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I have a problem with my new battery placement.

i moved my battery to my trunk an now it just kills my battery if anyone knows what my problem might be can you please help
 
Last edited by a moderator:

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
You didn't have to make a new thread, just rename your original.
 

the past few days on here its like some poeple in charge here treat you like a child
 

AnotherNewb

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
Not like a child, we just expect you to communicate like an adult. Don't worry, all noobies go through an adjustment period when they join this forum, everyone else has.

We expect proper grammar, remember the first step to a misunderstanding is communication. If the people reading your post have a hard time deciphering your sentences they will exert less effort in trying to help you.

Think of it this way. When you use poor sentence structure and spelling you get this:
My car has had this problm that jsut start today. It clicks them winds oevr reel slow.

Put some effort into your post and people will be more apt to help you. If you suck at spelling, find a free IE spell checker, google it... If you read your post after you post it and see lot of mistakes, take the time to edit your post.

No one is hazing you, these things are what sets us apart from the DSM forums. Great guys here with a wealth of information that is here for the asking. BTW, your other post on this same topic has a place for you to start diagnosing.
 

CSMShaun

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
129
Location
Cincinnati, OH
By "kills my battery" do you mean that the actual measured voltage at the battery is low or the starter simply will not turn?

Quite often with battery relocations the supply wire to the front of the car is not capable of carrying the requisite amperage to the starter. Another common mistake is using a less-than sufficient battery when doing the relocation.

I would suggest using 0 gauge wire and at least a 750 Cold Cranking Amperage battery. Autozone sells gell-cell batteries behind the counter for arouns $150 that are perfect for the job.
 

talontyme

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
329
Location
Portsmouth,VA.
Got 2 gauge wire on mine and a bs autozone battery worked great that way,but I just upgraded to a optima red top
and redid the power wire to shorten it less is more in that mod.
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting CSMShaun:
By "kills my battery" do you mean that the actual measured voltage at the battery is low or the starter simply will not turn?

Quite often with battery relocations the supply wire to the front of the car is not capable of carrying the requisite amperage to the starter. Another common mistake is using a less-than sufficient battery when doing the relocation.

I would suggest using 0 gauge wire and at least a 750 Cold Cranking Amperage battery. Autozone sells gell-cell batteries behind the counter for arouns $150 that are perfect for the job.



More commonly overlooked than a good cable to the front, is a good solid ground. You can run 2" thick wire from a 1100cca battery to some terminal, and if it's not properly grounding, you will run into all sorts of problems.
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
run 0 gauge for power and ground. i started with 4 gauge to the engine bay and 4 gauge to a ground in the trunk and it sucked. upgraded to 0 gauge power line to the engine, and 4 gauge ground in the trunk and it worked well untill my car stopped starting. i now run 0 gauge power line to engine bay and 0 gauge ground to the engine bay and starts up perfect, cranks like the battery is still in the engine bay
 
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