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Main bearing oil holes not lining up

Kenny_Kline

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Assembling my motor and got into installing the main bearings for the crank. 4 of the 5 oil holes in the bearing don't line up in the journal oil hole, about half the hole is covered up. These are king bearings. Mains measure at .0030-.0032 oil clearance. I plan on running a 20-50 or 15-40 oil.





 

Kenny_Kline

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I said f*** it and I threw it together. Let's see what happens.

I was torquing down the oil pump to case. Pump says 22ft lbs on bolt but one of them seems to be starting to strip at 16-17psi so we stopped and did the rest at 17ft lbs all with red loctite on them. Is this acceptable?



 

GSTwithPSI

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None of the bolts from Mitsubishi denote the torque for the fastener on the head that I'm aware of. Torque for the front case bolts range from 14ft\lbs to 27ft\lbs. Go to the .org library and pull up the FSM, which tells you the spec for each fastener.

click page 85.

If you are throwing the bearings and front case together all willy-nilly, I'm curious to know what else was overlooked. What did you torque the main and rod caps to? You planning on running a 2g oil pickup? A 1g pickup won't work with your ARP main fasteners without modding the bracket.
 
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Kenny_Kline

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Rods got torqued to 54ft lbs (set to the stretch of bolt) and the mains to 50ft lbs. Id have to check my notes but I believe that's what it's at. Don't hold me to that.

I have a 6bolt oil pick up brand new, would it be easier to run a 2g pick up? I plan on running the stock oil pan.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Quoting Kenny_Kline:
Rods got torqued to 54ft lbs (set to the stretch of bolt) and the mains to 50ft lbs. Id have to check my notes but I believe that's what it's at. Don't hold me to that.

I have a 6bolt oil pick up brand new, would it be easier to run a 2g pick up? I plan on running the stock oil pan.



Well, not sure what rods you're running, so can't help you there. Your ARP mains should be torqued to 60ft lbs using ARP fastener lubricant click . Technically, you really shouldn't just throw ARP studs in the block. The ARP studs apply extra torque to the main caps which can distort the main bore alignment, causing your crank to get eaten. Did you check the main bore alignment before you assembled the motor? In addition, your rotating assembly should have been balanced. Honestly, I would take the time to do everything correctly. Just saying the hell with it, and throwing it together probably won't last long. You may want to PM BogusSVO, and have him explain in detail everything that should be done prior and during assembly. He's extremely knowledgeable, and is a machinist by trade. It looks like you have some money tied up in the motor, and I'd hate to see it go to sh*t in the first 500 miles.

As far as the pickup, you should probably pick up a 2G piece. It doesn't have the bracket that attaches to the main stud like the 1G pickup does. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to just cut the bracket off the 1G piece, but generally people just use a 2G pickup instead.


2G pickup:
MD181210.JPG


1G pickup:
oem_dsm_oil_pick_up_strainer.jpg
 

Kenny_Kline

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Yes you are right it was set to 60ft lbs I just checked the blue print specs and when it was measured with a gauge, notes say 60ft lbs on mains, 54ft lbs on rods. Not sure where you're getting your info from but I didn't just throw this together. The only thing in question was the oil bearing holes not lining up. I spent $1300 in machine work! I went well above and beyond what the normal do. I paid for time to blueprint oem hardware vs arp hardware, had it line honed, bored .020 over with a plate, everything balanced within a gram , crank balanced with flywheel and clutch under a gram, etc. I attempted to do this right as possible. I used redline assembly lube on bearings and arp moly lube on studs and rods. Thanks for info on the pick up I will address that
 

turbowop

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Yakima, WA
Quoting Kenny_Kline:
Not sure where you're getting your info from but I didn't just throw this together.






Quoting Kenny_Kline:
I said f*** it and I threw it together. Let's see what happens.





I'm pretty sure the second quote is why Brett thinks you just threw it together. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

GSTwithPSI

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Quoting Kenny_Kline:
Not sure where you're getting your info from but I didn't just throw this together. The only thing in question was the oil bearing holes not lining up.



Kenny,

That was an assumption I made from the comments Mark pointed out, as well as some others you made. For instance, Red Loctite is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. After Red Loctite sets, you are supposed to heat the fastener to 500 degrees to remove it. I'm not sure that's the best thing to put on the front case bolts, as they will probably be removed sometime in the future, especially since your motor will blow up if the bearings were installed wrong. Like I said, it seems like you have a bit of money tied up in this build, and it would really suck if all that went down the drain for something little that was overlooked. I'm just trying to throw out some suggestions to make sure that doesn't happen. It doesn't matter if you dropped 10k on machine work; that motor will run for 10 seconds without oil to the crank before it eats itself alive. You're at a point where you can still go through everything, and make sure all your money and time is put to good use. Are you pretty confident the bearings were installed correctly? With all that money you spent, you should have just had the machine shop assemble the short block. At least then, you would be free of some of the liability. If you're unsure of anything else, just ask before you just throw something together. There are a ton of guys here who are willing to help, who have done it all before.
 
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Kenny_Kline

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Seekonk, MA
The bearings were numbered from machine shop and installed by the number. I'm not sure how I installed the bearing wrong as they only get installed one way by the tang. The only thing I was worried about was the oil hole not lining up exactly. I understand what you're saying about there'd loctite but in my experience on solid motor mounts and no balance shafts, bolts like to back out so I try to use red or blue loctite on everything to be sure. I appreciate the help. I could of had machine shop assemble it but you know what, were would that get me? I try to do all my own stuff for the experience and I've been
Doing this for over 10 years now just not much hands on with assembly as detailed like this hence why I'm getting into it. The bearings were installed perfectly clean and dry and I plan on priming the engine by hand to be sure oil is everywhere before start up. If something is wrong then it will be a learning experience and I never make the same mistake twice. If like to think I got it right though .

Would you cut off the bracket on the 1g pick up, extend bracket on the 1g pick up or would you get the 2g pick up?
 

GSTwithPSI

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I understand, and can respect the fact you want to do things yourself. There's only one real way to learn, and that's to do it. When you are learning on a motor that you've dumped an extensive amount of money into though, I'd go the extra mile to make sure everything is good to go. If you are confident it's legit, then so be it.

Personally, I'd just get a 2G pickup and be done with it. The main studs won't allow you to utilize the bracket on the 1G pickup, and it's really not even needed. Modifying the bracket to bolt up somewhere else is pointless, so just cut it off if you're going to do anything with it.

You raise a good point about priming the motor. This is a critical step, and will ensure the new motor's longevity. Here's the way I do it: click . Make sure you complete all the steps in the link provided in excruciating detail. Each step is critical in ensuring the engine is properly primed.
 
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