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First Time Build: 995/1000


desant78
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1662/2000
995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1060689 posted 04/05/12 12:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hello gvr4.org

I purchased 995/1000 for $3000 in late December, and picked a larger intercooler, DNP exhaust manifold and FP3065 for an extra $500Ödidnít need the parts but how could I say no to that price?

When I bought the car, I picked it up with a slight brake issue. The slight brake issue was the passenger side brakeline was never attached to the strut, and rubbed against the tire until the line burst. Fixed the issue and drove the car for one weekend before I started tearing it apart.



This is the only picture I have of the car before the build, which is on the side of the road because I blew off an I.C. pipe and had to wait for a friend to come by with tools. This is the gf(who secretly supports this) having a blast as my new venture makes it ten feet down the road and leaves us stranded for 40 mins.

After this weekend, on a ride to my house the clutch started slipping real bad. I have been buying parts for a while, and being a newb always wanted to build for two reasons

1. peace of mind, to start with a strong platform
2. the learning expierence, Iím a hands on learning, and felt it was time to do some serious learning.

I rent a barn that was built in the mid 1950ís, which is now surrounded by a housing development. I have friends that when they were children (Iím 23) the barn was in the middle of an empty field that they farmed.





It's just enough space for what I am doing, and beats working in the rain.

So that is the background on me and the build, and the plan is

New Timing belt and components
Balance Shaft elimination
Fix oil Leak (pictures and explanation will follow)
Fix torn CV boats
ABS Delete
New IC piping and new IC
ACT 2600 and StreetLite Flywheel
FP Race Exhaust Manifold
Cyclone Intake Manifold
Evo III 16g
KeyDriver Stage 3 Chip
Caps replaced in ECU
New Tie Rods
Revised Lifters
Wideband
Oil Pressure Gauge

A compression test was between 153 and 158 across all four.

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (68.36.11.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

desant78
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995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1060694 posted 04/05/12 12:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I got some equipment and much to my surprise I got the engine out!

Picture of engine out

So the old Mitsubishi tradition held true, and found problems that were unknown to me.

1. transfer case is missing drain plug and has been damaged by flywheel.



2 transmission was missing a bolt on the bottom, which I assume caused this crack. Is this repairable with some jb weld? Or is it best to get a news trans? I think jb weld is a bad idea, but a few people have suggested it.



3. I noticed this when I the car home, this bad boy had a 13g turboÖcranked to 18psi. which is exactly why I thought the car was slow.

4. Oil leak is worse than I thought, so I hope all the new gaskets will help. The oil pan didnít have a gasket! Just RTV! Is this a big ďno noĒ or am I just naÔve?





5. Removed the timing components, front case, and head (as per the technical manual).

6. Any opinions on my cylinder head and pistons? I think itís odd how some pistons are darker from what I assume is oil and others are a light color. Also the valves seems very rough, is this normal?







7. Purhcased some paint and simple green, and painted the block.



So that brings me up to date, opinions, suggestions, pointers are all welcome. I donít really have any friends in the car game, so I am solely doing this build based on what I have learned from the inter-webs.


thanks in advance!

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (68.36.11.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

jmorri15
Member
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1060713 posted 04/05/12 06:07 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
2)transmission was missing a bolt on the bottom, which I assume caused this crack. Is this repairable with some jb weld? Or is it best to get a news trans? I think jb weld is a bad idea, but a few people have suggested it.
I would not use jb weld on a trans like that. you should be able to pick up a bell housing from someone who blew up a gear or two and simply throw that on.
4)Oil leak is worse than I thought, so I hope all the new gaskets will help. The oil pan didnít have a gasket! Just RTV! Is this a big ďno noĒ or am I just naÔve?
Quite a few factory service manuels call for rtv as the only thing on the oil pan, off hand i do not remember for the 4g63s but i know the Nissan ka24de calls for straight rtv. you should be fine with just rtv if it is done correctly.
6) those valves dont look awful. did you do a compression and leakdown test before ripping into the block?



2016 Mazda6 GT
2014 Chevy Volt (Totaled)
2013 Buick Regal GS (Sold)
2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V (Sold)
1994 3000GT SL (Sold)
1995 3000GT SL (Sold)
1992 GVR4 424/1k
1998 Ford Escort (Sold)
1996 Ford F-150

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desant78
Member ++
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995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1060781 posted 04/05/12 05:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^thanks for the feedback, I did do a compression test and was around 153 to 158 across all four, so I was in the factory specs.

After doing some research, and considering the engine seemed fine before I pulled it, my plan is to sea-foam the engine to get rid of the carbon build up since I am not removing the pistons.

this weekend will be shot, but next week I hope to get the headgasket installed (with ARP hardware) and finish the B.S. delete and install the front case and OFH gaskets (awaiting these gaskets)

any tips/suggetions outside of what the service manual says to do?



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)


Edited by desant78 (04/05/12 05:38 PM)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (138.162.0.43) | Report this post to a Moderator

desant78
Member ++
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995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1061394 posted 04/09/12 02:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
after reading the vfaq many times, I am curious how everyone handles this issue.



I understand that I will have a massive oil leak if I do not address this. Vfaq solution calls for installing the old bearing (lame) or find a shorter bolt. I am assuming the seal created by the short bolt head plugging the hole, correct me if I am wrong.

I am going to try and use a smaller bolt, and use RTV as suggested by vfaq, just wondering if anyone else has any personal suggestions on how to handle this.

thanks!

Picture courtesy of Vfaq

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desant78
Member ++
1662/2000
995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1066415 posted 05/09/12 12:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So this build has been going slow...I have been triple checking what I do with research before I do much of anything in order improve my odds of success.

I installed the new OEM head gasket, ARP head studs, replacement b.s. bearings.

Tonight, I prepped the oil pump so I can install the front case tomorrow. I read that you should pack the oil pump with bearing grease. Did I do this correctly? I have never done this so any help is appreciated.



sorry about the crappy picture, I had to use the camera on my laptop.

Also in the service manual I had issues finding a torque for the oil pump. I found torque specs for the 1.8L oil pump and torque for the front case of the 2.0L, which I might use if I can't find a torque.

thanks in advance!

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (68.36.11.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

123abc
Member
1945/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1066697 posted 05/11/12 10:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Personally I would use assembly lube, not bearing grease but I'm not too experienced with engine rebuilding.

Posts: 144 | From: Winona, MN | Member Since: 03/02/07 | IP: (8.24.101.67) | Report this post to a Moderator

Noobsauce
Member
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1066700 posted 05/11/12 10:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I've used grease, vaseline,assm lube. All work good.

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desant78
Member ++
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995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068074 posted 05/22/12 12:01 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here's an update:


Got the Stub shaft and Oil Pump Cover installed. I could not find ANYWHERE a torque spec, so I decided that it was a "firm" torque. correct me if I'm wrong.





Installed front case and OFH. Used a little RTV to hold the gasket in place, which worked like a charm. Got the tip via vfaq, and made working alone so much easier. Installed all the timing components, ready for the timing belt now.


Off 1662, got a "Because Race Car" fuel rail, which I'll be honest looks better, so I want to use. Anyone have tips for plugging the gauge? I want to remove it since I feel it will be a source of failure, but don't know if just a bolt is any different. I almost want a bolt with an o-ring, but I might be over thinking this. I'll take any suggestions on how to handle this.











I got the cyclone intake manifold together, got great gaskets from JNZ tuning. I have a call out to all the other cyclone owners, I am having serious issues torquing/reaching a few bolts. Anyone run into this problem? I got a long piece of all thread and cut it to length. Suggestions on reaching these bolts? I can get to them, just the nut is so close to the manifold that the socket can't go over it.




This stud has made my life Hell for 3 days now. I did not notice it(lesson learned), and am paying for it now. With the head off, I could used a mill to easy remove it. the previous owner had two small holes drilled, and the surface is not flat. it is about 2-3 threads below the surface of the head, and I am having trouble drilling it out by hand. The plan was an easy out and I have even set up a drill press set up, but I can't for the life of me drill into the middle of the stud to use the easy-out. With that in mind and looking at the condition of the threads, I want to drill it out and tap it for an M10 x 1.5 stud, which will require a 8.5mm drill bit. Suggestion on this? Anyone know the SAE drill size that would work instead of a 8.5mm drill bit? Or is this a bad idea and I need to find a 8.5mm bit.


thanks in advance! I truly appreciate the help

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (68.36.11.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

desant78
Member ++
1662/2000
995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068075 posted 05/22/12 12:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Noobsauce:

I've used grease, vaseline,assm lube. All work good.




thanks for the help!



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (68.36.11.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

desant78
Member ++
1662/2000
995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068081 posted 05/22/12 02:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Update: upon research Im planning on using a helicoil.



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (68.36.11.250) | Report this post to a Moderator

RedTwo
Rangi Kiwi


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068238 posted 05/23/12 03:08 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Mismatched cam gears. Interesting....

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desant78
Member ++
1662/2000
995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068288 posted 05/23/12 12:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^i never noticed until now. Should I change this? I don't see how it would affect anything.



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (138.162.0.43) | Report this post to a Moderator

Noobsauce
Member
1865/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068301 posted 05/23/12 01:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
my cars the same way.

Posts: 159 | From: Beaverton, Oregon | Member Since: 04/07/12 | IP: (98.232.240.83) | Report this post to a Moderator

BadVr4
wanted a different answer
801/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068302 posted 05/23/12 01:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
try using a reverse thread drill bit on the broken bolt. they have worked great for me in the past and you shouldn't have to use a heli-coil afterwards.

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068306 posted 05/23/12 03:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Try the reverse bit.

Dont use a helicoil. Just tap it out for the larger (2g style) stud and put it in there. I do this to all the 1g heads i come across anyhow. Helps keep the gasket sealed a lot better, and prevents breakage like you've got there.

Also, oil pans dont use gaskets on our cars. ONLY use the grey permatex RTV for your engine. This includes the oil pan. This is the same thing the mitsu dealership techs use.

I hope that stub shaft you have for the BSEK has an oil groove in it. If it doesn't get a different one. EDIT: i can see in the photo, it looks like one of the "good" ones.

A short bolt there in the front case is a good idea.

It's also best practice to at least take the balance shaft out of the front of the engine, knock the bearings out, turn them 180 degrees, put them back in, and put a freezeplug with permatex in the old hole so nothing will leak out.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster


Edited by mitsuturbo (05/23/12 03:16 PM)

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desant78
Member ++
1662/2000
995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1068324 posted 05/23/12 06:00 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^thanks for the tip, I will try the reverse drill bit if not, I'll go with the tapping the bolt to an M10 (which I believe is the 2g head).

I Should also note that both front BS bearings were removed and replaced with new bearings, 180 degrees from the original position.

thanks for the feedback!

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desant78
Member ++
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995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1084852 posted 09/10/12 05:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok guys, I had been very busy lately helping out friends and family, but now I'm focused trying to make it to East Coast MOD. As of Saturday at about 430am, the engine was finally back in the car. I am hoping to finish the IC piping and possible new water pump (since I was a fool) before friday to start the car friday night.

Any tips for starting a car with all the new stuff I have? Esp concerned about

1. new composite head gasket
2. new arp head studs
3. new exhaust manifold.

Plan is to prime the motor with oil by pulling the MPI fuse and spark plugs. Let the motor crank and hopefully this will prime the motor. Then I will start the car, let it warm up (run for 5 min), then perform an oil change. After that I will slowly and gently begin the 500 mile break in period for the clutch. I have never done this before, so any tips or re-torquing anything let me know, or suggestions for the break in period of the clutch.


thanks again!



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (138.162.0.45) | Report this post to a Moderator

DynastyLCD
Dissapointing Member
73/1000
881/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1084853 posted 09/10/12 05:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sal, make sure you re-torque all the head studs to spec after the first heat cycle. also, i always re-check torque of the exhaust manifold studs, and the exhaust manifold to turbo bolts. i like to do those after the first drive.

good luck brother!!!



- Phil

'92 Galant VR4 - 881/1000 - 2.0/FPgreen daily
'92 Eagle Talon TSi - 2.3/3052/1600's/killmode.
'05 Honda TRX450r - pack-a-punched woods weapon
You call down the thunder, and i'll reap the whirlwind.

Posts: 761 | From: Harwinton, CT | Member Since: 05/12/06 | IP: (75.21.25.158) | Report this post to a Moderator

LIV4PSI
dyslexic 1051
1501/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1084864 posted 09/10/12 06:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting desant78:


So the old Mitsubishi tradition held true, and found problems that were unknown to me.




It is a tradition


First time I've check the build out. Great job for being a first build! Good luck getting it fired up.



-Craig
1501 Build Thread



Edited by LIV4PSI (09/10/12 06:52 PM)

Posts: 1761 | From: O-H-I-O | Member Since: 11/24/11 | IP: (98.22.225.4) | Report this post to a Moderator

desant78
Member ++
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995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1087847 posted 10/01/12 03:46 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Ok guys, so I started up the car finally at 3:50 am Saturday morning, and I am having some issues.

I have an idling issues, I am surging and believe that I am mis-firing. The idle seems very rough. The TPS was adjusted per vfaq, idle screw set to 2.5 turns out. The CAS was not adjusted because I did not have the car on for very long.

I have large oil leak coming from the front case area, which I notcied due to the belt becoming saturated. only a half inch of the belt, the side closest to the front case, was wet.

Noticing the leak, and the oil flowing out of the bottom of the lower timing belt cover, I turned the car off.

Current Plan: Remove Lower Timing belt cover, inspect and clean front case area. TRIPLE check spark plug wires. Turn car on and try to visually see where leak is coming from. I am also draining the gas and putting in new gas, it has been sitting since Jan.

Just in case I already order a new front case gasket, OFH gasket, front main seal and oil shaft seal.

When I did the BS delete, I left the BS sprocket and did not use the spacer (which to me looked too thin to replace the sprocket). Is this a problem?

The timing belt does not look damage, so I assume I used right oil pan bolts under it.


I will post updates as they occur. Feel free for random tips, opinions, etc. If I replace teh front case gasket, the engine will be in the car.

thanks!



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (205.67.232.56) | Report this post to a Moderator

desant78
Member ++
1662/2000
995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1087850 posted 10/01/12 03:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Also the car pasted a boost leak test (10 psi in system) with a slight leak off the j-pipe. I am addressing that issue and will re-test system.

Using the AFPR I adjust pressure to 37.5 with the vaccumm unplugged (and the vac line plugged by a friend). once at 37.5 I turned off the car, and attached the vac line.

thanks!



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (205.67.232.56) | Report this post to a Moderator

DynastyLCD
Dissapointing Member
73/1000
881/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1087867 posted 10/01/12 05:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
hey Sal, first and foremost, congradulations man!!!!!

one time a couple years ago, i had a similar problem. my oil leak back there came from that castle plug, the o-ring behind it had cracked and gone bad. a crank seal could have the same effect too. what i did to find my problem, i started the car with the timing cover off. just make sure you have the crank pulley bolted on.

the BS sprocket is fine in there. i never bought that spacer, i always ran it the way you did.

if you have to replace the gasket in the car for the front case, you might find that unbolting the front crossmember (where the front engine mount attaches to) gives you the extra little bit of clearance to make life a lot easier. a few years ago, i helped a friend do a BS delete in the car on his 1g, doing this helped us out clearance wise.

but most importantly... congrats on getting the GVR4 back to life!!!



- Phil

'92 Galant VR4 - 881/1000 - 2.0/FPgreen daily
'92 Eagle Talon TSi - 2.3/3052/1600's/killmode.
'05 Honda TRX450r - pack-a-punched woods weapon
You call down the thunder, and i'll reap the whirlwind.

Posts: 761 | From: Harwinton, CT | Member Since: 05/12/06 | IP: (75.15.28.29) | Report this post to a Moderator

desant78
Member ++
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995/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1088526 posted 10/05/12 03:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
^thanks Phil! I appreciate the kind words.

Last night I investigated the problem, the water pump is leaking along with Oil from the Oil pump. after a few seconds oil comes bleeding out behind the oil pump sprocket, but the castle bolt is still dry.

Suggestions for changing the oil seal in the car? I plan on using the old timing belt to loosen the sprocket to access the oil seal. Also tips for the water pump install? I just grey mitsu rtv on both side.

Opinions, and tips always welcome.


thanks!



i wanna go fast.

1991 GVR4 1662/2000 (parts car)
1992 GVR4 995/1000 (JSB)
2008 Evo X GSR (DD with bolt ons, 17x,xxx miles)

Posts: 732 | From: Clarksboro, NJ | Member Since: 06/23/10 | IP: (138.162.0.43) | Report this post to a Moderator

DynastyLCD
Dissapointing Member
73/1000
881/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1088714 posted 10/06/12 07:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Sal, make sure the bolt going through the water pump to hold the alt. bracket isn't loose. that will give you a coolant leak as well.

i think you've got the right strategy using the belt to hold the sprocket while you loosen the nut. good luck buddy!



- Phil

'92 Galant VR4 - 881/1000 - 2.0/FPgreen daily
'92 Eagle Talon TSi - 2.3/3052/1600's/killmode.
'05 Honda TRX450r - pack-a-punched woods weapon
You call down the thunder, and i'll reap the whirlwind.

Posts: 761 | From: Harwinton, CT | Member Since: 05/12/06 | IP: (75.15.28.29) | Report this post to a Moderator


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