I spent some time tonight rotating my CAS 180 just to make sure. I changed a spare one out, took the head out, and just wanted to make sure.

Anyway, my car seems to run the exact same way, no matter what way it is. This goes against everything I've read.

My car seems to run fine standing still, but bogs under any type of load and when first started.

Here it how it acts after its warmed up. click

Sounds like mechanical timing to me. Better double/triple check your timing marks.

I guess I can double check. The balance shafts have been omitted and I only have three marks to get right. I haven't gotten them wrong before, but I guess anything is possible.

The thing is, it ran like this out of the blue before I dug in to anything. One day it ran perfect and the next it didn't. No changes.

How is your isc?

I've never had a idle surge or stall problem, but I can test it.

Ignition module or coil pack. Those fail too.

Why would you assume it's the CAS? Sounds like you already ruled it out anyway.

sorry for my ignorance but your video only shows the car revving. did i miss something? i do hear your BOV whistle. my 1g stock BOV does the same thing.

did you set ignition timing after adjusting the CAS? when you took it out did you line up the notches on the CAS?

I've been battling a loss of power at higher RPM with my brother's galant. this is after a motor swap due to the old motor shredding the timng belt. car is stock minus FMIC and fabricated IC piping. starts fine. idles fine. drives OK under 3K rpm. What I've done so far. None of it helped the sputter/no boost issue.

* BLT (small leaks at BOV and j-pipe)
* good compression.
* put in lightly used NGK bpr7's i had laying around. new wires.
* removed DP at O2. ran it this way for a bit. hear turbo spool. no change.
* took WG arm off. flapper opens and closes.
* checked shaft play. minimum in/out and up/down. spins freely.
* checked mechanical timing. things look good.
* grounded and tested and set ignition timnig.

I'm moving onto fuel now as the possibility. starting with the fuel filter first.

Quoting prove_it:
Ignition module or coil pack. Those fail too.

Why would you assume it's the CAS? Sounds like you already ruled it out anyway.



Both of those have been changed. At this point, I don't assume anything. I'm just going back and checking things again. I've been out of new ideals for some time now.

Quoting 4G63_GSR:
sorry for my ignorance but your video only shows the car revving. did i miss something? i do hear your BOV whistle. my 1g stock BOV does the same thing.

did you set ignition timing after adjusting the CAS? when you took it out did you line up the notches on the CAS?

I've been battling a loss of power at higher RPM with my brother's galant. this is after a motor swap due to the old motor shredding the timng belt. car is stock minus FMIC and fabricated IC piping. starts fine. idles fine. drives OK under 3K rpm. What I've done so far. None of it helped the sputter/no boost issue.

* BLT (small leaks at BOV and j-pipe)
* good compression.
* put in lightly used NGK bpr7's i had laying around. new wires.
* removed DP at O2. ran it this way for a bit. hear turbo spool. no change.
* took WG arm off. flapper opens and closes.
* checked shaft play. minimum in/out and up/down. spins freely.
* checked mechanical timing. things look good.
* grounded and tested and set ignition timnig.

I'm moving onto fuel now as the possibility. starting with the fuel filter first.



The BOV is a Greddy. I've never heard a stock one sound like that. The fuel system has been checked. New filter, injectors cleaned and matched. Iceman even helped with spares to get a better matching pair. I've tested power to the injectors with a noid light. If anything, the car seems to run rich. Turbo didn't have any shaft play, seems to be fine. I haven't checked the pump, but according to the fuel pressure gauge, it's correct and I can hear the pump going.

What I don't understand and part of the original question. The car seems to run exactly the same no matter how the CAS is set. How is this possible? I can set the ignition timing "grounding following the VFAQ instructions" and the car runs the same.

Yes, the video only shows the car revving. What should it being showing?

FPR? is it going up on a 1:1 ratio with boost. just had a friend with kinda the same issue as you and he had a bad diaphragm in his aftermarket FPR.

when setting ignition timing are you grounding the correct pin and using a test light to make sure that you can adjust timing by rotating the cas. Seems odd to me that you can rotate the cas with timing pin grounded and ignition timing doesn't change.

* engine at operating temperature ... must be at the minimum temp signal being sent back to the ECU for this to happen.

If the outside temp is too low, and or the thermostat is maintaining a temp too low for the ECU to see proper entry temp, you will not enter base timing mode.

Quoting tektic:
How is your isc?



Just tested it and its fine. Not really surprised as I never had a stalling or idle surge problem.

Quoting transparentdsm:
FPR? is it going up on a 1:1 ratio with boost. just had a friend with kinda the same issue as you and he had a bad diaphragm in his aftermarket FPR.



I've only run about 1-2psi because its not running right. I can't get it to run right under vacuum or idle. I do know that once the car is warmed up, the fuel pressure is correct at idle.

Quoting boosted_85:
when setting ignition timing are you grounding the correct pin and using a test light to make sure that you can adjust timing by rotating the cas. Seems odd to me that you can rotate the cas with timing pin grounded and ignition timing doesn't change.



ignition timing does change, but the car still doesn't run right.

I'll try wording this a different way. I don't know if the CAS is set right or 180 degrees off because I no matter how I have it, the car runs the EXACT same way after I've set the base timing. One way should work, and the other shouldn't, but everything I've read, it shouldn't run the same way.

That's simple! TDC the engine (cam dowels facing up), then insert the CAS with the marks lined up. There is a notch on one side of the paddle, and a hotch in the CAS housing.

Quoting boosted_85:
when setting ignition timing are you grounding the correct pin and using a test light to make sure that you can adjust timing by rotating the cas. Seems odd to me that you can rotate the cas with timing pin grounded and ignition timing doesn't change.



when grounding the ignition timing adjustment connector, the check engine light should light up...

does it do this?

I haven't been working on it. I have to drive out of town for work. I have a 3 week break this holiday season, and I'll work on it then.

I don't remember exactly but there was an issue with the diagnostic port when I set my timing. Either my lap top had to be disconnected or connected for it to go into the mode to set timing advance. I remember an issue though.

Not sure it matters on a 91, but on a 92, the port needs to be unplugged.