and caliper pin bores. I use a bottle brush, brake clean and long q-tips to get the schmeg out.
Also, please understand that too much grease in the pin bores will hyrdaullically lock things up. I find I have the best luck putting some sta-lube on a screwdriver tip, sneaking past the bootie, and wiping it inside the bore. Then just push the pin in all the way. The exccess will squeeze out. Wipe it off, and you're done and ready to assemble.
Don't forget to inspect the brake hoses carefully. (Now is the time to replace them, as the rears are prone to failure.)
Enjoy trouble free service.
the service kits are available from the stealership.
Not cheap (
), but still cheaper than buying a pos reman with a pitted bore. Doing it yourself ensures quality control to your
Hydraulic grease for the hydraulics.
Sta-lube synthetic brake grease for the sliders. (available in one use packets/tubes or lil buckets with a brush)