/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gifshould i do a 2.0 or a 2.3 stroker?
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Damnit man! You're making a lot of post & it's hard to keep up with you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif It's obvious to me that you're excited about your car & want to get it going pretty quickly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif. Here are a few things to figure out 1st:
1) What do you want out of your car?
2) Do you have the funds to get it done?
3) Where are you on maintenance?
For 90% of the guys on here, an Evo 3 16g is more than enough, 72 lb injectors, adj fuel pressure regulator, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Keydiver chip, Evo MAS, upgraded fmic with upgraded piping & upgraded exhaust all on the factory long block.
This is probably the most economical way to go for what I 'think' your goal is. This should net you 300-350 whp.
1) What do you want out of your car?
2) Do you have the funds to get it done?
3) Where are you on maintenance?
For 90% of the guys on here, an Evo 3 16g is more than enough, 72 lb injectors, adj fuel pressure regulator, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Keydiver chip, Evo MAS, upgraded fmic with upgraded piping & upgraded exhaust all on the factory long block.
This is probably the most economical way to go for what I 'think' your goal is. This should net you 300-350 whp.
Well I don’t need another drag car so I was thinking like 300hp. Yes I have the founds. I was even looking into getting an AMS short block, but I want do it myself, so that’s out. Maintenance on this car is amazing “bishop†a member on here was the second owner and man did he take care of #506/1000 if its not new it looks like it!
If you're not confident in the stock motor you can always do a compression test. These motors can make 500 whp with bolt-on mods. So if your goal is 300 whp, there's no need to build the or a motor.
ya look at my post "what are friends for" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
beigetsi
Active member
What should I build a 2.0l or a 2.3? Should I go with a 16g or a gt40? It's like asking what you should wear, you will get many opinons and go nowhere. It's all about what you want and the research you do. +1 on building the post count.
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I'm pretty sure I answered your question already /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Bottom line.. How much you got to spend?
$4500 give or take for the long block.
prove_it
Well-known member
Screw that, if you want 300whp then get a fresh shortblock, 2g pistons with 1g rods, new rings and all new gaskets. Get some BC 272 cams, leave everything else stock, get a new mitsu 16g (not from ebay they break in 10 miles) a 2g manifold and a full exhaust (an exhaust shop can build you a 2.5 inch full exhaust for 300-400 cash). Then get some evo injectors and a walbro 255 pump. Buy a Keydiver chip. That's about 3000 grand total there. Now you have 1500 left to put into some evo suspension, good used rims, a good detail job, freshen up the transfer case, trans, and rear diff. Get some new U-joints and wheel bearings. Bam then you have a nice clean VR-4 capable of about 350whp all day long. That's all you need. Don't spend 4500 on the engine and have a bunch of worn chassis parts on the car. What good is a bunch of power when your chassis can't handle it?
Terrance362
Well-known member
You really need to decide on what size turbo that you are going to go with, the reason for that is because you are going to be building your motor around that. There is a big difference between a big 16g and a Gt40. A big 16g is great for a daily and a good weekend drag car with supporting mods. There is just so much that you can do with a big 16g. Now here is a question? Do you think that later on that you might want more that 350hp to 400hp, if so you might want to consider good internals that will be able to take the abuse. Also keep in mind the cost of manifold, injectors,waste-gates, blow-off valves, intake manifolds, and more things. A big 16g is more than likely going to be you best bet, also think about the resell if you decide to go with another turbo set up later on. Just take you time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Hertz
Staff member
Quoting ilraceu:
Maintenance on this car is amazing “bishop†a member on here was the second owner and man did he take care of #506/1000 if its not new it looks like it!
Ah, we miss that guy. He's in Illinois right? Do you have any contact information for him? He's got some Mitsubishi books I need to get my hands on. /threadjack
Maintenance on this car is amazing “bishop†a member on here was the second owner and man did he take care of #506/1000 if its not new it looks like it!
Ah, we miss that guy. He's in Illinois right? Do you have any contact information for him? He's got some Mitsubishi books I need to get my hands on. /threadjack
NateCrisman
Well-known member
My short answer to this: you'll need a rollbar before you need to build a motor, and I'd suggest holding off even thinking about an engine build untill you have either a worn out shortblock with junk compression or toss it's cookies due to power overload.
Mike Rizzoti is going 10.1@141 on an untouched stock oem shortblock with a gt42 nearly 40psi if boost, 8000plus rpm. I'm going to run 10's on my shock 6bolt in a gvr4 and don't intend to build a motor even if I blow this one up with a tuning mistake.(just get another $200 shortblock and stick it in).
After really seeing how much these stock engines put up with over the years, I'm confident in saying that building a race motor for a street car is a gigantic waste of money. That is for a less than 600hp streetcar and assuming your stock motor is in good health.
Seriously, I built #139 from bare chassis with every single part getting attention in an OCD manor. There were 18 bolts I didn't touch:
8 rod nuts
10 main cap bolts
not a single other fastener on the car left untouched.
Mike Rizzoti is going 10.1@141 on an untouched stock oem shortblock with a gt42 nearly 40psi if boost, 8000plus rpm. I'm going to run 10's on my shock 6bolt in a gvr4 and don't intend to build a motor even if I blow this one up with a tuning mistake.(just get another $200 shortblock and stick it in).
After really seeing how much these stock engines put up with over the years, I'm confident in saying that building a race motor for a street car is a gigantic waste of money. That is for a less than 600hp streetcar and assuming your stock motor is in good health.
Seriously, I built #139 from bare chassis with every single part getting attention in an OCD manor. There were 18 bolts I didn't touch:
8 rod nuts
10 main cap bolts
not a single other fastener on the car left untouched.
Ya I have his email and phone number,I'll PM you his email if that works?
NateCrisman
Well-known member
I just read your "what are friends for" thread, yeah you need a motor.
I would still suggest against building a race motor, or building a motor all together. Save yourself a TON of cash and find a good running motor from a 1g dsm partout. You can usually find a complete longblock for about $750. If you want to be sure it's all good before putting it in, get a complete oem gasket kit ($200ish), a set of ARP headstuds ($95), Balance shaft elim kit ($35), and some new Timing belt parts (about $300 with a new water pump). If you want to go even more maintenance on it, take the head to a machine shop and have it "checked and decked" and a new set of valve stem seals installed (they come with the gasket kit).
I'v pulled these engines out of 100-150k mile cars all the time, cyl walls just about always have original crosshatching and the bearings are in great shape. I really think your more likely to end up with problems after machinework on the shortblock and new bearings than you are just getting a good shape used motor, putting in new gaskets, cleaning it up, and putting it in the car.
For 300-350hp that you seem to be interested in, spending $4000 on an AMS race motor with forged pistons/rods/arp everything is a complete utter waste of money. Spend $1300 on a freshened and cleaned oem motor and keep the remaining $2500+ for your power/handling mods that you will see a major benefit from.
JMHO
I would still suggest against building a race motor, or building a motor all together. Save yourself a TON of cash and find a good running motor from a 1g dsm partout. You can usually find a complete longblock for about $750. If you want to be sure it's all good before putting it in, get a complete oem gasket kit ($200ish), a set of ARP headstuds ($95), Balance shaft elim kit ($35), and some new Timing belt parts (about $300 with a new water pump). If you want to go even more maintenance on it, take the head to a machine shop and have it "checked and decked" and a new set of valve stem seals installed (they come with the gasket kit).
I'v pulled these engines out of 100-150k mile cars all the time, cyl walls just about always have original crosshatching and the bearings are in great shape. I really think your more likely to end up with problems after machinework on the shortblock and new bearings than you are just getting a good shape used motor, putting in new gaskets, cleaning it up, and putting it in the car.
For 300-350hp that you seem to be interested in, spending $4000 on an AMS race motor with forged pistons/rods/arp everything is a complete utter waste of money. Spend $1300 on a freshened and cleaned oem motor and keep the remaining $2500+ for your power/handling mods that you will see a major benefit from.
JMHO
hey I guess i should tell you why i need to build an engine. long story short something got into number 3 cylinder and took out the head and cylinder wall. so That's why I ask 2.0 or 2.3 I have a drag car so I'm sticking with the 20g I have I don't need more than 400hp. I have a 2g mas, wally 255, DMP manifold, 16g, (I have a 20g just not installed.) 550cc inj. SBC-id boost controller. if you wanna see pics of the damage I have a thread under newbie called "what are friends for"
prove_it
Well-known member
We've seen it. We know you need an engine. We know. Like I said spend a little on the engine and more on other things. Especially the transmission. Our trannies are the weakest link for anything over 300 horse. Most likely if you have 120k on it 2nd gear is about to go. Also you'll want a limited slip in the back.
We know what we are talking about and everyone here is going to tell you to get a fresh engine, mostly stock and spend the rest of your cash on the rest of the car. You can have a huge engine, but without the brakes, suspension, driveline, and a 20 year old car that is cleaned up, it's all worthless.
Oh and since your a noob I'm going to let you in on a secret, once you start a build it's not the big things that cost money, it's all the little things that add up. Fluids, bolts, sub-let work, machine work, hoses, belts, ball joints, etc. those add up fast, trust me. You can spend a hundred bucks on a handful of proper bolts for a mitsu.
We know what we are talking about and everyone here is going to tell you to get a fresh engine, mostly stock and spend the rest of your cash on the rest of the car. You can have a huge engine, but without the brakes, suspension, driveline, and a 20 year old car that is cleaned up, it's all worthless.
Oh and since your a noob I'm going to let you in on a secret, once you start a build it's not the big things that cost money, it's all the little things that add up. Fluids, bolts, sub-let work, machine work, hoses, belts, ball joints, etc. those add up fast, trust me. You can spend a hundred bucks on a handful of proper bolts for a mitsu.
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I have new GR2 shocks, BIG brake kit, braded steel brake lines, all new bushings everywhere, 4WS is rebuilt, trans is new from AMS its jdm so i can lock it in front weel drive.
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
Quoting NateCrisman:
My short answer to this: you'll need a rollbar before you need to build a motor, and I'd suggest holding off even thinking about an engine build untill you have either a worn out shortblock with junk compression or toss it's cookies due to power overload.
Mike Rizzoti is going 10.1@141 on an untouched stock oem shortblock with a gt42 nearly 40psi if boost, 8000plus rpm. I'm going to run 10's on my shock 6bolt in a gvr4 and don't intend to build a motor even if I blow this one up with a tuning mistake.(just get another $200 shortblock and stick it in).
After really seeing how much these stock engines put up with over the years, I'm confident in saying that building a race motor for a street car is a gigantic waste of money. That is for a less than 600hp streetcar and assuming your stock motor is in good health.
Seriously, I built #139 from bare chassis with every single part getting attention in an OCD manor. There were 18 bolts I didn't touch:
8 rod nuts
10 main cap bolts
not a single other fastener on the car left untouched.
I think aside from the eventual reliability issues, the best reason to build a motor is for driveability. Yeah, you can go damn fast on a stock six bolt, but the lack of low to mid range power versus a higher compression 2.0 or even 2.3/4 is awful- especially if you get spoiled on something that has that extra torque /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Now, that being said, i'm not going to suggest building a motor with aluminum rods, monster pistons, blah blah for every street car. That being said, a set of WisecoHD on eagles isn't that much more than doing 2g pistons, and it's a pretty good mod if your motor is tired and putting out low comp numbers anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
My short answer to this: you'll need a rollbar before you need to build a motor, and I'd suggest holding off even thinking about an engine build untill you have either a worn out shortblock with junk compression or toss it's cookies due to power overload.
Mike Rizzoti is going 10.1@141 on an untouched stock oem shortblock with a gt42 nearly 40psi if boost, 8000plus rpm. I'm going to run 10's on my shock 6bolt in a gvr4 and don't intend to build a motor even if I blow this one up with a tuning mistake.(just get another $200 shortblock and stick it in).
After really seeing how much these stock engines put up with over the years, I'm confident in saying that building a race motor for a street car is a gigantic waste of money. That is for a less than 600hp streetcar and assuming your stock motor is in good health.
Seriously, I built #139 from bare chassis with every single part getting attention in an OCD manor. There were 18 bolts I didn't touch:
8 rod nuts
10 main cap bolts
not a single other fastener on the car left untouched.
I think aside from the eventual reliability issues, the best reason to build a motor is for driveability. Yeah, you can go damn fast on a stock six bolt, but the lack of low to mid range power versus a higher compression 2.0 or even 2.3/4 is awful- especially if you get spoiled on something that has that extra torque /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Now, that being said, i'm not going to suggest building a motor with aluminum rods, monster pistons, blah blah for every street car. That being said, a set of WisecoHD on eagles isn't that much more than doing 2g pistons, and it's a pretty good mod if your motor is tired and putting out low comp numbers anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Lonewolf64
Well-known member
^^I don't really think that is an issue as long as the stocker is healthy^^. My motor feels great in the low-mod range and its chugging along at 175,000 miles. Granted I have a fresh head, but the block is untouched. Of course the E3 16g is also a midrange monster so that may help as well.
