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upgrade fuel system?

so i have a question...

i just recently picked up a 91 gvr4. one of the current issues is a slight fuel leak where the fuel line connects to the bottom of the fuel filter in the engine bay. i've already tried retightening everything.

Option 1 (recommended by RRE)
pull the stock fuel line (fp to fuel filter) out and bring to a shop to have them make a new one. only thing im afraid of is bending or tweaking the line in the process of removing it and not being able to have an accurate line remade.

Option 2 click
go with the "steveTek highflow fuel system" i found this option to be more beneficial. i'll be able to take care of the leak as well as have a better flowing fuel system. the only trouble is i cant find a replacement high flow fuel filter and im not sure what to do about the machining part of the DIY in the link. some help with this would be appreciated. anyone out there do this before?

so what do you guys think? thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

How about you pull the fuel filter out and find out EXACTLY where the leak is coming from??? What if it has nothing to do with the line itself and it's just a faulty filter? It's pretty cheap to pull the filter and find out. If you ever have plans of running the car at a level where the stock fuel line isn't good enough then I'd suggest replacing the whole feed line and filter right now.
 

91GSR

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
728
Location
Newport News, VA
this is what i got
i had to replace the filter to rail line anyway so i went ahead and got the nice filter with it too. of course it was on sale when i bought it so i spent a few bux less than it sells for right now. like RM said...if you plan to run at high performance you might as well just replace everything now. no machining required for the fuel rail they sell adaptors that bolt on. if not that then just buy a new fuel rail too. its up to you.
 

this is the ultimate solution.

Parts needed-

1. 15 ft.+ stainless steel braided fuel line $50+
2. Fuel filter off a 95 porche(spelling?) 928 (well capable of over 600hp) $15
3. two pipe thread to -6an fittings $5
4. one 45 degree -6 russel or equivilant fuel litting $12
5. three strait -6 russel fuel fittings $18
6. one russel adapter that has a -6 flare on one side $5
7. the middle flared copper piece that is part of a steel line compression fitting $.20 (pm me if your confused about what that is)

Run the fuel line from the tank to wherever you think it would be easiest to place the fuel filter. I always go under the body on the inside of the frame. Its easy to chnge there. Cut the fuel line to length. On the tank side will be the 45 degree fitting. The other will be strait. Put the flared compression piece in the threaded side of the 45 degree fitting and, after the fuel line is attatched, screw it on to the fuel fump assembly. The compression piece, my genious invention, is to fix the problem of having two inverted flare parts up against each other. With your remaining fuel line measure the length needed from the filter location to the fuel rail, and cut it. On one end, put a strait fitting, and on the other put the same. The two pipe thread to -6an fittings are to adapt the fuel filter threads to the russel fittings. you should only be left with one piece now, and that is the -6 adapter. you cut it in half, and use the inverted -6 part. It will need to be welded onto the end of the fuel rail. (Or you can orded one adapter from the fuel rail to -6 fitting but thats $30 lol).

And walla!! Upgraded fuel lines! Looks great too
 

CarRacer

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Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
4,371
Location
Shakopee, MN
I just ran new line to fix the mickey mouse setup the PO had on my car.

I bought all of my stuff from Summit. I already had a line from the filter to the rail, but I'll include the needed parts and there's plenty of line.

I bought the longest section of -6 they sell, I think it was 25 feet and I had plenty left over.
I bought a -6 bulkhead fitting that replaces the hard line on the fuel pump assembly.
I bought 3 90* -6 fittings. One for the pump assembly, one for the tank side of the filter and one for the engine side of the filter.
Use a 45* -6 to attach the line to the rail. This may vary with your choice of IC piping routing.
I bought a push loc straight -6 fitting to connect the pump to the bulkhead fitting.
For a fuel filter I bought an Earls -6 reusable filter. No need to buy a new one, you just open it up and clean it out. Flows plenty too.
You'll also need a -6 fuel rail adapter. Extremepsi, MAP, AMS, etc all sell those.

That eliminates any adapters and reduces the number of connections that can leak. It also allows you to run the line away from the tranny. If it decides to spit it's guts out the bellhousing, it won't cut your fuel line with shrapnel.

Read up on the chisel method of making AN lines. It's the easiest way to do it and you won't stab yourself with the wire either. There's videos on YouTube. I think Earls produced them.
 
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WOW...

awesome guys. thanks for all the info!!! will be working on this when i get all the parts together.
 

fivestardsm

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Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
1,699
Location
Middle, Michigan
Quoting RvlutionMtrsport:
How about you pull the fuel filter out and find out EXACTLY where the leak is coming from??? What if it has nothing to do with the line itself and it's just a faulty filter? It's pretty cheap to pull the filter and find out. If you ever have plans of running the car at a level where the stock fuel line isn't good enough then I'd suggest replacing the whole feed line and filter right now.



+1^^

Just so you all know (if you don't) they have a tendency to crack around the line fitting on the filter it self.
 

1990ggsxnj

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
525
Location
Blackwood, NJ
How are you guys mounting the lines on the under body? I've seen zip ties but between debris and winters, I wouldn't use them.
 

Rausch

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Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
^ They make bolt in (screw in) Insulated clips. I forget the name. CR just picked some up, so maybe he can chime in...If he didn't break anything else already /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

CarRacer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
4,371
Location
Shakopee, MN
I used self tapping screws and "isolated clamps" from NAPA. They worked pretty well.


I did break something though. I must have stripped the adjuster bolt on the alternator and the water pump belt took a ride. I'm sitting on the side of the road waiting on a rescue. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
 

91GSR

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
728
Location
Newport News, VA
good ole cr up to his normal antics lol. sounds like you got yourself a polan, now just buy it and install it. someone mentioned that extremepsi has the fuel rail adaptor, its like 7 bucks. and they also sell the clamps to mount the fuel line on the underbody.
 

GVR4_1057

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
676
Location
Brucetown VA
I used insulated wire clamps like this. And bolted them to the factory AWS line clamp threaded holes.
 

OMG!!!!!!!!

getting that damn fuel filter off the steel line is HARD. still not off by the way. i tried spraying it with PB Blast and it is still not budging!!!
 

Are you using a wrench to hold the fuel filter and another one to turn the fuel line fitting? If not, you'll prolly never get it to budge.
 

^ yes sir i was...

anyway im done for the day. sprayed it again with the PB Blast and gonna let it sit over night and try again tmrw. gotta watch the Lakers throw game 5 so they can win game 6 at home... =)
 

^ Had a dream they win it tonight in Orlando /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Are you using a 14mm flare/line wrench on the fuel fitting or just a regular wrench?
 

^haha... i'll be happy if they win tonight but it would be 10x better to win it at home.

yup i was using a 14mm flare wrench. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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