I hate asking these basic questions but I'm going to remove a seized 190 pump and replace with a 255 pump.

I reviewed the VFAQ for 1G Walbro installation so that's good. Any additional GVR4 hints at what I will need?

I have not opened up the tank yet, though all nuts are loosened.

-Should the 190 and 255 pumps be exactly the same configuration, should they be plug and play?
-Is there anything I can do for the level sensor to ensure it is working optimally while this is open? (its been too long I don't recall if the gauge works accurately or not)
-Any tips/tricks? I ordered a new gasket for the lid.
-I was going to leave my FP regulator where it is currently, then adjust once I see where the idle pressure is at. To set idle pressure, Galant is 37psi, but is that with or without the vaccuum to the regulator?


Thanks and sorry for such a beginner question. It's been too long since I've even thought about my GVR4.

Soon I will be asking very basic tuning questions, but I need to get it up and running first! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

-PJ

My gauge will read full, eventually, but it takes too long. I suspect it is likely the float is worn. I do believe the 190 and 255 are hooked up the same way.

Safety tip: It's really obvious, but I've known folks to skip this step. Unplug the battery.

If you already got all the bolts loose, your almost done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

New filter sock, gasket, and 10micron filter all came in while I was on a work trip.
I'm a bit antsy but will likely wait until the weekend to install.
I am going to leave the gauge sender alone and just see what it does before messing with it.

Fingers crossed,
PJ

I'll see if I can find one of my hangers, but its a sweeping sensor that moves along copper, I think, and sometimes it builds up a green corrosion and causes the sender to not read or read incorrectly. I use a nylon brush, like a cheapo harbor freight one, to clean it up and then hit it with a little carb cleaner.

On another note the position of the float arm is equally important, if the arm is bent it will throw off readings dramatically.

I have seen and found these arms bent many times in cars from people swapping out fuel pumps and just jamming the hanger back into the tank not realizing the float needs to be put in first.

Good to see your progress.

255 pump in!

I had to cut the rubber bottom spacer in half to get a snug but not too tight fit in the bracket. Not sure if that is normal or not? On top it goes white spacer, then oring, then the spacer/keeper thing which on mine was black but the old vfaq showed white. Everything seemed to go in and seat just fine up top.

Tested it to purge the lines and that 255 is pretty loud! It took me a bit to figure out that the new gasket guide nibs need to be pulled through their holes before the gasket snugs up. I didn't expect that and was stumped for a minute.

Anyway, it fired right up, purrs like a kitten. I wouldn't guess it hasn't run in years. Now to my tuning thread under general! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

-PJ

Oh, 5 gallons is registering about 3/8 of a tank. I forgot how much a tank holds? I will note it.

-PJ

Well, fuel pump is really loud. I think it got louder in the 2 mile test drive I did.

Plus, at idle now the fuel pump relay will click closed and engine stalls.
Turn key off, turn back and it starts right up.

Don't tell me bad ECU. This ECU is a recapped one from 2007 or so from Keydiver.

-PJ

You need to re-wire the pump for more voltage and give it a better ground while you are in there, also I would have used a supra pump instead. Super quiet. I have a new one if you need it.

I had the 255 on the shelf new for 10 yrs. I put in what I had.
I will review the whole re-wire thing. Battery in trunk so a relay off the stock harness direct from trunk battery should be very quick. Not sure its necessary, though. I really think if I didn't lock up the 190 it would have been still fine for 660s and

My last Supra pump that I had in 503 died out of nowhere. I've had a 255HP in 1051 for years and it's been great. I've never actually re-wired it even. No issues. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I mention the re-wire because the wires and connections are probably old/corroded. I bet the ground on top of the fuel pump hanger is little to non-existent. Have seen many high volume pumps suffer because they are not getting the volts they need, especially under boost, because of corrosion and old connections. Not to mention the thin gauge power wire that mitsu used. I think I paid $136 for it. You can have it for $77.00. It's so quiet, you won't hear it. Yes they bolt right in.

On the left is the stock usdm pump and assembly. On the right is the stock jdm evo spec pump and assembly. That larger pump has identical dimensions as the supra pump. You just have to cut the end of the metal inlet tube off and use a piece of rubber hose just like mitsu does. The rubber hose comes in the install kit with the pump.

Quoting PJGross:
Well, fuel pump is really loud. I think it got louder in the 2 mile test drive I did.

Plus, at idle now the fuel pump relay will click closed and engine stalls.
Turn key off, turn back and it starts right up.

Don't tell me bad ECU. This ECU is a recapped one from 2007 or so from Keydiver.

-PJ



I posted in your other thread about this.

I may have an Evo 9 pump around here if you want/need it. Did your 255 feature the full foam cover for the pump (used to quiet them)?

Yes, my 255 has the full foam. I was also able to put about 1/2 of the bottom damper thickness on between the pump and bracket bottom so it is not touching plastic to metal on the bottom either.

It was a "normal" volume when I tested it and at start up.
It got very loud after 2 miles or so of driving around the neighborhood.

I didn't see any crap in the bottom of the tank or when I drained from the plug, but I guess I can pull it and make sure the filter sock is still ok.
The + / - locations in tank were clean and corrosion free.

The top is rusty, so I will check and clean the connections there. But the wires seem to be nice and soft and the connection is clean and dry at the stock connector.

The odd thing was that at first it was just fine then got loud. Started it up last night and still loud. Some people have said theirs came and went.

I will pull the assembly and look at the sock. I will also check the fuel filter up front. I think I had a 10u filter up front before. but the old one has textile ribs and the new 10u is metal only so maybe its plugged with junk at tank bottom and restricted.

Good news is it is very easy to check.

-PJ

Pulled sender. I gambled and lost. When I poured 5 gal of fuel in everything looked clear and clean.
After a few miles of driving, pump got to whining, then the fuel pump relay clicked off. Those might not be related, but.....
Pulled sender and new filter sock filled with rust mud and the fuel is red soup. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Ordered a POR 15 tank restoration kit. This will never happen again to #490! Also ordered a new filter sock, again. I think I will keep the 255 in there.

The ground on the sender looks pretty dang good. I will clean it up but the car spent the last 15 years in a garage so it doesn’t have too many miles on it.

Tips for dropping fuel tank? Anyone know how many nuts/bolts off hand? On its own wheels for less than a week and now will be jsb again!!!

I think I will send in the ecu to check the capacitors while I have time I guess. Better safe than dead on the side of the road.

Damn it just got a shiny new plate today too!

PJ

Fuel tank is an easy drop, I think it's like 6-8 nuts, plus the fuel filler and breather hose and all the lines for the sending unit. Last time I did one it took like an hour, for removal and install, with no fuel in the tank.

Tank out. Ran rust dissolver in it. Have a POR kit on order but it looks pretty good with just the rust remover run through it and rinsed. I will still do the kit, but seeing how the remover coats the tank, I’m not sure I will get 100% coverage with the POR kit.....
Hmm..... decisions......

if you have it out and have the time to wait, por kit it. you already ordered it. tank out is a pretty easy job huh? glad your getting her together and working out the kinks as you go.

Would have been easier if I drained the 5 gal of gas, but I wanted to slosh it around before dumping. Nuts were not rusted at all.

I used a small POR kit to paint the outside of the tank while waiting for the tank kit. Top is done, tomorrow I’ll hit the heat shields. Bottom of tank seems to have an undercoat or something on it so will not do the bottom.

Can’t wait to get this thing back together. Need to pull the ECU and send it for an inspection. I don’t think the fuel pump working too hard would pop the fuel pump relay, would it? I think the two are separate issues.

PJ

Way to make quick work of the tank! Sorry if I missed it earlier, but I'd make sure all your electrical pump connections are good, rust free, and dry. One of things that happened on my car was a relay being mounted too low. First it cut out when something in the trunk rolled into it and pulled the signal wire off. later I found it was also rusted and caused some poor fuel pump operation. I replaced everything and mounted it higher up with the right amount of wire so it doesn't get pulled off.