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Re: First time GVR4 owner 965/2000 (3xdsm owner) :)


Boostdtalon
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946033 posted 11/03/10 01:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sorry I meant I have 5 lug swap.

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BrandonEchols
Snow White
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946050 posted 11/03/10 02:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You can swap the 4-bolt LSD internals into the 3-bolt pumpkin, and use the 4-bolt axles, there's info on it somewhere in the How-To section, I think. I'll look around for it.
Edit - here are a couple threads with some info:
Click
Click

For a 5-lug rear, you can swap in the trailing arms from the 3000GT VR4, and they had 4WS, so you can keep that as well.
I'm not sure about keepting the ABS with the 3000GT trailing arms and 4bolt-in-a-3bolt housing though.

I'm also Very interested in hearing more about your Holset arrangement. I just picked one up locally, and I'm exploring the options with the VGT (mechanical vs. electronic, and what's available), so any info or advice would be awesome.


Edited by brandonechols (11/04/10 02:45 AM)

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946365 posted 11/04/10 11:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Boostdtalon- Gotcha my bad .......so you just swapped the hubs off say an eclipse? did everything bolt up? I ask because when I looked at some part numbers the rear hubs were different for the gvr4 then the t/e/l and i wasnt sure if that was only due to them being 4 lug or not.

brandonechols - Interesting so what was the benefit of using the vr4 trailing arms? What would I need to make that work (elcipse rear hubs or vr4 hubs?) I havent had alot of time to scrutinize the gvr4 rear end yet but im hoping to have some free time over the week end to find out better where my problem areas will be. I am just looking for the cheapest easiest way to retain AWS and goto a 5 lug......i'd like to have the 4 bolt strength but at the moment I am not too worried about it......however I did get a fairly complete rear subframe from a t/e/l with a 4 bolt when I bought the car
As far as the holset goes.....obviously if you can do it electronically thats the "best" way as you get alot more control and tunability with it....however with my setup i would have needed to flip the turbo around to get the electronics to fit......as a matter of fact I have a 3/4" spacer on my ex. manifold and had the grind the block down just a little b/c the ex.housing on the turbo was hitting....that turbo is huge lol. Basically what I did is I removed the electronics and took 1/8" steel plate to block off the water ports that coolled the electronics (still helps cool the rest of the turbo as I run it water and oil cooled). I then welded a stud onto the lever arm on the turbo that moves teh vanes, attached a rod from that to a linkage that I built. This linkage used one of the L brackets off a transmission shifter linkage, which had the small end attached to a 14-b wastegate actuator and the long end connected to the rod that goes to the turbo.....so as I boost it pushes the linkage which pushes the rod which makes the turbo "bigger"....not the most elegant solution but it seems to work. Evntually I will replace the wastegate actuator with a electronic linear actuator so I can have full control over when/where the vanes on the turbo open. I will try to find a couple of shots showing my contraptions in the next few days and upload them for you.

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BrandonEchols
Snow White
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946381 posted 11/04/10 12:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sounds interesting...thanks for the info.
Pics would be great...also, how did you have your FMIC set up? I'm curious about possibly using a top-to-bottom flow setup because of the elbow on the Holset's turbine housing.

The 3000GT trailing arms is fairly straight forward from what I've read, they swap right in, make your rear track about 10mm wider, and give you drum-in-disk for the handbrake.
All you have to worry about I think is the E-brake cable, but I think that's fairly easy.

RedTwo has done it, as have a couple other members...



What is hellaflush?

Mitsubishi = Must Involve Turbos, Suck Unless Boost Is Seriously High Inside

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chevyracer5613
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946748 posted 11/05/10 06:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
brandonecholes-On the eclipse I was running a evo3 FMIC and since the "j pipe" on the turbo points towards the RF wheel I made tubing the did a 90* bend went passed the radiator on the passenger side then did another 90*at the front bumper and ran down the left side of the front bumper till I got the the FMIC and made a 180*........... after the FMIC is your preference I was using a dejon intercooler tubing that made me come up where the old air box was. I will post a few pictures below of my linkage setup and how close the turbo is to the block. (3rd picture...make it bigger and peak between the exhaust ports)

So is the only benefit to using the 3kgt trailing arms is so that you can have a functional ebrake? again I havent looked very long underneath my car to understand the difficulties yet...but I will probably be doing some reasearch under the car tomorrow :-D

**update**
The engine now runs under its own power :-D.....I got a walboro 190 and 2-stage EBC for $90 locally so I swapped that in today......and drained the fuel tank since that fuel had been siting for I think 1.5 or 2 years.....anyhow here are a few pics.......note that I am currently NOT running a FMIC........mainly b/c I am going to be running low boost for a short while and I am sourcing a new front bumper so I didnt want to start making my intercooler tubing just to have to redo it lol. Also when I got the fuel pump it didnt have a sock so I went to autozone and get one for like $8.50 part number shown in pictures......I didnt get a wiring kit so I just took the old wires that had the 0-ring, chopped it off, and put two taps on it (one for postive and one for negative). I'd also like to note that my eclipse has a 255 in it and it is LOUD (and has no interior) when I cranked the car up tonight I couldnt even hear the pump....which I guess is good







yummy bucket of old fuel


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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946892 posted 11/06/10 04:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Small update.....I finally think I know where the drain is occuring on my batter.......as I was chekcing the engine for leaks I turn the motor off and still heard a small humming noise....as it turns out it seems to be from my alternator......I am doing a little reasearch now but it seems like when I swapped in the saturn/gm alternator there a particular wire, a sensing wire I think, that is supposed to be connected to a switched 12-v source...I guess mine wasnt and is slowly draining my battery. On a different note I found a little extra tubing and rerouted my air filter, pictures will follow below. Lastly I am doing a little research but after having to replace a coolant line on the back (for the heater core) I fired up the car with the t-stat wiring disconnected and had no CEL's....when I plugged it back in (with the car running) I got a CEL....I will have double check my wiring tomorrow. Since my turbo is too big for a stock style fan to go back on I am putting some smaller elecric fans on, I was/am wanting to tie it in to the factory harness so that it will turn off and on automatically as needed........I found the stock fan and cut the plug/harness/theromocouple? off and spliced it into my new fan....I couldnt find the sensor/port to plug the little white two wire cap in but after researching I think it plugs into the bottom of the radiator somwhere, however I have no idea where the harness is supposed to plug up for the 2nd fan unless its just hidden somewhere..........anyhow thats all the update for now.






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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947101 posted 11/07/10 03:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quick question........the tranny and xfer case in my eclipse matched and worked well........when I swapped the motor/tranny/xfer case to the gvr4 I was unsure if the rear gear was the same or not. My low budget test was to hold one wheel steady and spin the tire over one revolution.....when doing this I counted 1.75 drive shaft revolutions on both cars.......so is it safe to assume they have the same gear? (eclipse has 4 bolt...not sure if that helps or hurts.

Thanks!

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BrandonEchols
Snow White
477/1000
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947185 posted 11/08/10 01:22 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
To my knowledge all USDM GVR4s and DSMs had the same transmission and rear diff ratios, so any of the transmissions and diffs should interchange.



What is hellaflush?

Mitsubishi = Must Involve Turbos, Suck Unless Boost Is Seriously High Inside

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947225 posted 11/08/10 08:55 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Brandonechols- Awesome, although if I recall correctly I do think there is a difference in ratios between the automatics and manuals......although no gvr4's came automatic. Thanks for your response as I thought i'd double check since having one xfer lock up on me was one too many lol.

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BrandonEchols
Snow White
477/1000
12/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947272 posted 11/08/10 01:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's correct.
Sorry, I should've stated all manual transmission GVR4s and DSMs have the same ratios, at least stateside.
Overseas saw some different arrangements in final drive ratio of 3.909 , whereas ours is 3.545 IIRC.



What is hellaflush?

Mitsubishi = Must Involve Turbos, Suck Unless Boost Is Seriously High Inside


Edited by brandonechols (11/09/10 12:16 PM)

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947392 posted 11/08/10 09:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
bandonechols- Good info to know, thanks

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TurboTrader
Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947440 posted 11/09/10 12:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Awesome to see the progress so far! I was beginning to wonder if 965 would ever run and felt guilty every time I turned the key on 145 watching her sit since I didn't have the time.

I'm following this thread! Hopefully before soon we'll see a vid of you ripping down the street!

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947597 posted 11/09/10 05:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Turbotrader- Thanks for the kind words, I actually took a video early today of her running on jack stands...however it didnt turn out as good as a like (the video) however I will try to upload one in the next few days. As far as one going down the road...that might be a few more weeks lol........but all things in due time

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947799 posted 11/10/10 01:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
click
Alright so here is a quick video of the car running on jackstands, just to summarize the car: 1991 galant vr4, evo III motor, holset he351 vgt with mechanical control (oil and water cooled), currently no FMIC, GM MAFT (eventually speed density), custom 3" downpipe (thats the only exhaust currently on the car), front wheels converted to 5 lug...the rear soon enough, walboro 190 fuel pump, battery relocation to the back (not finished yet), saturn GM alternator (currently rewiring since it was draining the battery), dual oil filter relocation kit, evoIII front mount oil cooler and.........yes I know my spark plug cover says talon...i'll change it eventually :-P

a quick picture of the rims that are going on it


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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 950076 posted 11/17/10 04:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
In effort to maintain a sleeper look in the galant I orginally planned on doing a full Car pc and displaying my gages on their.......well between time and money (mostly money) and a trade oppurtunity that arose I know own a PLX dm-200 with the AFR and Boost modules............basically its a customizable all in own gage...I can display 4 parameters at once , view a time plot, numeric gage, dial gage or upload my own graphics.......I dont have the gage mounted yet because I am not sure where I want it but here are a few pictures with the different gages for AFR. Modules are currently located in center console.......sorry for crappy pictures/lighting.








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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 950078 posted 11/17/10 04:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Also I added power steering to the car.........currently the only leak is at the top of the pump where the high pressure line connects.......allegedly most people suggest crush washers even though they dont come stock.....i'll figure something out.

Also I got a AC compressor and bracket off a 91 mirage since hollander said the compressor would work...........well when I tried to bolt the bracket to my motor I quickly realized either I am blind or its not gonna fit, secondly the tensioner setup on it uses a v belt, my motor is setup for a ribbed belt...although I am sure I could change it if I wanted to. I didnt notice that on one of the eclipse's that I looked at the AC for it had a ribbed belt also, I wonder if I can use a t/e/l ac compressor bracket/tensioner with the mirage (allegedly the same as galant) compressor?

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RedTwo
Rangi Kiwi


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 950266 posted 11/17/10 11:10 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That gauge is pretty cool - I don't think it will be sleeper to the guy behind you though

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 950368 posted 11/18/10 09:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
RedTwo- Thanks....well the gage placement is causing a mental debate....mount it low and out of sight that is hard to look at when I am going fast, or make it easily visible to everyone :-P.....so many choices

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 964879 posted 01/22/11 03:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey everyone...I have been working on the car slowly over the past 2 months, been busy with school and trying to find some sponsors for my late model (asphalt circle track) but anyhow the car is almost road ready....I could put her on the road right now but i'd like to replace the RF outer tie rod end and i'd love to find some new rotors local (but thats harder then you'd think...no one seems to stock them). Also I bought a new FMIC for $75, had to make some brackets for it but aside from the good price the inlet/outlet is on the same side which make a world of difference when trying to route the IC tubing since the turbo is so large. I also mounted the oil cooler up front as you will see and finally mounted my dual oil filter relocation kit (uses mustang filters)....hopefully I can get some steel braided lines for it eventually. Lastly I finally decided where I want to mount the battery and now I just have to make a few brackets for it, after that its just cleaning up the interior (wiring/installing radio/maybe new seats???) and tuning it .

Here are a few pictures for yall.....also if anyone knows where a decent front bumper is at a good price local let me know....I am not a huge fan of mine being all cut up like it is......










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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 965087 posted 01/23/11 03:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
She is finally on the ground :-D.........perhaps ill drive her around some this week/weekend as she still needs some work done to her (mainly wiring stuff up then hiding the wires).......but she is finally off of jack stands :-D

Also I took a picture of the front motor mount that I made due to the large turbo (he351 vgt) and it being a evo3 motor....i'd of preferred to do it with a heim so I could adjust it but it should work for now.



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CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 965259 posted 01/24/11 11:19 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm too lazy to read through your whole thread. What are you doing for roll stoppers with a 7 bolt motor in there?



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!

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chevyracer5613
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 965442 posted 01/25/11 09:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
cutlassJim-Front roll stopper is pictured right above you...it is a piece of steel ............driver side motor mount was cut and welded to get the motor aligned right, rear roll stopped and pass. side mount are stock.
I had previously (with a smaller turbo) used a similar piece of steel that provided better support but my turbo is currently in the way so I had to use this...which will eventually get a little extra bracing or i'll switch to a adjustable heim joint.

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CutlassJim
poop load of room
1799/2000
1788/2000
935/1000
912/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 965447 posted 01/25/11 09:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Your front roll stopper is my ceiling? Kidding, I Fkn fail. That's what I get for browsing on the pooper at work. Is there provisions for a rear roll stop bracket on a 7 bolt motor?



ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded
I love my crazy mother!!!


Edited by CutlassJim (01/25/11 09:58 AM)

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cheekychimp Galant VR4.org Moderator
Director of Housing and Urban Development, and carbon/kevlar balls


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 965462 posted 01/25/11 11:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting chevyracer5613:


So is the only benefit to using the 3kgt trailing arms is so that you can have a functional ebrake? again I havent looked very long underneath my car to understand the difficulties yet...but I will probably be doing some reasearch under the car tomorrow :-D





Just to answer this, yes the main reason for doing this is to retain a functional e-brake whilst allowing you to fit larger rear calipers. The law here in Hong Kong requires me to have a cable operated e-brake to pass the annual tech inspection so this was really the only way around it.

That said other advantages of the swap are 5 lug hubs (although with a little machine work you can retain the 4 lugs if you wish) and it pushes the rear track out about 10-12mm each side. I'm not sure this significantly improves handling but the rear wheels on the stock rear end seem to tuck under the fenders far farther than the fronts do. The wider rear stance balances things back up nicely and gives the car a far more aggressive stance. I did this initially on my big build for the purpose of fitting four pot rear calipers but having seen the dramatic improvement in the stance, I will eventually do it with my daily even if I don't change the brakes on that car.



Getting old sucks ... but it sure beats the alternative !!!

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chevyracer5613
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 965463 posted 01/25/11 11:49 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
cutlassjim- I am using the stock gvr4 rear motor mount with no mods to the mount/block so yes

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