So I did a couple quick searches and found some random information, but im sure someone can get me clear quick here. I am seeing a couple of options when purchasing this turbo that include porting and clipping. I believe I understand clipping to flow more air making more top end, but hurting acceleration? What does porting do? Do either of these require other parts to be direct bolt ups? Thanks guys! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
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IMO, you MUST get the turbine and wastegate area ported on the EVO3 16G to avoid boost creep issues. Clipping is not necessary, unless you're trying to run >24-25 psi with this turbo. If you want more boost than that, this is the wrong turbo for you.
I'm not trying to shatter records...just wanna go fast and do it quickly 
It sounds like I should opt for the porting. Thanks!
It sounds like I should opt for the porting. Thanks!
NateCrisman
Well-known member
Agree with Jeff:
If you don't do significant porting to avoid boost creep and just bolt one of these onto a car with typical exhaust/intake/fuel mods, your going to find yourself running 24-25psi from 5000rpm up since they tend to creep like crazy. Way too much boost for 91 to 93 octane pumpgas.
If you don't do significant porting to avoid boost creep and just bolt one of these onto a car with typical exhaust/intake/fuel mods, your going to find yourself running 24-25psi from 5000rpm up since they tend to creep like crazy. Way too much boost for 91 to 93 octane pumpgas.
Great information. Thank you also /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
I have just a evo3 nothing else and does creep to 25psi but holds it find so it doesnt bother me but if you want port that thing! I have a 3" exhaust, with JMF 02 housing also. I dont mind the 25psi im hoping to up it some more soon. also 750fic injectors 255walboro pump and keydiver chip.
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I agree with Jeff. Getting the port work done is a no-brainer. Also, I'd get the O2 housing ported, or buy a better O2 housing (preferably with external dump to scare the Honduh kids away /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ), to prevent creep, especially if you have a 3" exhaust and no cat. I can set the boost on my EVOIII 16G equipped GVR-4 as low as 13-14 psi with a 1psi or less spike and zero creep, with an off the shelf SBR manual boost controller.
Clipping, as Jeff stated, is really only necessary for the running the highest boost levels achievable by the turbo. Without clipping, the EVOIII 16G is certainly capable of maintaining 22-24 psi and producing 360-380whp. If you desire to make 400+ whp with an EVOIII 16G you'll need aggressive cams, serious tuning, and over 25psi of boost. It's been done, but it's probably easier and cheaper to buy a turbo better suited to meet those boost levels.
Clipping will definitely hurt low rpm spool. How much depends on the severity of the clip, 10-20 degrees of clip is the norm. There is simply less exhaust wheel to absorb energy from the exhaust gasses. The trade off, of course, is less rotational mass, and better high rpm performance. It just depends on your goals and particular setup.
Clipping, as Jeff stated, is really only necessary for the running the highest boost levels achievable by the turbo. Without clipping, the EVOIII 16G is certainly capable of maintaining 22-24 psi and producing 360-380whp. If you desire to make 400+ whp with an EVOIII 16G you'll need aggressive cams, serious tuning, and over 25psi of boost. It's been done, but it's probably easier and cheaper to buy a turbo better suited to meet those boost levels.
Clipping will definitely hurt low rpm spool. How much depends on the severity of the clip, 10-20 degrees of clip is the norm. There is simply less exhaust wheel to absorb energy from the exhaust gasses. The trade off, of course, is less rotational mass, and better high rpm performance. It just depends on your goals and particular setup.
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Well my order is in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Got the e316g from ForcedPerformance as well as porting for $614 shipped. I got about a week and a half to two weeks wait and then the fun begins. I suppose I could start tearing out the old now. What's involved? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif LOL Scary right?
Got the e316g from ForcedPerformance as well as porting for $614 shipped. I got about a week and a half to two weeks wait and then the fun begins. I suppose I could start tearing out the old now. What's involved? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif LOL Scary right?
I usually just dropped the downpipe, removed the oil drain tube (you need new gaskets for this), removed the oil and coolant lines from the turbo, and removed the whole exhaust manifold and turbo as an assembly. I custom bent a 12mm wrench to be able to get to a couple of the exhaust manifold nuts that are a pain. Don't be surprised if you break off a few of the studs, so get some spares. I bought a complete set of new studs and nuts to do the job right.
Should I drain engine oil first or will it not make a difference? When I pull oil lines off will the spill oil everywhere? I am assuming I have to pull at least the radiator fan off before the turbo and manifold will come out right? Where can I get replacement studs? I believe I am going to buy a gasket kit from FP as well. Do they have a studs kit? Thanks for tolerating my q's Jeff ^^
Thanks for tolerating my q's Jeff ^^NateCrisman
Well-known member
Do yourself a big big favor:
drain the oil
drain the coolant
remove the radiator with the fans and the main radiator hoses together.
If you haven't been doing turbo swaps on these cars before, you will be much much much better off with some additional room to work. Sometimes getting the turbo out is a pita and getting the water and oil line banjo bolts on the new turbo can be a hassle. Take 15 minutes to get the radiator out of the way, not to mention it will keep you from swinging a ratchet and poking a hole in the radiator too.
drain the oil
drain the coolant
remove the radiator with the fans and the main radiator hoses together.
If you haven't been doing turbo swaps on these cars before, you will be much much much better off with some additional room to work. Sometimes getting the turbo out is a pita and getting the water and oil line banjo bolts on the new turbo can be a hassle. Take 15 minutes to get the radiator out of the way, not to mention it will keep you from swinging a ratchet and poking a hole in the radiator too.
Nate's right. And it will still make a mess when you pull the lines off the turbo. Then again, I can't ever remember working on a DSM and coming home clean /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Also, inspect the drain tube for cracks in the flex section, as this is a common area for oil leaks, especially in high-mileage vehicles. If the budget permits, opt for a push-loc hose with -AN fittings, and you'll make life easier in the future as well.
Also, inspect the drain tube for cracks in the flex section, as this is a common area for oil leaks, especially in high-mileage vehicles. If the budget permits, opt for a push-loc hose with -AN fittings, and you'll make life easier in the future as well.
Good good. Figured this was the case but wanted to make sure. Think I may seek out one of them rubber beds to put the frontend in while I do this. Garage is messy enough after the powersteering work hehehe
CP
Well-known member
Drain the oil, why? I never drained any fluids during the 6 turbo swaps I did in 1788. I liked to pull the exhaust manifold by itself. That gives lots of room to disconnect oil and coolant lines from the turbo and pull it separately.
Not replacing the oil on a fresh turbo is a good way to kill it pretty quick.
1990ggsxnj
Well-known member
Plus if you're pulling all of that out anyways, why not just do an oil change. You have access to everything you need to do it. Plus with two weeks the thing could drain to get every little bit out as possible /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Don't forget to prime the new turbo with oil.
Don't forget to prime the new turbo with oil.
Alright the turbo came in last week and I am finally getting down to business...
I thank you all again for your continued help on this. I am learning so much!
I put the front end up on block and drained the coolant out of the radiator. Hmmm wonder where I should dispose of that? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I removed the upper hoses and then proceeded to shear off the two wire clamp holding the lower on which was rusted beyond recognition. I guess I should have known that there would be coolant in there but I stupidly pulled it off without anything below. What fun that was to cleanup! hehehe
Upon pulling the radiator straight up I discovered that I will be needing a new radiator...There is an extremely large number of fins missing all over the place on this thing and it appears they are just continuing to fall out at will. If someone can just stamp this as replace I will know for sure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
I got the upper heat shield off without too much problems and removed the oil dipstick. How in the world do I remove the tube? I couldn't find a bolt or anything holding it in place. Does it just pull out?
Thanks again guys! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
I thank you all again for your continued help on this. I am learning so much!
I put the front end up on block and drained the coolant out of the radiator. Hmmm wonder where I should dispose of that? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I removed the upper hoses and then proceeded to shear off the two wire clamp holding the lower on which was rusted beyond recognition. I guess I should have known that there would be coolant in there but I stupidly pulled it off without anything below. What fun that was to cleanup! hehehe
Upon pulling the radiator straight up I discovered that I will be needing a new radiator...There is an extremely large number of fins missing all over the place on this thing and it appears they are just continuing to fall out at will. If someone can just stamp this as replace I will know for sure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
I got the upper heat shield off without too much problems and removed the oil dipstick. How in the world do I remove the tube? I couldn't find a bolt or anything holding it in place. Does it just pull out?
Thanks again guys! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
RedTwo
Well-known member
Anti freeze is green - grass is green - no one will every know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif (until the grass turns brown...)
From memory the dipstick tube has two 10mm? bolts attached to the oil pan and one holding a bracket to the block?
You *can* take the turbo off without removing it - At least on a JDM. Last time I just removed the radiator (A/C is long gone, and probably a few other parts that you may still have) and shifted the power steering pump.
It's probably much better to follow the steps outline in the VFAQ article so you don't forget anything the first couple times.
From memory the dipstick tube has two 10mm? bolts attached to the oil pan and one holding a bracket to the block?
You *can* take the turbo off without removing it - At least on a JDM. Last time I just removed the radiator (A/C is long gone, and probably a few other parts that you may still have) and shifted the power steering pump.
It's probably much better to follow the steps outline in the VFAQ article so you don't forget anything the first couple times.
Yeah I have considered a couple of options with the AntiFreeze...pouring down drain, pouring over hill next to property...I would like to do it right, but can't seem to find proper disposal!
I am following the VFAQ for the turbo swap. Or trying to anyway. I will have to look closer for the dipstick tube bolts. Next is the lower heatshield which I can't even seem to see LOL
I am following the VFAQ for the turbo swap. Or trying to anyway. I will have to look closer for the dipstick tube bolts. Next is the lower heatshield which I can't even seem to see LOL
This might help a little. 995' getting some E316G love /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
