TURBO questions

[clevr4]

okay so right now I'm running a to4e ebay turbo? 50 trim. I have no idea about turbos honestly. I just know id like something that spools up quicker and is pretty much bolt on. my turbo is hurting and is smoking all my oil. doest anyone have a 50 trim to4e and know what my options are? I'm willing to pay quite a bit of money for quality because it seems this one didn't hold up too well.. I think about 23k miles. it still pulls hard but I'm not a big fan. especially with out a proper tune I don't like pushing my car to the limit just to feel the power I know it makes. any help would be appreciate it. I no longer have a smart phone so I will be checking this occasionally. thanks

 

[GSTwithPSI]

What are you power goals for the car, and how do you want it to make that power? That's the most important question your should ask yourself when selecting a turbo.

Most turbos T3 flanged are larger slow spooling turbos. You'll need to do extra work via tuning, or set up your car correctly to get these larger turbos to spool quickly. Typically, the DSM flanged turbos are what people use for quick spooling street turbos. In the grand scheme, the 50 trim is probably one of the quicker spooling T3 turbos out there.

If money is no object, a ball bering turbo is what you want. The FP HTA GT3076R is a sweet T3 flanged turbo, and could be made to spool quickly. Or, you could also just replace your junk Ebay turbo with a better quality 50 trim (Garrett, Turbonetics, whatever), and see better spool. On the journal bearing side of the house, you could go with an HX35, a Borg S366, or maybe even a T3 flanged 20G if you can find one.

If I were you, I swap back to a DSM flanged manifold, which gives you a wider range of quick spooling turbos that you'll actually be able to find new and used. You'll have the E316G, 20G, FP Green & Red, FP3052...The list goes on.

 

[clevr4]

Yeah I just got that I have a t3 manifold. I wouldn't be opposed to getting a dsm flanged header. I'm just worried about the exhaust, I don't believe my header is necessarily of good quality anyways. power goals, I'm looking for a turbo that could compare with a stock wrx, id like to be able to push the turbo a little bit, aka turn it up.

 

[clevr4]

okay ive done a little more research. I like the idea of a t3 flanged 20g. that's in my price range and seems to be the best power range I'm looking for. the ones I see are internally gated? I have an external on my setup now. not sure how I would go about to keeping my external and just deleting or stopping the internal?

 

[clevr4]

okay never mind. there is so much information on there and so many opinions on turbos and what is best. I don't know which way I should go. I'm looking to have a budget within 700.00 just tell me what to buy haha

 

[GSTwithPSI]

You can go either way with the wastegate:

You could use the internal gate, you'd just need the corresponding 20G O2 housing.

With the external gate, it depends how your current gate is set up. If your current turbo is gated off the manifold, you can simply weld the flapper shut. If your current setup is gated post turbine housing via some watstegate port in the housing itself, you'd need to remove the flapper and modify the 20G O2 housing to fit your gate.

Either way would work, but depending on how much boost you plan to run the external gate may be the better option. You'll probably need to reconfigure your downpipe with any turbo other than what you currently have. You're pretty much screwed there.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting clevr4:
okay never mind. there is so much information on there and so many opinions on turbos and what is best. I don't know which way I should go. I'm looking to have a budget within 700.00 just tell me what to buy haha



@ $700, you're looking at a 20G or smaller. By the time you buy all the parts to reconfigure your setup, You'll probably be over budget.

If I were you, I'd remove everything; starting with your header and ending with the downpipe. I'd pick up a used E316G, 20G, or maybe even a FP Green, and go back to a DSM flanged setup. Here's why:

- When one turbo blows up, there's a good supply of low cost replacements and/or rebuild services available.
- You'll be able to swap between everything from a 14b to a FP3065. That basically covers anywhere from 300 to ~500 hp.
- For the most part, these turbos use stock manifolds, O2 housings, and downpipes. That means little to no custom work every time you want to swap to another setup.

If you're less experienced, the plug and play MHI turbos are a good way to start learning, IMO.

 

[89Patches]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
@ $700, you're looking at a 20G or smaller. By the time you buy all the parts to reconfigure your setup, You'll probably be over budget.



This^^

 

[FlyingEagle]

Are built motor setups with 20G power in the "instant torque" category of turbos that are known to help contribute to 3rd-4th gear destruction?

 

[prove_it]

I blew mine up with a S16G at 26psi, trans exploded when the boost hit at the same time as the cyclone opened, and I was even driving 40mph. This was with an unknown geared trans. (year wise).

Any Td05h based turbo will be capable of the "instant torque" that you describe.

That was with 8.5:1 compression engine on E85.

 

[clevr4]

holy balls!^^^^^ that sounds like overall hell of an experience..... I'm tempted to try this....


click


I know its probably a cheap one. but it might hold me over till I can get a proper prices setup. any thoughts? I haven't heard of this company. but atleast it doesn't sound Chinese.... haha. I promise I wont bring the car to redline... intentionally. I just want a daily driver that I don't have to feed oil once a week

 

[thomcasey]

Godspeed are Chinese also. One of my son's had their 16g. It lasted 6 months, grenaded and took the motor out with all the little chunks of bearing and such. Sometimes they last, sometimes they don't, it is a roll of the dice.

 

[prove_it]

Do not buy a turbo off ebay like that. Seriously. You really think that a turbo (which requires precision balancing and machining) can cost under 300 bucks new?

No sir. Its crap, crap crap crap. You mentioned that your current turbo is ebay sourced, and look what it's doing.

Your going to have to spend some money. Do it right and get a well built turbo. You'll spend less in the long run.

 

[clevr4]

let me try this again. I was looking through the parts for sale. this guy has two t3 flanged turbo. Id be willing to spend this kind of money if it they will meet my needs. any thoughts on the garret or the borg? I'm assuming they will just bolt up. I figure if I go to a mhi set up it will cost more than 750-950 dollars? trying to get my hands on one in the next week or two

click

 

[clevr4]

id be happy with no turbo lol. I just want to drive the car. ill be selling my ar15 soon so ill have plenty of fund for a turbo fund

 

[prove_it]

GT3582 is a steller turbo. Lots of room for power.

 

[clevr4]

yeah, is it as quick spooling as the borg? I was just reading a thread on evonet and this guy got some pretty good power and response from the s259. full boost by 4200 rpm

I have to check mysetup too. I see theres a lot of different exhaust options and bolts patterns for the turbos. I have plenty of research and figuring to do

click

 

[strokin4dr]

The Borg does spool a bit faster than the 35R. Both are fun turbos though. I prefer the 35R on a stroker though.

 

[diambo4life]

Umm....no. Just get the stock manifold back on there and slap a 16G (big or EVO3) in it. Done.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

^ This.

Dude, the best thing you could ever do is pick up a used 16G, a stock 2G manifold and a down pipe. Nobody I know puts a Borg S259 or a GT3582 on a daily driver and expects it to spool quickly and be a reliable DD.

You want to drive the car, then you should go back to a simple and reliable MHI setup, IMO. It would be well within your budget, and you'll have plenty of room to upgrade in the future if the 16G isn't making the power you want.