Not running right

[Captn]

Alright my car is running like crap! First off it sounds like a Subaru and that makes me sad, runs very poorly and does not want to accelerate.

Things I did already!

Replaced spark plugs and wires - I noticed some oil in the wells, I didn't clean out yet for some reason.
Tried a different coil pack
Replaced fuel pump ( had some issues with the last one some junk get in it )340 to evo pump

My fuel pressure is fine
My wideband is fine
oil pressure is normal
The car will boost if I force it but it really struggles and I don't like doing it
Car shakes really bad in high gears

Mods for the car
560s
2g maf
272 bcs
mid port head
.20 over block
3076r
ets fmic kit
tial q bov
39mm tial WG

Things that were just done to the car!

New oil pump
Rewire fuel pump
Fixed gas leak

I am wondering if the car skipped timing a tooth, this is a newly rebuilt motor and was running fine a few days ago.

I don't think the timing was mechanically accurate because the indicators on the cam gears didn't seem to match up. Is this even possible?

I have no idea what to do with timing.

I can get it TDC after work tomorrow, but I still don't know 100% on what I am doing with timing.

-Super noob fails

 

[mitsuturbo]

My car sounded a LITTLE like a subie when my PowerTR unit went out and i was only getting spark on 1&4. Check for spark on both coils.

My car sounded exactly like a subaru on two different occasions.

1st occasion - burnt valve
2nd occasion - head gasket blew out between 2 and 3. I drove on it like this for a few miles to get it home. It burnt a nice chunk out of the head, rendering it useless without having it welded up.

I'd strongly suggest doing a compression test if the ignition system checks out ok.

 

[gvr4ever]

I have/had the same problem. For me, a injector seems to have failed. They are off for a cleaning, so I don't have a final report yet, but they were 560s too.

If you have a logger, disable the injectors one by one and see if anything doesn't make a change in the way the engine sounds. See if you can narrow the problem down to one cylinder.

 

[Captn]

Well I am going to do a compression test later on it, I really hope its not that because I can't afford it and its my only car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif

I know my injectors are dirty too so I will pull them and clean em. I sold my stock injectors a while ago too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[gvr4ever]

You can do a compression test, but if it was working right and it just randomly stopped, then it is probably something else. Unless you were over boosting and beating the piss out of it, then ya, you could have done something.

It's going to be hard to get a true compression test if spark of fuel is not working right. The cylinder won't be up to full temp. If your missing spark, you don't want to be dumping raw fuel in the engine. Try and diagnose spark/fuel.

I think only you would know if you've done something to blow a piston ring. They aren't prone to just fail for no reason in these cars.

 

[Jason G.]

Quote:
It's going to be hard to get a true compression test if spark of fuel is not working right



Uh what? Neither of those will give a false compression reading.

To check timing put the crank pulley on TDC and see where your cam gears line up.

 

[gvr4ever]

I didn't say false, I said true. He could just do a cold compression test to find out of a cylinder is reading zero, but fuel cools and lubricates. I would expect a lack of fuel to change the readings. Without knowing if he is missing spark or fuel, I wouldn't want to risk dumping fuel in to my engine with no spark, but that's just me. After speaker with a local engine builder, unless the compression is really low, the engine can still work well with boost.

Either way, having to deal with this problem myself, and reading tons of random DSM post all over the internet, the fix for this problem has been changing out the CAS, coil pack, etc. It can be hard to trace down, but it is more likely a fuel or spark issue then a bad engine. Only the owner knows how the cars been driven, but these engines are pretty stout.

If the timing belt is older, then I would check the timing. Can't hurt, but if the engine wasn't making nasty noises when you shut it off, then your valves are probably safe. Check for boost leaks too. Another thing I read that causes the car to run like this is a bad MAF, but that should throw a CEL.

 

[Jason G.]

No, fuel needs to be disabled before testing. Doing it your way, how do you create spark if your using the spark plug hole for the compression tester?

Fuel does not give you a "true" compression reading.

Here's the vfaq on how to properly test for compression

 

[gvr4ever]

I know how to do a compression test. Step one is warming up the engine to full operating temperature. How can you properly do that without fuel? Or if your getting fuel without spark, running the engine could possibly cause a hydro-lock situation. This is why I suggested a cold test. See if one cylinder is at zero.

I'm not trying to make a thing out of this, but I wouldn't run my own engine without fuel or spark for any period of time, and I wouldn't recommend anyone else do it either. If the OP feels like trying to do a compression test, then go for it. Just voicing my concerns. sh*t can them if you will.

 

[Jason G.]

Now your twisting your words around. You suggested doing a compression test with fuel and spark active, not to warm up enough to get the battery voltage up, (which they usually are).

And hydro-lock? Srsly?

 

[turbowop]

You worded it a bit weird, dude. Even I was looking at your posts regarding compressions tests like /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif .

A cold compression test is fine and will still help to show any difference between cylinders. The results will most likely just be lower.

 

[gvr4ever]

Quoting Jason G.:
Now your twisting your words around. You suggested doing a compression test with fuel and spark active, not to warm up enough to get the battery voltage up, (which they usually are).

And hydro-lock? Srsly?



Looking back, it was badly worded, but I assumed everyone knew the first step. Warming the car up. Fuel and spark would be required for this, or one cylinder could be colder or hotter then the rest. All the subie sounding post I found online were due to either missing spark or fuel.

Srsly? Dump fuel into your own engine without knowing if you have spark if your so comfortable with that. Running a engine without fuel to lubricate, or fuel without spark could damage pistons rings. The odds might be slim, but why take the chance?

I'm gonna stop posting now. Trying to help, turned around and bit me in the ass.

 

[BadVr4]

sounds like your either down a cylinder or your timing is off

 

Check your cam angle sensor to make sure it is working properly. Search for instructions on how to do this, BEFORE you remove it. You will need to mark the spot where it is so you can put it back the same after you have checked it.

Also check your transistor with a known working one. It is a slim device attacked to the intake manifold/head right under the coil pack, under where the spark plug wires come down from the valve cover.

Also check your injector resistor pack, this part is silver and attached to the fire wall next to the cruise control box, to the right of it.

Another thing to check is your ecu. Open the case and check the board for any acid leaking from the caps.

 

[Captn]

160 across the board

Fuel and spark check out

I have to do a boost leak test yet

I am pretty sure my resistor box is fine but I will double check

I am going to check my transistor too

I think everything is pointing to a boost leak IMO I will let you guys know

Ecu is fine also

Thanks everyone for the input, wish me luck!

 

[Captn]

uh... Its fine now? started it and rev'd a bit no Subawho sounds, drove it and it seems fine.

Kinda lean but I can figure that out, I am confused though? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Captn]

Ok its back! I am going to try and find a boost leak later, no air compressor but I will do my best.

 

[citymunky]

use a bike air pump

 

[toybreaker]

Disable one injector at time and see if the problem localizes to one cylinder.

 

[Captn]

So I still haven't found the problem, the car idles lean like 20 + lean.

I unplugged each injector at a time and it didn't really make a difference between them.

Still pretty confused.