I noticed people cap the vacuum lines on there throttle body.. Are there advantages to this?
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It's done when removing emissions equipment and other underhood clutter; it's basically to simplify things and tidy the engine bay up.
Well my engine is entirely stock modification wise.. I live in MN so we don't have any emmisions requirements.. What kind of items do you remove? Does it increase performance at all? I would like to remove some of this clutter you speak of if i do not need it..
Flip4G63
Well-known member
go threw the how to section.
there is a vacume line diagram there it will show you what you need to keep.
there is a vacume line diagram there it will show you what you need to keep.
Flip4G63
Well-known member
Thank You /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I'm still a little confused.. I'm sorry. I can read the diagrams but what can and can't be removed? And which diagram should i use? The first one is stock? Help please? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
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Flip4G63
Well-known member
alright.
this is how i got mine set up..
meaning all you need is what is there.
all other can be removed!
NOTE: make sure all fittings and hoses DO NOT LEAK!!!!!!!!!!!! read that again!
after you are done do a boost leak test.. zip tie all the lines where they connect to be safe.
make or buy a MBC so you can remove the stock BCS
this is how i got mine set up..
meaning all you need is what is there.
all other can be removed!
NOTE: make sure all fittings and hoses DO NOT LEAK!!!!!!!!!!!! read that again!
after you are done do a boost leak test.. zip tie all the lines where they connect to be safe.
make or buy a MBC so you can remove the stock BCS
I would amend that diagram by suggesting that you not tee the WG vac. line into the BOV vac. line as it may cause BOV surging. Not all people/cars have this issue, but I did, and after giving each their own dedicated vacuum line it went away.
Flip4G63
Well-known member
agree.. i ran a line from the WG to a line on my IC pipe.. and had a strait line on the BOV
belize1334
Well-known member
I run the fuel pressure reglulator off of the closest fitting on the manifold. I run the BOV off of the normal (big) fitting. My boost gauge comes off of the P-port and my MBC/wg run off of the turbo outlet pipe port. CCV and PCV are in their stock configuration for me.
Just to list the items that can be eliminated. My EGR is gone as I have a JDM Cyclone manifold but I believe you can just unplug it on the USDM and it'll stay closed. Charcoal cannister is gone. Fuel pressure solenoid is bypassed.
Just to list the items that can be eliminated. My EGR is gone as I have a JDM Cyclone manifold but I believe you can just unplug it on the USDM and it'll stay closed. Charcoal cannister is gone. Fuel pressure solenoid is bypassed.
Are there any downsides to doing this? I have heard fuel consumption may increase, is this true?
Flip4G63
Well-known member
if so its not enough to notice
If you mess up the vacuuming in the car it will run horribly right? I'm still a little confused, and I really don't want to mess my car up.. Does anyone possibly have a step-by-step procedure or anything?
Let me get this strait.. I need a Manual Boost Controller, An EGR Block Off Plate, and a Boost Gauge to remove all of those ugly vacuum lines? click
I have a boost gauge and a MBC.. Now I need a EGR Block Off Plate? The little can type deal on the air filter housing is the fuel pressure solenoid, or the turbo charger waste gate solenoid? There's an electrical connection on it, it's safe to leave it unplugged? I'm so confused /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Could someone please share pictures of what parts are what? I would really like to install these parts and remove the ones I don't need but I don't want to wreck my baby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Is the EGR block off plate the plate that goes under the Throttle Body?
I have a boost gauge and a MBC.. Now I need a EGR Block Off Plate? The little can type deal on the air filter housing is the fuel pressure solenoid, or the turbo charger waste gate solenoid? There's an electrical connection on it, it's safe to leave it unplugged? I'm so confused /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Could someone please share pictures of what parts are what? I would really like to install these parts and remove the ones I don't need but I don't want to wreck my baby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Is the EGR block off plate the plate that goes under the Throttle Body?
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strokin4dr
Well-known member
Just follow the vaccum lines to determine which solenoid goes the what. And no, the egr block off plate is not the one that goes under the throttle body. The egr is located on the intake manifold near the #4 runner; it has vaccum lines running to it and is held in place by two 12mm bolts.
Check this link click for the "visual" tour with good pics of most parts.
The solenoid on the air filter can is the ECU wastegate/boost controller. It basically blocks the signal to the WG until a pre-determined boost level. Can cause boost spikes but also keep the WG closed longer. It also prevents you from running more boost than MMC designed. Keep it if you don't want to run more than 11-12psi.
Lots and lots of opinions on removing the EGR. My 0.02 is unless you hate the rats nest of vacuum lines leave it alone.
The diagrams in your link and this thread are sufficient to remove everything properly. The link above is one I have bookmarked and referred to numerous times until I was familiar with the engine bay.
The solenoid on the air filter can is the ECU wastegate/boost controller. It basically blocks the signal to the WG until a pre-determined boost level. Can cause boost spikes but also keep the WG closed longer. It also prevents you from running more boost than MMC designed. Keep it if you don't want to run more than 11-12psi.
Lots and lots of opinions on removing the EGR. My 0.02 is unless you hate the rats nest of vacuum lines leave it alone.
The diagrams in your link and this thread are sufficient to remove everything properly. The link above is one I have bookmarked and referred to numerous times until I was familiar with the engine bay.
If you have a stock fuel pressure regulator, I wouldn't run the boost gauge off the FPR line. My OEM FPR failed and I found out when my boost gauge started filling with fuel.....NOT GOOD. After you remove the emissions stuff, use the P port for a boost reference.
-Josh
-Josh
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
FPR should always be alone, less to leak on the line and cause bad things to happen.
Personally i like to separate it all out, and it seems to work quite well.
Personally i like to separate it all out, and it seems to work quite well.
mean_green
Well-known member
I reaize no ones posted on this thread for awhile but could someone let me in on the secret they used as the red square "plug"? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Im really wanting to tidy everything up a bit and might as well do this at the same time as the non cruise cable and non abs proportioning vavle/hard lines. Thanks..
-Alan
-Alan
