Im the proud owner of 1991 gvr4 #1807, White sunroof car- the car has sat for over 3 yrs, the gas tank has been flushed out and new fuel filter still will only run for 20-30 min then dies, after sitting for 5-10 min it will start again. looks to have the wrong computer in it #mb166262. I think this is for t/e/l/ awd. can I use it or do I need to find a gvr comp? or can I change the maf or wiring to make it work?
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New owner #1807
- Thread starterasmo
- Start date
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Welcome to the board!
The first mod you will be needing is most definately a logger, as it will allow you to read the datastream and locate any issues with what the ecu is "seeing".
To troubleshoot your problem, it would be best if you start with some basics.
A big help would be if you could post a pic of the ecu board, as it may still be on the original caps, or there may be damage from the previous caps leaking.
The t/e/l ecu will "work" in our cars.
The fuel trims will be a little off because the ecu isn't expecting the lower honeycomb to be missing, and the curb idle on the t/e/l units is a little lower.
These are small differences, and will not cause a problem such as you are describing.
That said, just because it says it's one number on the case, doesn't necissarily mean that's the number on the board, or that it's the correct unit. Posting up a pic of the board with the number on the harness connector body visible is worth a thousand posts on the subject. If it's really a 6262 series unit, the number on the connector should be 6578, (with a bonus if there's an "e" there for e-prom)
For the problem you are describing, I would check the ecu temp sender wiring at the thermostat housing. The wires there get brittle and break and then the ecu temp compenstation will be off, and it can lead to trouble like you are describing.
After that, check your coils, ignition transistor, and cas for issues with the harness/connectors and the like. Repair any bad wiring before replacing any components.
Definately check the whole car over and verify that the basic maintainance has been done. The t-belt is mission critical, and you should verify it has been done recently. If it hasn't it should be job #1, along with the caps in the ecu.
Good luck with the car, and welcome to the board. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The first mod you will be needing is most definately a logger, as it will allow you to read the datastream and locate any issues with what the ecu is "seeing".
To troubleshoot your problem, it would be best if you start with some basics.
A big help would be if you could post a pic of the ecu board, as it may still be on the original caps, or there may be damage from the previous caps leaking.
The t/e/l ecu will "work" in our cars.
The fuel trims will be a little off because the ecu isn't expecting the lower honeycomb to be missing, and the curb idle on the t/e/l units is a little lower.
These are small differences, and will not cause a problem such as you are describing.
That said, just because it says it's one number on the case, doesn't necissarily mean that's the number on the board, or that it's the correct unit. Posting up a pic of the board with the number on the harness connector body visible is worth a thousand posts on the subject. If it's really a 6262 series unit, the number on the connector should be 6578, (with a bonus if there's an "e" there for e-prom)
For the problem you are describing, I would check the ecu temp sender wiring at the thermostat housing. The wires there get brittle and break and then the ecu temp compenstation will be off, and it can lead to trouble like you are describing.
After that, check your coils, ignition transistor, and cas for issues with the harness/connectors and the like. Repair any bad wiring before replacing any components.
Definately check the whole car over and verify that the basic maintainance has been done. The t-belt is mission critical, and you should verify it has been done recently. If it hasn't it should be job #1, along with the caps in the ecu.
Good luck with the car, and welcome to the board. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Last edited:
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I'm very sorry to inform you that ecu is not a good match for your car.
It's a non e-prom from an automatic trans equipped 91-92 model year t/e/l turbo.
That really sucks, becuase the auto trans turbo cars had smaller injectors and ran a different fuel pressure.
It could *concievably* be used but the comps will be wrong. This could make tuning the car with an safc or other compensating device an excersize in frustration, as the base calculations will be waaay off, and there won't be any comp for the missing honeycombs.
It also has the original caps still installed, and although it's hard to tell from the pics, there does appear to be some staining around the caps. That's a sign the caps are seeping, and there may be some damage to the traces on the board...
So yea, pretty much total fail for use in a galant you care about... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I see a new ecu in your future, and if I may make a suggestion, it would be to contact keydiver. He has the best knowledge base on these ecu's of anyone in the business, and you will have zero issues dealing with Jeff.
Try and get one of his virgin 94 model e-proms, and then he can also cut you a cool guy chip to personilise the ecu to your particular set-up, and ship it installed in the ecu for a true plug and play deal. (The 94 ecu's are not plagued with the cap issue, so the board will be virgin )
Again, sorry to hear of this set-back. It sucks when people do that kind of sh*t. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
The good news is at least the car is in good hands now, and it sounds like it's just a matter of time before you get it sorted out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
edit pm Brandon (UtahGalant). He's just up the road from you, and he's a very capable young man if you need a hand with anything.
I'm very sorry to inform you that ecu is not a good match for your car.
It's a non e-prom from an automatic trans equipped 91-92 model year t/e/l turbo.
That really sucks, becuase the auto trans turbo cars had smaller injectors and ran a different fuel pressure.
It could *concievably* be used but the comps will be wrong. This could make tuning the car with an safc or other compensating device an excersize in frustration, as the base calculations will be waaay off, and there won't be any comp for the missing honeycombs.
It also has the original caps still installed, and although it's hard to tell from the pics, there does appear to be some staining around the caps. That's a sign the caps are seeping, and there may be some damage to the traces on the board...
So yea, pretty much total fail for use in a galant you care about... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I see a new ecu in your future, and if I may make a suggestion, it would be to contact keydiver. He has the best knowledge base on these ecu's of anyone in the business, and you will have zero issues dealing with Jeff.
Try and get one of his virgin 94 model e-proms, and then he can also cut you a cool guy chip to personilise the ecu to your particular set-up, and ship it installed in the ecu for a true plug and play deal. (The 94 ecu's are not plagued with the cap issue, so the board will be virgin )
Again, sorry to hear of this set-back. It sucks when people do that kind of sh*t. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
The good news is at least the car is in good hands now, and it sounds like it's just a matter of time before you get it sorted out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
edit pm Brandon (UtahGalant). He's just up the road from you, and he's a very capable young man if you need a hand with anything.
Last edited:
Accually the ECU is for a 1G DSM Turbo AWD (D27A.I'm going to assume you mistyped MB instead of MD. See Below.
1G DSM Turbo AWD (D27A)
Federal MT
(MNGFL4M) California MT
(MNGFL9M) Federal AT
(MRGFL4M) California AT
(MRGFL9M)
3/89-6/90 - MD145903
E2T34478
E742
3/89-6/90 - MD145902
E2T34477
E743
6/90-6/92 - MD166262
E2T36578
E931
6/90-6/92 - MD166263
E2T36577
E931
6/90-6/92 - MD165531
E2T36582
E932A 6/90-6/92 - MD165532
E2T36581
E932
7/92-5/93 - MD193299
E2T60878
EA01
7/92-5/94 - MD193295
7/92-5/93 - MD193300
E2T60882
EA02
7/92-5/94 - MD193296
E2T60881
EA02
6/93-5/94 - MD304484
E2T60879
EB21
6/93-5/94 - MD304485
E2T60880
EB22
91-93 model R129/R130 = ECU TYPE 1k Ohm resistors
1G DSM Turbo AWD (D27A)
Federal MT
(MNGFL4M) California MT
(MNGFL9M) Federal AT
(MRGFL4M) California AT
(MRGFL9M)
3/89-6/90 - MD145903
E2T34478
E742
3/89-6/90 - MD145902
E2T34477
E743
6/90-6/92 - MD166262
E2T36578
E931
6/90-6/92 - MD166263
E2T36577
E931
6/90-6/92 - MD165531
E2T36582
E932A 6/90-6/92 - MD165532
E2T36581
E932
7/92-5/93 - MD193299
E2T60878
EA01
7/92-5/94 - MD193295
7/92-5/93 - MD193300
E2T60882
EA02
7/92-5/94 - MD193296
E2T60881
EA02
6/93-5/94 - MD304484
E2T60879
EB21
6/93-5/94 - MD304485
E2T60880
EB22
91-93 model R129/R130 = ECU TYPE 1k Ohm resistors
Welcome and I would also get in touch with keydriver. I will be soon as my GVR4 had a 1st Gen NA FWD ECU in it.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif.
