What throttle body for GVR4?

Yes newbie question here.
What other throttle body will mate to GVR4.
I am looking to get one locally to remove the isc and plug the coolant line.
Would N/T throttle work ok? or not because of the TB elbow?
detail list would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SmoothCustomer]

It would work better, but you need to change your IC piping.

 

[prove_it]

If your car is stock and runs great, leave the isc and coolant line alone, especially if you live in a cold area. Your driveability will suffer for a gain of like 5 horsepower. Your stuck with the stock throttle body untill you change your intercooler pipes. After that replace the elbow with a 2nd gen eclipse throttle body elbow and your good. Also the stock 1st gen throttle body(the one that is stock) is a 60mm bore which is pretty big anyway. I would leave it all alone if I were you.

 

Quoting UltraVr4:
I am looking to get one locally to remove the isc and plug the coolant line.



What you do NOT want to do is delete the ISC. You will lose all idle control. If this is a fair-weather car, you can often get away with blocking off the FAIV and removing the coolant lines. But, in MN I would have to think twice about even that.

 

I think my ISC is going bad.
when car warms up and im on decel, I will get idle surg down below 400rpm when I quickly take the gear out and put in neutral. And sometimes of course it will die.
I disconnected the isc plug and started the car which idle around 1200rpm. plugged back in, it seem like problem was fixed for awhile.
I am looking for interchangeable throttle body that I can use.
Such as 2G or 1G turbo dsm's.
And yea, looking for throttle body that works with stock setup..

 

[Lonewolf64]

You can send your throttle body to Steve at the link below. He'll rebuild it for you, test/replace all the sensors, and bore it out to 63mm for a little more flow.

click

 

[iLLeffeKt vr-4]

Keep an eye out on the ecu. Sometimes when the isc goes bad or a short associated with it, it will also damage the ecu.

Removing the isc and fiav will eliminate a lot of idle issues. The only thing that will control it will be the BISS screw.

One big downside without the isc and fiav is that you'll have to keep your foot on the gas until the car warms up a bit. Every car is different so some require more time than others. Temperature will also affect it drastically. When I removed ythe lower part of my TB I had to keep my foot on the gas for about 30sec during summer time and about 1-2 minutes during the winter.

After I rebuilt the motor and went withBC 272/272 cams and had the tb bored out to 63mm along with the half shaft mod it didn't want to idle at all so I had to put the isc back in.

 

[prove_it]

to the original poster,

I hate to say it but you need to do some research and don't just jump in hacking and changing things. Typically when the ISC goes bad you get an idle surge that goes from about 900-1400 rpm, somewhere like that. It usually doesn't die. A loose vacuum line or port can do that, or an open atmosphere blow off valve.
Boost leak, vacuum leak, a bad adjusted base idle screw these sound more likely. You could also have a bad ecu.

But if you must, don't swap in a 2nd gen throttle, it has a 52 or 56mm bore(can't remember exactly but smaller). Get a 1st gen throttle body. There are plenty out there.

Any non turbo or turbo has the same stepper motor, you can try swapping that. 1st and 2nd gen are swappable.

While your at it check out vfaq.com you can find all this info on there.

 

[Hertz]

I'd also make sure you have the ground strap from intake manifold to throttle body, and intake to firewall. Then check the adjustment on the throttle closed/throttle position switch.

 

will do. I was thinking about grounding the TB.
Gotta new problem i need to post.