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which engine?

Ok, i have become a fan of the Mits Galant VR-4 of late. i plan to buy one in the near future, and i have a question that i can't seem to get answered. i am the kind of guy who likes to plan before hand, i want this baby to go fast, and i am pretty sure i have the money and time to make that happen /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif but what engine is the best? i have heard that a mid 90's eclipse engine is good, but whats the best for HP, and whats the best for torque (or both)?

aside from that i am pretty sure what to do... intake, exhaust, turbo, intercooler, etc...
 

Olson

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Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
1,237
Location
Moreno Valley CA
.....4g63 6bolt that comes in it??
 

Some fan you are... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Welcome to the board man. The 4g63 that comes in the VR4 has a lot of potential. There are plenty of turbo upgrade options out there with supporting mods for low-mid-high HP.

May I ask how you became a fan of these cars and what cars have you owned in the past?
 

Woosky117

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Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
192
Location
Lacombe, Alberta
yeah, the 4g63t power plant is like bullet proof.
if you consider that there are evos out there doing 1000hp +, you can realy see the potential of this engine. i think there are some guys on here that have 700hp-800hp on their vr4s.
look it up! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

The 4G63T in the GVR-4 is the identical motor to the one in the 1990-93 DSM's, so no motor transplant is necessary. It already has the best rods, cams, crank, etc.
 

ok, i have owned a POS 94 toyota pickup, and am currently driving a 99 civic. My brother owns a 93 3000GT VR-4 Twin turbo that i have worked on with him for at least a year now. it was actually my brother who introduced me to the galant. i live in colorado and the 4wd is pretty much the only option.

i understand that this engine is amazing (so i have heard :p) but what i would like to do, is unless the one in it is low miles (from what i have seen, that seems kinda rare), i would want a new one, cryofreeze the block, and build it up from scratch with the fancy gaskets, valves, etc... so would i want to find a fairly young Evo engine? or where would i go from there?
 

JSchleim18

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Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,801
Location
Long Island, NY
There are a few choices you have but I'd recommend anything in the early Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Galant VR-4, Galant GSR, Galant GSX, or Galant GS. You want to find a 6 bolt block. If you want more torque, you can find an early 4G64 or G4CS from a hyundai sonata. These are a 2.4L.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
I would search for an engine that had the block cast on june 7th 1991, had the block machined on June 11th, 1991, and was assembled on June 20th, 1991. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

All kidding aside, if you're going to machine and then build a killer motor, the condition of the core is more important than anything else.

A low mileage engine that spun a bearing or was severely overheated is much less desireable than an engine with 250,000 miles that just plumb got tired.

The 4g63t motors are tough little units, and many people have built double strong motors using them as a base to build on. With a little research, you can replicate what has already been done.

Going above and beyond that is best left to people with really deep pockets and an appetite for destruction.

The fastest car is the one not on jackstands. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Just as an FYI when you're selecting a motor for the car:

1990-1992.5 6-bolt 4G63t (stock GVR-4, early 1GDSM)
*Biggest factory rods, drops right in

1992.5-1994 7-bolt
*Block will work, but it has smaller factory rods

1995-1999 7-bolt
*This is a 2G motor, and will bolt in, so long as you like fabrication. We've done an EVOIII in a 1G, but it wasn't fun, and had some help with an already fabricated front motor mount from Rob McKellar of Extreme Motorsports. Stay away from a 2G 1995-1999 motor.

Furthermore, if you're building the motor, either of the top two should work ok, just select good parts and do what's tried and true. Btw, I don't know anyone that cryos the block. Stick with a good machinist that will magnaflux the block for flaws and you should be good. If you just want a good replacement motor, 6-bolt blocks are best. Guys easily have made 400-450whp on stock rods and pistons. This takes excellent tuning and a solid motor, however.
 
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Love the detail that you put in it. Explanation of all the engines and opinion on which is best. 6 BOLT ALL THE WAY IF YOU WANT TO BUILD.
 

gmp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
549
Location
Denver,co
Quoting JSchleim18:
There are a few choices you have but I'd recommend anything in the early Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Galant VR-4, Galant GSR, Galant GSX, or Galant GS. You want to find a 6 bolt block. If you want more torque, you can find an early 4G64 or G4CS from a hyundai sonata. These are a 2.4L.


anyone know the compression ratio of the 2.4l sonata engines i beleive it's 9:1? maybe?

i know the expo vans have 12:1 compression which is awesome thats like v-8 pistons in a 4 cyl ahahahah power pwa!
 

thanks, and its not about throwin money at a car to make it a nice car... otherwise I'd just invest in something new... i just want a nice car for a change... good handling, nice engine, somethin i can be proud of. so i might as well figure out what selection i got to chose from for engines. thanks for the help!
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
You don't need a built motor and fancy gaskets to make power. Stock engine cars with good compression handle enough power for 90% of the people out there.
 

boostedinaz

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
I agree with Wop. If you aren't going to make over 400 AWHP thne a built motor is overkill.

What I suggest is to become more familiar with the platform before you go spending the value of the car in a motor. Once that is done just enjoy modding it and making it faster.

Before you do anything make sure it is in good runnign condition, change all belts, hoses, vacuumlines and so on.
 

i highly recommend locating and replace all coolant hoses. i had three burst in a matter of 2 months. first was the wake up call, second was because i was being lazy, and third because i didnt know there was a hose there( tucked around oil filter housing).

not fun to stand by a steaming car, running to get water, and doing a makeshift repair to get to a auto store. (i RTV'ed a piece of rubber hose that i split and separated into sheets around the hole and let it set. emergency repair on the side of the road)
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
There are ten coolant hoses total. Two large ones for the radiator, two at the oil cooler, two for the throttle body, two for the heater core, and two for the turbo. I think it's under $70 for all of them through the dealer. Excellent investment.
 

The_Big_Weave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
390
Location
Rapid City, SD
Could just be different if you really looking for potential an slam a 2jz in that bad boy.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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