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just got this 1991 vr4 HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

928VR4JOE

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
9
Location
CALIFORNIA
hello new here i just got this vr4 928/2000 but it feels so laggy the guy i got it from said he deleted the egr. it's still there but he just bypassed it.
here is what its doing when is cold it drives good but when its at driving temp its starts to lag i press the gas pedal and it wont go.
the guy told me and sent me proof of the engine being rebuilt but he wasn't so sure about how the vacuum lines go i see he added alot of t's can anybody send me some pic of how the line actually go please.
help me out please. the only thing that is after market is the bov. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

mk2davis

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Joined
Mar 1, 2015
Messages
191
Location
Ventura, CA
There are a fair amount of diagrams out there. Start with this click

If I were you, if plan on doing a boost leak test too. Mine ran like dog poo under any boost due to leaky throttle shaft seals. It was an easy fix.
 

928VR4JOE

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
9
Location
CALIFORNIA
are you able to post a actual picture of how its supposed to go i suck at following diagrams lol.i can try but dont wanna mess anything up
 

mk2davis

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Joined
Mar 1, 2015
Messages
191
Location
Ventura, CA
I'm in CA, so my requirements are likely different than yours. The diagrams are pretty straight forward. Have you tried searching for diagrams or pics? There are a lot of threads dealing with vacuum lines.
 

Eztoril

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Irvine CA
Look for the diagram sticker on your hood, if it's still there. Best place to start. If it doesnt exist or is faded, use the link to the diagram that mk2davis posted. I used that diagram myself until I got rid of all that crap.


+1 on the BLT
 
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928VR4JOE

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
9
Location
CALIFORNIA
IM IN CALI TOO.SO I KINDA REROUTED SOME LINES KINDA WORKS A LITTLE BETTER BUT WHAT IT DOES IS WHEN ITS COLD IT RUNS GREAT FEEL THE TURBO AND EVERYTHING, ITS WHEN IT WARMS UP WHEN IT STARTS TO LAG ANY IDEAS. I ATTACHED SOME OLD PICS OF WHAT IT USE TO LOOK LIKE LET ME KNOW IF THIS WAS RIGHT I SEE TWO SENSOR THAT DONT HAVE ANYTHING ATTACHED.




/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

Eztoril

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Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Irvine CA
Start by printing out that diagram and open your hood. Identify something from that diagram under your hood and start from there. Looks like spaghetti but once you start following the hoses and make sure they are plugged into the correct ports things will get easier. That is how I got mine sorted out. It's just matching things from the diagram to the real things under the hood.

Btw - is that throttle body a non turbo one? My car has the elbow attaching directly to the throttle body itself without the coupler. It also looks like you are missing one vacuum hose from the top of the throttle body. Ground strap that throttle body uses as a ground looks like it's missing also. The idle stop switch uses that as a ground.
 
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transparentdsm

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Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
You probably have a really bad boost leak. Make yourself a home depot boost leak tester and put about 15psi in the system. Look up how to build and use it on YouTube. I'm sure you have a few leaks in the system.

I don't see a charcoal canister in there either. Your gonna have a lot of work ahead of you to be able to pass smog.

If passing smog however isn't an issue for you then I would go with the vacuum delete and get things set up properly.


I see a port by the BOV that is supposed to be part of the boost control system and it's just plugged with a screw that I'm sure is just leaking.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Find a local DSM group and get with somebody that knows what the f*** they're doing. That car looks like a hack decided to tinker with everything and got it all bungled up. There are probably so many issues with regard to vacuum lines and boost leaks that it'd be quicker to just find somebody that can see it in person and route everything properly than try to have us diagnose it over the internet. You need somebody that is familiar with the vacuum line routing, boost leak testing, and resetting the BISS and idle. I'd be willing to do so it if I were closer but alas, I'm not.
 

transparentdsm

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Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
All true. Where in California are you? Maybe we can figure out someone close to ya and be able to help you out. If your north of Redding I'd possibly be willing to make the trip.
 

928VR4JOE

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
9
Location
CALIFORNIA
I'm in montclair california San Bernardino County.
Are able to tell me with one of solenoids is the fuel pressure solenoid.
 

mk2davis

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2015
Messages
191
Location
Ventura, CA
Search is your friend...https://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB3&Number=716165&page=1&fpart=1
 

gvr4ever

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,190
Location
central Indiana
Do you know any history on the car? It looks like a hot mess. It looks like the fuel filter is missing, as already mentioned, the intake elbow is wrong. It's suppose to bolt up to the throttle body. Kinda makes me wonder if the throttle body is correct. The valve cover is from a DSM. So, technically, the whole engine could have been swapped.

Before you go into repair mode, I'd personally want to know the history of the timing belt and water pump. I'd also do a compression test on the engine to make sure you have a strong engine before attacking the rest of the issues.

Just my .02. If it were me, I'd make sure the engine is healthy and the timing can stay in time. After that, I'd attack the missing/wrong parts and vacuum lines.

I'm a little concerned someone swapped in a non-turbo engine.
 
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928VR4JOE

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2020
Messages
9
Location
CALIFORNIA
i got it from a friend he went rebuilt the engine put pistons and rods the throttle body is off a non turbo but i got the turbo one already i also just bought the elbow just waiting for it to come in the mail.
 

Eztoril

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Irvine CA
The non turbo throttle body isn't a big big deal, they can be made to work. After looking at your pics a bit longer, it seems your friend swapped in a 7bolt engine into the car. I have heard of people going from 7bolt to 6bolt but not the other way around. I was only able to notice by looking at the CAS and it looks like a 7bolt one. We need to gather as much info about your setup as possible to help you out. If I come out that way anytime soon towards SB I can swing by and help you get started on sorting this out.

I got a bunch of parts too so if you need anything right away PM me and I may have whatever you might need and can help you out.
 
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Eztoril

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Aug 31, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Irvine CA
Looks like you are only 25 mins or so from me. Can you post better pics of the engine bay so we can see what else is going on in there? Any relevant information that was given to you by previous owner will help us to better understand what is going on as well.


If by any chance you want to take it to a shop, then I suggest Chai at C&A auto in Van Nuys. You will see lots of 3000GTs and DSMs there. He was a Mitsubishi master tech back in the day. He does really good work and doesn't charge an arm and leg.
 
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thomcasey

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Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
The CAS does not dermine (in theis case) 6 or 7 bolt. I have run the 7-bolt/black-top CAS on my DSM and VR4 for years.
 

Eztoril

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Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Messages
80
Location
Irvine CA
Gotcha. I never knew you could run the 7bolt CAS on a 6bolt. Learn something new everyday.
Thanks.
 

gvr4ever

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Joined
Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,190
Location
central Indiana
With mixed parts and the unknown, the oil pan should tell if it's a 6 bolt or 7 bolt.

click
 

thomcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Quoting Eztoril:
Gotcha. I never knew you could run the 7bolt CAS on a 6bolt. Learn something new everyday.
Thanks.



7-bolt CAS is actually a better unit. More accurate for engine RPM and it looks better too.
 
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