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First time engine rebuilt question # 1 with lots of pics

kooter

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Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
So finally getting around to it.
Engine was pulled a little over a year ago. 1991 gvr4.
Completely stock. Bought with 98,000 miles. It was driven from atlanta to illinois without issue. Some noise from a/c compressor. But hey that is not an issue.

Basic idea here is I want to rebuild this car as close to just rolled off the assembly line. Now keeping in mind I have wanted one since I was a much younger man, Not forgetting that go fast is addictive. I am interested and looking to make this as near mint as I can and do some minor modification's along the way. Best guess is 300 hp would suit me just fine. But. Now I say again BUT I can also see the appeal of going bigger. You know because the people you know and work with think they have the fastest car. Let's show them the glory of the galant...


Enough babble.

engine is on the engine stand. First thing I see to do. Remove the head and send it to the machine shop.

My question. Your suggestion's.

What do I replace?
what do I ask them to do?

I am not above the idea of replacing everything but the head casing.
Right now all I know for sure is make sure I have the updated lifter's. Even if I do I plan to replace them also.

So just looking to get myself out there and get some good advice.




 
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yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
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803
Location
san diego california
take head to machine shop ask them to check compression and resurface..
take block apart and take pistons/rods,crank,and block to machine shop tell him to check pistons and rods, tell him to polish crank, and tell him you want to hone the block..

go home order new bearings, rings and a gasket set, maybe some arp's and get to work when parts arrive!
 

kooter

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Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
The block will be going shortly. Right now I am just working on the head. Already have arp head stud's.

Right now I am just interested to know should I
get new valve's or just valve job?

If I get new updated lifter's do I need Cam's and valve's as I thought they sorta ware into each other?

I am going to have them tear it down completely and clean it so new valve seal, kinda figure why not do as much as I can right.

Is there some place that might sell everything I need wrapped up in a nice little kit?

Also I thought I saw somewhere that our crank's are coated and shouldn't be polished? Or perhaps it was shouldn't be ground or cut ?
 
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yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
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803
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san diego california
they can be polished not ground or cut due to the nitrate coating,
updated lifters can go with stock valvetrain,
i wouldent redo valve stem seals unless machine shop says so, ( they will tell you if you need new valves or anything, which you probably wont,these motors are tough)
yes type in gasket kit into google shopping and pick the one that meets your needs..partsdinosaur.com sells a full engine gasket set and a build your own gasket set start there im ordering this gasket set next time click
 

dammitjim

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Oct 11, 2011
Messages
312
Location
WI
Quoting kooter:
modification's
suggestion's
lifter's

some good advice.



don't use the apostrophe like this
 

kooter

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Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
Sorry I do love them things. I appologize for my bad grammar and complete lack of understanding when it come's to punctuation.
 

kooter

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Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
I have a mitsu gasket set. I was actually thinking a kit with.
cams, valves, lifters, springs, seals, guides, retainers. all the internals.
 

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Quoting dammitjim:
Quoting yeti:
arp's




/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif


I was actually asking, i'm not the best with proper grammar.

^probably a few mistakes right there
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Quoting kooter:
I have a mitsu gasket set. I was actually thinking a kit with.
cams, valves, lifters, springs, seals, guides, retainers. all the internals.



you are looking to spend money that doesent need spending,

if you want you can ask partsdino if he has a kit like this im sure he would have no problem helping you out..

if you want a FULL BUILD, then go all out buy forged internals,all arp hardware,mls gaskets,evo springs and retainers,SS valves,bad ass cams,3g lifters. all that good stuff
dont forget a nice turbo to beat on that engine /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif...

or

Do what i recommended the first time for a budget build that WILL hold 400hp no problem...
 

kooter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
Quote:


if you want a FULL BUILD, then go all out buy forged internals,all arp hardware,mls gaskets,evo springs and retainers,SS valves,bad ass cams,3g lifters. all that good stuff

This is more what I was looking for.
Sorry I am don't make sense sometimes. I want to replace everything. So that when I am all done I know she is 100 % perfection.
What I do not know is what is the better parts to use. Other then just stock. Also suggestion's as to sourcing these parts.
 

dammitjim

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Oct 11, 2011
Messages
312
Location
WI
Quoting yeti:
I was actually asking, i'm not the best with proper grammar.


Ok, apostrophes are correct in contractions or if something is owned by something: Don't step on that dog's balls. The dog owns the balls. When in doubt just don't use them and you'll probably get it right.

Sorry for the thread jack.
 
Last edited:

DynastyLCD

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Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
Quoting yeti:
take head to machine shop ask them to check compression and resurface..
take block apart and take pistons/rods,crank,and block to machine shop tell him to check pistons and rods, tell him to polish crank, and tell him you want to hone the block..

go home order new bearings, rings and a gasket set, maybe some arp's and get to work when parts arrive!



the machine shop does not check compression of the cylinder head. they can do a pressure test, which will tell you if there's any cracks, or leakage elsewhere within the head itself. they can also check how well the valves seal. since you plan to replace those, ill give you my suggestion. i agree with what yeti says but ill add in my parts, and be more specific.

head work at machine shop:
resurface for metal HG
thorough cleaning
pressure test
valve job
valve seal replacement
valve guide replacement
install springs (choose springs with cams)

parts needed for head:
3mm revised lifters
SS std size valves (or 1mm over if you don't mind spending extra for machine work)
new valve guides
all of the above can be found here for a good price
Mitsubishi MLS gasket
your choice of camshafts (HKS 272 would be good all around, IMO)
your choice of springs (a good aftermarket single spring would be minimal for these, IMO)
supertech valve seals
exhaust manifold stud kit (unless they're all good... usually not the case.)
magnus phenolic intake manifold spacer
OEM 4 ply exhaust manifold gasket
your choice of intake/exhaust manifolds
OEM cam seals

block work at the machine shop:
bore out cylinder walls (if choosing aftermarket oversized pistons
hone cylinder walls (if choosing stock size pistons)
hot tank
resurface block deck
clean gasket surfaces
polish crankshaft
remove balance shaft bearings, spin them to block off oil ports

block parts:
aftermarket rods and pistons/rings
or keep stock, order new rings
ACL tri metal main and rod bearings
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
new OEM Mitsubishi front case/oil pump and gears (don't mess with aftermarket...)
front case, oil filter housing, water pump, rear main seal gaskets
OEM rear main seal and new case
new water pump
spectre oil pan (can be found at rockauto for around $60 IIRC)

that should be about it. i used the engnbldr valves in one of my builds and had no issues. sealed very nicely, and all i did was lap them into the head. if you were going to do everything on this list, you would probably be better off buying forged rods and pistons, as this is covering pretty much everything. again, this is all my opinion on stuff, not trying to write the definite how-to. just my .02
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Nice, continue your hard work.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

Some ecouragement always help...

Turbo looks to be good with no cracks,is your exhaust manifold cracked?

Also.keep track of bolts bag everything no madder how little i lost a good 3 bolts and delayed me a whole day searching for them i just went and bought replacement
 

kooter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
270
Location
carpentersville, IL
thank you.

I did not see any cracks. I honestly didn't look. Got to were I am and had enough. It was a hot one today.
I will be getting a new ex mani. So any suggestions welcome. Was guessing either a 2g or maybe evo. Though I head evo needs to be slightly trimmed. Would have to look farther into that.

This is my first time doing this. The entire time I was doing the removal was remember were this goes and DAMN I should just get a new one. I love new clean shiny parts.

Also ex mani bolts are straight rusted so I soaked them in pb blaster and called it a day.
 
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