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Clutch Dragging

SleepinGVR4

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Feb 12, 2003
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Location
Danville, Pennsylvania
So I put in a new clutch the other day and its dragging.

The master cylinder adjustment rod is adjusted all the way out and I'm out of thread to adjust it more.

The slave and master aren't that old. I replaced the clutch pedal assembly last year.

I'm out of ideas on what to do next.
 

gvr4ever

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Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,190
Location
central Indiana
What clutch did you install?

Have you replaced the flex line in the system with a SS one? Also, was the flywheel machined to the specs the clutch requires?
 

SleepinGVR4

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Location
Danville, Pennsylvania
I replaced my clutch with a South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ/B-Series Kevlar/Ceramic Clutch Assembly.








And yes the car has a braided clutch line. And the flywheel was machined to the proper specs.
 

DynastyLCD

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May 12, 2006
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761
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Harwinton, CT
how does the clutch fork look when you look at it coming out of the transmission? is it shimmed properly?

another consideration would be extending the clutch master arm, where you weld a nut onto where the clutch master threads in to give it more adjustment.
 

SleepinGVR4

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I didn't shim the pivot ball.

The clutch fork seemed to be position properly. It looked to be centered. I guess I could of shimmed the pivot ball.

Isn't extending the master cylinder rod a band aid for another problem?
 

DynastyLCD

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the extended SLAVE cylinder rod, is a bandaid for improper clutch fork shimming. if the clutch fork looks like its dead center, that isn't your problem. an extended clutch master modification like what im talking about, only gives you more room for adjustment.

reference picture

how's the condition of the clutch fork, and pivot ball? those two should be replaced if they have any sort of real mileage on them. a bent fork could give you the symptoms you have as well, but i doubt that it would bend as soon as you installed your new clutch.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Yakima, WA
That's the same clutch I just put in my car, works great with my ACT flywheel. I did shim my pivot ball. Strange though, my disk has the Exedy racing 6-spring hub, not the 4-spring style like yours.
 

SleepinGVR4

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Danville, Pennsylvania
I'll have to check out the clutch fork. It could be bent from prior use.

I just hate pulling the transmission.

And Mark that is strange considering that we got the clutch from the same place. My disk is an exedy also.
 
Last edited:

belize1334

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Nov 18, 2003
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3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
If you adjust the master cylinder rod too far then you disable the fluid bypass and the system is no longer self adjusting. This is as bad if not worse than not adjusting it far enough. Follow the instructions on Jacks clutch adjustment page. click This will give you the most throw possible while allowing the clutch to draw fluid in when necessary in order to maintain maximum release.
 

SleepinGVR4

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Danville, Pennsylvania
Quoting turbowop:
Did you get the SS or the SS-X pressure plate? I can't tell on my phone. I got the SS-X.



I got the SS pressure plate due to me daily driving the car.
 

SleepinGVR4

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Yeah I know how to adjust it.

I adjusted the rod out as far as I feel comfortable. But I never got to the point there I couldn't push the slave cylinder rod back in (pump up mode?) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I'm going to go see if its still dragging now.
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
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Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting SleepinGVR4:
I'll have to check out the clutch fork. It could be bent from prior use.




I don't think you can BEND cast iron, unless you've got a buttload of heat on it. Those forks don't bend. They snap. I had one break, once. Fortunately, it happened in my driveway, not on the highway.
 

SleepinGVR4

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Feb 12, 2003
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Danville, Pennsylvania
If the car very slightly tries to pull forward in first gear at 7,000rpms, is the clutch still consider to be dragging?

If so what should I try next? Extending the master cylinder?
 

gvr4ever

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Aug 6, 2002
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Location
central Indiana
Has anyone upgraded the whole clutch system? These post are always coming up. IMO, the stock system, even 100% working condition can't properly support these heavy clutches. I know I had trouble with a ACT 2600 when my car had 60K miles on it. Ended up snapping the clutch fork, had the rebuild the master and slave and even with all new parts, it didn't have much room at all near the floor.

With the age of the cars now, I'd imagine heavy duty parts are needed to go with these heavy clutches.
 

FlyingEagle

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Mar 5, 2005
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THE Ottawa
^^^ I had to upgrade the Master (OEM) , Slave (OEM) and feed line to stainless (AFTMRKT) to get my ACT 2100 (new model) setup to engage properly and not just off the floor.
Yes, it was adjusted at the pedal assembly as well. Pivot ball was shimmed, but makes me wonder if I should have with recent comments from reputable and
intelligent members here. This is in a Colt but its all the same stuff.
 

DynastyLCD

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May 12, 2006
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761
Location
Harwinton, CT
i've always found that shimming it to be straight seemed to be the best thing to do. i just did it by the picture i posted a link to in my last post. i find that the most problems that i encounter with clutch dragging is usually due to the clutch fork being improperly shimmed. the biggest problem besides age that i see with faulty pedal assemblies, would be over-adjusting the master cylinder to disable the self adjusting function (meaning you couldn't push on the clutch fork to depress the slave) and i've seen it more than once.

a good OEM master & slave cylinder are always a good idea. a necessity if you plan on running any kind of aftermarket clutch. i feel like there isn't that many parts in the clutch system, that you shouldn't leave any stones unturned, so to say. you have the clutch pedal assembly, the master cylinder, the rubber clutch line, the slave cylinder, clutch fork & pivot ball, and finally the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel.

that being said, besides your choice of clutch setup and flywheel, its about $350 - $400 (depending on where you go) in parts to replace EVERYTHING else to brand new condition. that's rebuilding the pedal assembly with Mitsu parts and bronze bushings, Mitsu master & slave cylinders, SS clutch line to replace that junk stock rubber hose, and a Mitsu clutch fork and pivot ball. hell... if you wanted to shell out another $20 or $30 you could upgrade to the competition clutch fork, which pretty much wont break the way a stock one potentially could. of course, you will pay more to have someone else do the work, but if you can do the clutch job yourself, there's no reason you couldn't do the rest. the only other hard part is removing the pedal assembly.

in my opinion, most of the time people don't want to bother with re-shimming the pivot ball after they install the transmission. or they simply overlook it in the process/excitement of putting the car back together. to the OP, could you get us a picture of the way the clutch fork looks coming out of the transmission?
 

toybreaker

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Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
^^^ good post! ^^^

... After getting schooled by the damn link at the end of the clutch rod, (the one that actually pushes on the slave from inside the car) being loose and taking away needed travel ...

I triple check that first.

The last three or four have all been toast.

Repairing the linkage by welding the arm to the shaft and replacing the bushing returned the system to an unbelievably sweet level of operation.
 

donkeylips

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Jun 18, 2009
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552
Location
Rochester, NY
Someone did bend a clutch fork locally. I think he posted a picture but I don't have the time to find it.
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
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Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Pics or didnt happen.

I don't see how it's remotely possible to BEND a factory mitsu clutch fork for a W5M33 transmission.

(i suppose with a torch, and getting it red-hot enough, it's possible)
 
Last edited:
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