GalantVR4.org The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » Newbies » Best practices/tips for removing knock sensor?
Previous thread Next thread

Best practices/tips for removing knock sensor?


mk2davis
Junior Member
398/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1245245 posted 01/31/19 05:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The car has been showing odd hesitation and slow acceleration under boost. I sent my ECU to ECMTuning to rule out an ECU error, and they report that the ECU is in good shape, although they did replace problematic caps and are socketing the EPROM. They suggested that my symptoms are consistent with a bad knock sensor.

As you well know, the knock sensor is a pain to get to. I can barely reach it from the driver's side. I do still have AC. It does feel like the goo (technical term) hasn't run out of my existing sensor, but I'm replacing it anyways. Ohm reading on the 2 pin is 560,000 ohm, and I've read its supposed to be around 2.

Can someone verify that it is 24mm?

Can it be reached from underneath? I've read a stubby 24mm is the best way to do it, but I'm open to new ideas.

How tight do I screw the new one in? I've read (on a DSM forum) that slightly more than finger tight. I'd like a more specific instruction if it exists. I'm thinking that I may have overtightened it when I screwed it in while the motor was out.

Any and all guidance is appreciated. New sensor comes in tomorrow, the ECU likely on Saturday.

Thanks all.

Posts: 78 | From: Ventura, CA | Member Since: 03/01/15 | IP: (47.148.36.232) | Report this post to a Moderator

gvr4ever
Forever Member
347/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1245246 posted 01/31/19 05:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Search is still busted.

I had to manually find this.

click


Edited by gvr4ever (01/31/19 05:54 PM)

Posts: 5826 | From: central Indiana | Member Since: 08/06/02 | IP: (199.66.65.41) | Report this post to a Moderator

mk2davis
Junior Member
398/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1245249 posted 01/31/19 07:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was hoping not to remove the intake manifold, and it doesn't say how much to tighten it. Hopefully with my small hands, I'll figure something out.

Posts: 78 | From: Ventura, CA | Member Since: 03/01/15 | IP: (47.148.36.232) | Report this post to a Moderator

mk2davis
Junior Member
398/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1245262 posted 02/01/19 08:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Mission accomplished. At least I hope. I was able to get to it by removing the cruise control bracket, then reaching very deep from the passenger side. I used a credent wrench and after feeling around for a few minutes, got on the head. Feet didn't necessarily stay on the ground.

Before I installed it I compared the two with multimeter, and the results weren't too different. Pin 2 to the body of the sensor we both 570000 ohmish, although when I'd shake them the old one seemed to go to open circuit easier? Not the most scientific method, but time will tell when I get the ECU back.

If symptoms continue, I'll get some 100 octane gas and see if there's a difference.

Posts: 78 | From: Ventura, CA | Member Since: 03/01/15 | IP: (47.148.36.232) | Report this post to a Moderator

FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1245269 posted 02/03/19 12:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not that it is super accessible but torquing the sensor to exact spec is pretty crucial to getting a reliable reading from it.

See what you can do to get it torqued with an inch lb torque wrench combination.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

Posts: 1605 | From: THE Ottawa | Member Since: 03/05/05 | IP: (68.171.77.46) | Report this post to a Moderator

mk2davis
Junior Member
398/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1245285 posted 02/05/19 07:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Finally got the car started, and it idles as it should. Haven't been able to drive it yet, as it is currently blocked in. It actually seemed to start more readily, but that could just be wishful thinking.

If it doesn't drive as it should, I'll put some 100 octane in it.

Posts: 78 | From: Ventura, CA | Member Since: 03/01/15 | IP: (47.148.36.232) | Report this post to a Moderator

mk2davis
Junior Member
398/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1245296 posted 02/06/19 06:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
This doesn't feel like the same car to me. Hesitations and loss of power are GONE. Still won't pass smog, but that's another thread.

Posts: 78 | From: Ventura, CA | Member Since: 03/01/15 | IP: (47.148.36.232) | Report this post to a Moderator


Pages: 1
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 14 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant VR4.org Moderator:  Hertz, curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Thread views: 394

Rate this thread


News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.033 seconds in which 0.011 seconds were spent on a total of 13 queries. Turbo powered.


Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page