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gvr4 want hold charge

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
cars been sitting for about 5 months owner said there was some backfiring
he aid he ws driving it and the battery wont hold a charge he said he thinks its the alternator
i was wondering how hard is it to change an alternator i figure the hardest part is the serpentine belt how do u put it on and take it off? along with the whole alternator
the car has act 2 clutch upgraded turbo to ?? and has rebuilt engine with 66,000 miles on it for
2,200 obo
is it a good deal and if so am i better off changing the alternator myself or having someone do it for me?
 

misfitsnemesis

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
72
Location
bristol TN
big thing is if it just the alt you will be able to start the car and hear run. Cause they are normally hidden problem owner not telling you. But i have bought a 1Ga car that was messed up for parts and all it needed was new plugs and wires and it fired right up with np drove it for a good while then sold it and made money on it. But i would start it with a good battery if ran good and moved would be something to look at.
 

shredder2010

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
59
Location
Racine,Wi
I just had my alt. go bad yesterday changed it out in about 2 maybe a bit less not a hard job if you have some mechanical skills. If not pull out the chilton manual and read. Its not to bad im sure you could do it
 

rgeier11

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Messages
726
Location
Chicago Suburbs, IL
Quoting misfitsnemesis:
big thing is if it just the alt you will be able to start the car and hear run. Cause they are normally hidden problem owner not telling you. But i have bought a 1Ga car that was messed up for parts and all it needed was new plugs and wires and it fired right up with np drove it for a good while then sold it and made money on it. But i would start it with a good battery if ran good and moved would be something to look at.



Allow me to translate.

Here's the deal fellow Galant owner, if it is solely the alternator that is your vehicle's issue, you will be able to start your car no problem. I have a hunch that there is a hidden problem that the previous owner neglected to inform you of. Many moons ago, I purchased a first generation DSM (with popup headlights for those interested) that I was going to use as a parts donor to another project I had. It turns out, the previous owner was an idiot and all the vehicle needed was new plugs and wires. I drove the car around and had a lot of memories. I then sold it for a profit on my investment. Enough about me already, I would start with a new battery if your car already runs well once running. If the car can drive around on it's own, it is definitely worth the $2,200.
 
Last edited:

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
i have the car in my driveway now and the car would not go faster than 65mph and when you increase the throttle more than that the boost gauge shot up to full but you don't get any pull it actually starts sputtering and cutting out

ALSO the car dies on it own most of the time it cant idle sometimes it will idle fine and then once you touch the gas it will go up in the rpm and then die on the way back down instead of stopping at 1000rpm's or so

i can hear waste-gate and blow off valve but they sound really faint i CANT hear the turbo spooling up though
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
sorry for re-posting over and over

but also the car has a front mount inter-cooler a 16g turbo and a 3inch exhaust
and the injectors are blue if it means anything
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
also just looked in fuse box i am missing fuse 15a(ecs) (ecs)i dont know what this means
im my friends 98gsx the same spot says (awd) (awd)
is this the same for my 1991 gvr4?
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
PULL THE ECU and check it out. Replace it with a known good one from a DSM or other GVR4 if you can, at least for testing purposes.
The not going over 65, sputtering and not making power, and boost gauge rising are things i have seen many cars with bad ECUs do.
 
Last edited:

496of2000

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2001
Messages
642
Location
San Diego, CA USA
1.Check the IC pipe hose clamps. Make sure they are tight.
2. Charge up the battery, to full. Then check to see if its charging.
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
i removed battery and got a full charge picked it up the car drove fine for 40 miles and still has power to start on the first try
the guy at kragen said the alternator is dead
and how much does a ecu cost cause i think i might be something like that
because
the car wont idle correctly jumps up and down really fast and sounds like the ecu is going crazy and other times the boost kicks in for a second and you fly then it cuts out cause it gets to full boost so fast
and the car cant idle in between shifts it try's to stall
i have messed with the idle and that fixes it until you drive
 
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