3000gt 11/16" slave cylinder

[tektic]

Has anyone used this part? I was unable to find a slave for a DSM trans that had anything but 13/16" or 3/4". I saw posts that mentined using it on other forms but that was about it. My pedal disingauges at the floor if at all. I was Hopping for more throw from a new slave.

 

[prove_it]

How is your master? Have you adjusted your pedal as per Jacks transmissions recommendations?

 

[manikbastrd]

Haven't tried it, but having done all of the correct steps as well, I am curious if this would work out well or not. Even with the correct 3/4" slave, new master, stainless line and new master I still have to adjust my rod all the way out to be in a normal range. Check out your clutch fork. It may need to be shimmed to work better. Watch out for the slave rod if you do try this, it may need to be swapped from the GVR4 to the new one. Please keep me updated on how this goes! GL!

 

[prove_it]

Mine is that way too. It's adjusted pretty much to the max. New OE master, new clutch fork, pivot, oe release bearing. Aftermarket slave though. But it feels good. I'll be shimming it once I do a new clutch.

 

[Spyke169]

If you are running out of adjustment and need to get that little bit more out of it you could use a 2G DSM master rod, it is just that little bit longer.

 

[Spyke169]

 

[Wookalar]

Quoting prove_it:
.... I'll be shimming it once I do a new clutch.



Ahhhh, the dsmer mentality bandaid fix! Kill it with fire!

 

[prove_it]

How is resorting to shimming the pivot a band-aid fix after I've replaced all components?

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Your not supposed to shim the pivot ball if its new.

 

[manikbastrd]

Quoting Wookalar:
Quoting prove_it:
.... I'll be shimming it once I do a new clutch.



Ahhhh, the dsmer mentality bandaid fix! Kill it with fire!



Jack's actually recommends shimming if needed, even if it is new. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[prove_it]

Do to various dimensions due to aftermarket flywheels and clutches. Also the factory design is limited.

 

[LIV4PSI]

RRE says to never shim a new one, both very reputable shops.

 

[manikbastrd]

well, without shimming, on my brand new clutch with OEM mitsu components and a properly stepped flywheel, I was not getting full disengagement. So, perhaps on a brand new stock flywheel with a brand new stock clutch it is not necessary.

Unfortunately, I have tried every trick in the book to get it to feel better, and even with some shimming I still had to adjust out to the end of the clutch master rod. IDK what else there is to do besides shim the shift fork. If anyone has any other information I am more than willing to buy the parts and try it out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

Hence why I was interested to see how this 3S slave cylinder worked out hehehe.

 

[G]

click

 

[tektic]

My whole setup is new, ball is shimmed... I don't have enough motion with a 3/4" slave... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif I'm sick of engagement issues!

I ordered the 3kgt piece will report back should when it gets here with pics

 

[Wookalar]

Quoting manikbastrd:
Quoting Wookalar:
Quoting prove_it:
.... I'll be shimming it once I do a new clutch.



Ahhhh, the dsmer mentality bandaid fix! Kill it with fire!



Jack's actually recommends shimming if needed, even if it is new. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


Jacks would know better than me seeing as how they build transmissions every day but I would suggest asking them about the pedalbox. People have found that slack in the clutch pedal is attributed to a worn bushing in the pedal assemble. Thus the slack in the system prohibits the rod from traveling far enough when the pedal is pressed. Hence the extended rod band aid fix to extend the travel.

Jnz performs the pedalbox repair. Bad news is that removing the pedalbox is a major pain in the balls.

click

 

[prove_it]

Yep, rebuilt mine, still need to shim. Sometimes you gotta do it. I even had a TL with clutch issues and I ended up shimming that pivot too. It works. It's not a bandaid, extended slave rods are a band-aid.

Wooklar: You keep arguing that I'm wrong, so out of curiosity if you replaced the pedal bushings, slave, master cylinder, lines, release bearing, 2g clutch fork, pivot, and even the pedal pad using all OEM parts from the dealer and still had issues, then what would you do?

 

[strokin4dr]

I don't care what anyone says. Even with all new parts and a rebuilt pedal assembly, sometimes they still have to be shimmed.
Especially if the flywheel has ever been resurfaced and the step set!!

 

[Wookalar]

Quoting prove_it:
Yep, rebuilt mine, still need to shim. Sometimes you gotta do it. I even had a TL with clutch issues and I ended up shimming that pivot too. It works. It's not a bandaid, extended slave rods are a band-aid.

Wooklar: You keep arguing that I'm wrong, so out of curiosity if you replaced the pedal bushings, slave, master cylinder, lines, release bearing, 2g clutch fork, pivot, and even the pedal pad using all OEM parts from the dealer and still had issues, then what would you do?


Sir, not once in my last post did I accuse you of being wrong, I did however suggest that he consider his pedalbox as a possible issue. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

If the shimming works for you so be it, there is still an underlying issue there that caused one to need to shim in the first place. Do our trans come shimmed from the factory?

 

[strokin4dr]

Use a NEW oem flywheel and I bet no shimming would be needed.
Shimming isn't a bandaid. It's getting things back in spec after inserting not "factory spec" parts.