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oil filter housing woes (leaks)

Ok so I had a leak at the oil cooler lines right by the filter housing. I bought a new B&M cooler with AN fittings per this thread.

Parts arrived and I began to disasemble the old stock oil cooler. I figured while I was under there I would take care of any other leaks so I removed a AN fitting with an elbow that wasn't in use, port 3 seen in this photo. After removing it I noticed pieces of some material breaking off of the filter housing threads.

Is this material teflon paste? Its breaking up and in small pieces which I'd rather not have mixed in with my oil.

Is there any way I can get the rest of this crap out cause I'm close to just buying a new filter housing and redoing all the lines.

I've never worked with this "teflon paste" before. Edit: Actually I have but it was long ago. I figured this stuff was jb weld but wasn't absolutely psotive.

What is the consensus on regular old teflon tape for sealing up oil ports? Are there different thickness tapes? What would you guys recommend to seal up all the ports on the oil filter housing? I don't want a drop of oil on my garage floor.

Heres a photo of what I'm dealing with.



Thanks
 
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brisvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2004
Messages
955
Location
brisbane australia
That does look like thread paste.
I don't use thread tape at all anymore, thread paste is much easier and more reliable IMHO.
If it was me I would pull the oil filter housing off the car and then clean the threads up.
That way you can port the relief valve area too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Thanks, I spent a lot of time today researching oil filter housing threads and found these:

click

click

Now I just need to figure out how to remove the crank pulley. Any help is greatly appreciated. Yes I searched but didn't find any specific threads on crank pulley removal. It seems that a lot of people like the fluidamper pulley but I don't think I really need one of those right now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

What problems are you having removing the crank pulley? As I recall, just remove the belts and the 4 bolts and it comes off.
 

if it is stick use a small pry bar with gentle pressure and it should just pop off.
 

boostedinaz

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Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
If the crank pulley doesn't come off with just the 4 bolts removed you can try to pry it off, but I am not a big fan of that method and is it can help the crank pulley separate. I would just get an impact and loosen the large center bolt as the washer usually holds the pulley on.

Keep in mind you will need to remove the timing cover to get the oil filter housing on. One stupid bolt is hidden behind that cover.
 

CP

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Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
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Crank pulley is 4 bolts.
 

Quoting UtahGalant:
What problems are you having removing the crank pulley? As I recall, just remove the belts and the 4 bolts and it comes off.



No real problems yet but I see the tdc marks on the pulley and that makes me nervous. I just want to make sure that by removing the pulley I am not disrupting timing or anything like that.

I've never had to do any crank pulley or timing work before so I am new to that part of the 4g63. I've done trans swap, head removal (but not install), replaced turbo, suspension/brakes, radiator and thermo housing, 4ws removal and other basic stuff. No real engine internal work.

Thanks for the help thus far guys. I originally intended to just upgrade the oil cooler and now I'm not feeling safe with the thread paste in the oil filter housing so I am removing that to port the relief valve and clean the thread paste out.
 

Polish

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Jan 10, 2005
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Location
NE, IN
I doubt the paste would hurt anything.

The pulley comes on/off easy. It has a mounting dowel, you can't really do it wrong. Timing is not affected since the timing belt stays on, you are only pulling the accessory belts.
 

number3

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Jun 26, 2001
Messages
7,623
Location
KoP, PA
If it the port I think it is that is not thread paste. (again I am guessing here) It might be JB Weld. It never needed to come out ever again so I used a little to "glue" in the fitting so that I would be sure it would not back out. I would clean it out to be safe.

I used only white teflon tape to seal any fitting that would need to be removed in the future.

The OEM 1G air oil cooler on the car was brand new when I installed it. Why are you 'upgrading' it? The oil temps were never a problem, even on the track.

You can paint the car neon green if you want to. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Just curious?
 

Polish, thanks.

Harry,

From what I can see there is an oil leak coming from the oil cooler lines. The actual oil cooler itself seemed to be fine.
 

grocery_getter

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Joined
Jun 20, 2004
Messages
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Location
Kent - industrial suburbs of Seattle, WA
Teflon tape is for plumbing pipes and threads at home, for automotive use please use teflon paste. Teflon tape will break into little pieces and get stuck everywhere.

Use a piece of teflon tape on your fuel system and have a piece of it came off and get stuck INSIDE your fuel injector.

Use a piece of teflon ape on your fuel system and have a piece of it came off and get stuck in your main or rod bearing.

PLEASE dont use teflon tape on any of the critical oil, fuel or water connection on your car.

I use Staybond S592 for this purposes. It is pipe sealant with teflon. It also resists oil and solvent. click

AN fittings will need no sealant, because it seals on the taper of the fitting.
NPT or other taper thread fittings seals on the tapers and will usually benefit from pipe sealant on threads.
Metric or Standard straight thread will seal on the face of the fitting and will need a washers.

Please use the right way of sealing the different fittings and connections.
 

^^^ +1. I left my fuel fittings bare due to what I'd heard about the tape, but had to really torque them to stop them from leaking (no one I asked knew what else to use besides tape). Now I know better and can do the job right.
 

number3

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Joined
Jun 26, 2001
Messages
7,623
Location
KoP, PA
He is right, however, the key to tape is which direction and how far up the thread it is applied.

Yes, paste is more foolproof and 'more correct' for EVERYONE to use, just like you shouldn't use you mouth to syphon gas either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

grocery_getter

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Joined
Jun 20, 2004
Messages
1,225
Location
Kent - industrial suburbs of Seattle, WA
Harry, I bought my brake cleaner fluid by the drums and used to have to suck the hose it with mouth as well. It burns your mouth inner skin when you have a mouthful of brake cleaner. That is until I finally rigged a fuel pump on a long metal rod and use that to lower the pump down the barrel and use it to pump the fluid out from the drum.

It burns your mouth worse than gasoline.
 

Brianawd

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Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
2,117
Location
Portland OR,
Quote:
It burns your mouth worse than gasoline.





Think thats bad. Spray some on your balls. sh*t burns so bad. When I was working at the dealer ship, we used to spray each other in the ball with brake cleaner when your were not looking.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quote:
When I was working at the dealer ship, we used to spray each other in the ball with brake cleaner when your were not looking.



I used to drill a very small hole on the backside of the spray nozzle... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

That put an end to that kind of horseplay. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

We then moved on to other shenanigans...
 
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