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Removing water pump

coyotes

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Nov 15, 2013
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So I've got everything undone, the water pump is off, but I can't get it out between the body and the engine. I've tried everything, raising the engine, lowering the engine.. what's the trick? I feel like an idiot for asking but I seriously can't get it out at all.
 

gvr4ever

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Aug 6, 2002
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central Indiana
You thought getting it out was tricky. Now get it back in without moving the gasket out of place.... Muhahaha.
 

G

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Feb 24, 2004
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zompton
High tack is a tip^^. Coyote, you're doing your own wp job?
 

coyotes

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Nov 15, 2013
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Seattle, WA
alright so while I'm asking stupid questions, here is another. I am putting everything back and getting timing set, but for some reason my tensioner pulley is rubbing on the water pump. Is there supposed to be a washer behind it? I am not missing any hardware to my knowledge... but I cannot figure out why it is rubbing.
 

coyotes

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I got it figured out, once you put tension on the belt it doesn't rub on anything. I'm just waiting for it to settle now, turned it 6 times and everything lines up. doing the grenade pin shortcut to make sure it's tensioned right.
 

coyotes

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it's all done. just been wasting the last hour trying to get the tension right. turn turn turn, wait 15 minutes. zzzz. at least I have learned a lot doing this, it's not so bad.
 

coyotes

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Ah well, can't finish it tonight. having a hard time getting the tension just right. Will have to save it for another day.
 

coyotes

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it was leaving little puddles of coolant everywhere I parked. I would hear some sorta noise too but that turned out to be the harmonic balancer going bad.

I just did the whole cooling system, new hoses, thermostat, CTS, radiator. Timing belt was done in december but I didn't do the water pump. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif flame away
 

gvr4ever

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central Indiana
Quoting coyotes:
it was leaving little puddles of coolant everywhere I parked. I would hear some sorta noise too but that turned out to be the harmonic balancer going bad.

I just did the whole cooling system, new hoses, thermostat, CTS, radiator. Timing belt was done in december but I didn't do the water pump. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif flame away



Why do something once when you can do it twice for twice the knuckle bashing?
 

coyotes

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This is my first time doing timing on 4g63, my mechanic friend did it for me in December. I don't have a garage but the weather has been nice so I did it myself.
 

coyotes

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Ok so I need some more help. The tensioner pulley rubs on the water pump in almost every range of its adjustment on the tensioner pulley arm. Is there supposed to be a washer behind it? I am not missing any hardware or put anything back in a wrong spot to my knowlege...

If I tension the belt properly so the grenade pin goes in and out easily, the timing belt rubs against the bolt securing the tensioner pulley arm to the engine mount. It was suggested I tension the bolt CCW even though the 1g guide says go CW. I cannot properly set tension on the belt going CW due to no room for my tensioner tool. What gives?? I am really frustrated, bummed I can't fix my car. Please help




Nothing is tensioned in this picture, I am just showing to show where I am at. Is there supposed to be a washer behind the tensioner pulley to space things out? Sorry I sound like an idiot but I just want to make my car run again.
 
Last edited:

GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
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3,461
Location
SoCal
The pulley will only rub only when the tensioner is in the wrong position. There is no spacer behind it. If it is rubbing, it's not positioned correctly. I'm not sure what this method of tensioning the belt using the grenade pin is all about. I've never heard of that, and that's probably what's throwing you off. There should be a 3.8-4.5 between the tensioner arm and body. I use a 4mm allen wrench to set the gap when I do my belts. Quit trying to use the grenade pin as a reference for tensioning the belt, and I bet you'll get it right no problem.
 

brisvr4

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Feb 13, 2004
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955
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brisbane australia
The pulley is clocked wrong. it needs to be cw.
I use a method that I found on vfaq using a drill bit to set tension.
Works easy and hasn't failed me with multiple timing belt jobs over the last decade or so!

Below is taken directly from vfaq.


"Here is how I set the tension whether I am using a new tensioner or not:

I do not use an Allen wrench on the tensioner as noted previously, I just let the tensioner expand all the way
Once the belt is installed, I place a .150" drillbit (or the nearest larger size I have) on the top of the tensioner body, and screw in the tensioner tool until it captures the drillbit between the tensioner body and tensioner pulley bracket. When the bracket is close to the drillbit, I start spinning the drillbit, and stop screwing in the tool as soon as the bracket stops it from spinning. In other words, I stop when the pulley bracket is just snug against the bit.
I place a flatblade screwdriver between the engine and tensioner pulley, and lightly pry up on the pulley
I torque the pulley down
I back off the tensioner tool several turns, and immediately check the tensioner gap - if it has gotten too small or too large right away, I redo the steps above, changing the pressure used on the screwdriver. If the gap looks OK, I spin the engine 6 turns and wait 15 minutes and check the gap again.
There are other ways to do this, but this works best for me"

click
 
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