My car still is sputtering bad (around 3-3500 rpm)!! I checked the TPS sensor with a volt meter and was consistant the whole way through then with the pedal like 3/4 to the whole way down the volts drop to where the volts are when the pedal isnt pressed at all!! Could that be my problem??
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toybreaker
iconoclast
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Why yes, yes it could. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Try unplugging it.
The ecu will notice it missing altogether, and then the car will then run on a predetermined tps value.
It should run well enough for you to determine if that's your problem.
Try unplugging it.
The ecu will notice it missing altogether, and then the car will then run on a predetermined tps value.
It should run well enough for you to determine if that's your problem.
on another note what is the voltage sposed to read on the logger for the tps?
bustedsm
Well-known member
At 0% throttle - .63v and at 100% throttle - 5.00v
toybreaker
iconoclast
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Different loggers read it differently. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I would say it *should* read around .5v closed throttle, and around 5v wide open. (with no drop out's or downspikes when you sweep the throttle slowly from fully closed to fully open.)
I would say it *should* read around .5v closed throttle, and around 5v wide open. (with no drop out's or downspikes when you sweep the throttle slowly from fully closed to fully open.)
awsome.. i have a brand new bored out TB from throttlebodies.com with alllll new sensors so i should be in the good.. just couldnt find out what i needed to set it to before i locked the tps into place. Thanks
edit: im using a palm m505 w/ mmcd.
edit: im using a palm m505 w/ mmcd.
Last edited by a moderator:
Terry Posten
Well-known member
What is the proper resistance of the TPS if one wants to adjust with just a ohm meter?
In my opinion that is the easiest way to do it. Unplug the harness and meter between pin #2 and #4. There is no pin in #3 spot.
I want to make sure mine is right also.
Thanks.
In my opinion that is the easiest way to do it. Unplug the harness and meter between pin #2 and #4. There is no pin in #3 spot.
I want to make sure mine is right also.
Thanks.
Guys i think that is my problem!! Should I try to adjust it or anything?!?! Or just buy a new one!! Anyone know anybody who is selling one??
toybreaker
iconoclast
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The tps is really easy to check with a logger, especially in the graphing mode.
When you are checking it with an ohmeter, it's unloaded, and may check just fine, especially with a digital meter, because the numbers hop around so much it's hard to see the trend. (An old school simpson analog meter works well, but they're just about as extinct as people who know how to use them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif)
Trust me, use a logger!!!
The key is to watch for drop outs.
The *actual* voltage it's reading isn't quite so critical, only that it is consistent, and increases linearly when you sweep the throttle. The range should be ~.5v closed to ~5v wide open (exact spec is .48v to .52v at idle, with the throttle closed)
I've seen them waaaay out of range, and the ecu will just compensate with the fuel trims, so don't freak if you're a little out of spec. (But you will know, and so will the the automotive gods, so it's best to get it spot on... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif)
*Usually* they fail where they operate the most, right around 1/16th to an 1/8th throttle, and they will drop off fairly consistently when they are warm. You can also gently tap the tps housing and watch for spikes/drop outs to simulate vibration, but it's generally not necessary.
Give the harness a bit of a wiggle where it plugs in as well, as corrosion on the pins of the connector will give the same symptoms as a bad tps. A simple cleaning of the male pins with some rubbing alcohol on a q-tip, and then plugging/unplugging things a few times will go along way towards eliminating that possibility.
On a freshly rebuilt t-body, set the tps in the center of it's range of adjustment. Just eyeball the gaps on both sides of the mounting screws.
Make sure the closed idle switch is adjusted correctly (somebody got the vfaq link? my computer is acting up today... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Set the base idle correctly, (to insure the closed idleswitch and t-cable are correctly adjusted) then reset the tps to read .5v, and you're done!
I have a known good loaner tps if you need one.
When you are checking it with an ohmeter, it's unloaded, and may check just fine, especially with a digital meter, because the numbers hop around so much it's hard to see the trend. (An old school simpson analog meter works well, but they're just about as extinct as people who know how to use them. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif)
Trust me, use a logger!!!
The key is to watch for drop outs.
The *actual* voltage it's reading isn't quite so critical, only that it is consistent, and increases linearly when you sweep the throttle. The range should be ~.5v closed to ~5v wide open (exact spec is .48v to .52v at idle, with the throttle closed)
I've seen them waaaay out of range, and the ecu will just compensate with the fuel trims, so don't freak if you're a little out of spec. (But you will know, and so will the the automotive gods, so it's best to get it spot on... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif)
*Usually* they fail where they operate the most, right around 1/16th to an 1/8th throttle, and they will drop off fairly consistently when they are warm. You can also gently tap the tps housing and watch for spikes/drop outs to simulate vibration, but it's generally not necessary.
Give the harness a bit of a wiggle where it plugs in as well, as corrosion on the pins of the connector will give the same symptoms as a bad tps. A simple cleaning of the male pins with some rubbing alcohol on a q-tip, and then plugging/unplugging things a few times will go along way towards eliminating that possibility.
On a freshly rebuilt t-body, set the tps in the center of it's range of adjustment. Just eyeball the gaps on both sides of the mounting screws.
Make sure the closed idle switch is adjusted correctly (somebody got the vfaq link? my computer is acting up today... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Set the base idle correctly, (to insure the closed idleswitch and t-cable are correctly adjusted) then reset the tps to read .5v, and you're done!
I have a known good loaner tps if you need one.
Quoting bustedsm:
At 0% throttle - .63v and at 100% throttle - 5.00v
If you are using the logger in "%" mode it should be between 10-13%. Mine is at 12% when the throttle is closed and was within the 0.48-0.52v range with a DVM.
Like mentioned you really can't check a TPS using the meter, a small glitch will be extremely hard to see/display. Use a o-scope or logger in graph mode and look for non-linear dips.
At 0% throttle - .63v and at 100% throttle - 5.00v
If you are using the logger in "%" mode it should be between 10-13%. Mine is at 12% when the throttle is closed and was within the 0.48-0.52v range with a DVM.
Like mentioned you really can't check a TPS using the meter, a small glitch will be extremely hard to see/display. Use a o-scope or logger in graph mode and look for non-linear dips.
No, it should be 9-11%. The manual specs .45-.55 volts, which is 9 to 11% of 5 volts.
Ok guys thats my problem.. I tapped it with a hammer cause there was no corrison or loose... I ordered one from an autoparts store and its $61.23 with tax and a 1 year warranty!! Thanks for all the help
definitely your problem. fixed my issues. i replaced mine with a non turbo tps and it works fine.
