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Removing head

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
The fsm lists head removal before throttle body and intake manifold removal. Does this imply that the head can be removed with tb and intake still installed? Is it better to remove tb and intake before tackling the head?
 

se7enine

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Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Reno, NV
Leaving the throttle body and intake on makes the removal faster and gives you something to grasp at when lifting the head. Some have done this w/ the manifold and turbo on as well.
 

Scase90

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
53
Location
Saint Robert, MO
This guy is right^^^^^ Take his advise it works, ive done it also.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Just make sure to get the bottom intake manifold bracket bolt out, and disconnect the knock sensor from the bracket as well.
 

paul j

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Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Is it easier, or best to leave cams attached when pulling head? Does a machine shop want them on for valve job?

Is it okay to use impact gun on head bolts? I am not having much luck using breaker bar with cheater. I saw in archives impact is not recommended for crank pulley.
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
You can pull the head with the cams in, however if you getting a valve job the machine shop will need them removed. Your better off removing the cams, rockers and lifters. Be sure to organize them so all parts go back to where they came from. You'll need to strip the head, otherwise they might charge a disassembly fee. You can use an impact on the head bolts, but I don't recommend it. Sometimes you can loosen the bolts by striking the head of the bolt with a punch and hammer. The impact can loosen up the threads. I have a 3ft breaker bar that hasn't failed me before.

I pull the head by disconnecting the turbo to manifold bolts. Be sure to disconnect and tie back all the wiring also. Don't lose the two dowels that align the head to block. The head will pretty much lift straight up. I always pull the hood off so I have better lighting and more room to work.

Good luck!
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Iceman where is the bottom intake manifold bracket bolt at? At ends of or under throttle body? I have head bolts removed and hopefully everything else needed but I am having trouble lifting up tb and seeing movement. When I pry at ex man side of head everything wiggles.
How much does the head, tb unit weigh?
Is the knock sensor behind the AC compressor bracket? I saw a connector going down there and disconnected it but cannot tell what it is connected to.
I suppose I have to get the head picked up and see if anything is still attached.
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
I've always removed the head with the cams, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, fuel rail, coilpack and throttle body connected. It's just easier that way.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Quoting paul j:
Iceman where is the bottom intake manifold bracket bolt at? At ends of or under throttle body? I have head bolts removed and hopefully everything else needed but I am having trouble lifting up tb and seeing movement. When I pry at ex man side of head everything wiggles.
How much does the head, tb unit weigh?
Is the knock sensor behind the AC compressor bracket? I saw a connector going down there and disconnected it but cannot tell what it is connected to.
I suppose I have to get the head picked up and see if anything is still attached.



Lowest bolt is into the block. You need to get it from underneath. the knock sensor is attached to the manifold support bracket (just above the bolt you need to remove). It is screwed into the block, so it will be damaged if you pull the manifold and support without unhooking it.
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Thanks for the info everyone. Head is off. I tried to rotate crank with socket drive and it would not turn so I thought it is still in gear. Put it in neutral and it did not rotate CW but I reversed a little bit and it moved a little then moved very freely CW and CCW in gear or out. Any idea what it might be?
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
How long was the engine sitting? Sometimes it could just get sticky due to lack of oil and sitting for a while.
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
It was sitting a few weeks. When I first started work on the engine with only the timing belt removed I could not rotate the cams. I don't remember if I tried it in and out of gear but since the crank moves easily with head off it seems like in or out of gear does not matter. When I removed the cams one of them did not come out easily. I will be digging in to it more shortly.
Thanks prove_it.
 

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
Now that the head is off and heading to machine shop to be checked, is there anything that should be done while they are working on it? I am putting a evo3 turbo on also. If several valves are bent is there any advantage to replacing all of them with something better like nitrided ones or are oem fine? More angles on valve? Lighter valves? Better lifters? Retainers? Several rockers are pitted on the valve end so at least some of them will be replaced- so put in 3g?. Better guides? Slight porting? How about cams? I will have them mic'd to see if they are in spec and straight and if they are bad what should be put back in? Replace head bolts with studs? It is dd and usually don't even get the turbo into boost but I like power when I want it. I am not averse to a little extra power if it is not too expensive but I like durability and minimal maintenance.
Thanks for your views.
 

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
3G are lifters not rockers
 

James

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Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
In short- less chance of hearing the ole ticktickticktickticktickticktick
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Quoting paul j:
Now that the head is off and heading to machine shop to be checked, is there anything that should be done while they are working on it? I am putting a evo3 turbo on also. If several valves are bent is there any advantage to replacing all of them with something better like nitrided ones or are oem fine? More angles on valve? Lighter valves? Better lifters? Retainers? Several rockers are pitted on the valve end so at least some of them will be replaced- so put in 3g?. Better guides? Slight porting? How about cams? I will have them mic'd to see if they are in spec and straight and if they are bad what should be put back in? Replace head bolts with studs? It is dd and usually don't even get the turbo into boost but I like power when I want it. I am not averse to a little extra power if it is not too expensive but I like durability and minimal maintenance.
Thanks for your views.



How much money do you have? New valves are good, but not needed. 3 angle valve jobs are fine, 5 angle is better but won't make a big difference. Cams are your best power to dollar mod. Head studs are a good investment, I always replace the stock bolts anyway so for a few extra dollars the studs are better. Don't worry about porting, it won't help you out that much. Evo rockers are lighter, and newer, but stock replacement rockers are fine. I'm sure I have a used set in great shape. Yes, get the 3g lifters, they are quieter and newer.
 
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