Need some quick opinions on a reliable, aestheticly pleasing, boost gauge, and what are some of the vets opinions on manual or electronic as far as boost controllers? I hear mixed opinions. Thanks in advance for any help givin /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
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I like greddy products usually. Just sick of getting a new gauge like every year. As far as the controller Q, I'm just looking for some pro's and con's of manual and electronic BC's
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
I've run HKS, Greddy, and Blitz EBCs. I liked the HKS EVC EZ. The HKS EVC IV sucked balls, and was unreliable. The Greddy profecs (a, b and b2) are absolutely sh*t. Worse than the EVC IV, IMO.
I've been running the Blitz SBC-iD for a very long time now, and i absolutely love the thing. Before that i had the Dual SBC spec R, and it was amazing as well. NEVER had creep, spike, or any boost issues with the Blitz units, and they're VERY easy to dial in. The profecs and EVC4 are a total pain in the ass to deal with. Every MBC i've ever had the displeasure of dealing with, be it on my car, or someone else's has shown itself to allow either boost spikes, or slower boost curves than the EBCs. MBCs work well for a lot of people, but when comparing them to a quality EBC, they're just not the same.
The nice thing about good EBCs is that they ARE a gauge. Among other reasons, I run the SBC-iD because it shows the boost curve, digital peak and current boost, in psi or metric. Also, it can display oil and fuel pressure, as well as voltage. (with appropriate sensors and harness) It will show current and peak values for these things as well. So, basically, the way i have mine set up, it's 4 gauges in one. Boost, OP, FP, and voltage. I've mounted it in my visor, along with the power meter.
I've been running the Blitz SBC-iD for a very long time now, and i absolutely love the thing. Before that i had the Dual SBC spec R, and it was amazing as well. NEVER had creep, spike, or any boost issues with the Blitz units, and they're VERY easy to dial in. The profecs and EVC4 are a total pain in the ass to deal with. Every MBC i've ever had the displeasure of dealing with, be it on my car, or someone else's has shown itself to allow either boost spikes, or slower boost curves than the EBCs. MBCs work well for a lot of people, but when comparing them to a quality EBC, they're just not the same.
The nice thing about good EBCs is that they ARE a gauge. Among other reasons, I run the SBC-iD because it shows the boost curve, digital peak and current boost, in psi or metric. Also, it can display oil and fuel pressure, as well as voltage. (with appropriate sensors and harness) It will show current and peak values for these things as well. So, basically, the way i have mine set up, it's 4 gauges in one. Boost, OP, FP, and voltage. I've mounted it in my visor, along with the power meter.
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Very nice info mitsu. Appreciate it
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
I'm sure others will report that their MBC is great and they've never had any issue with it. There's nothing WRONG with them. I just don't care to use them. I've seen a report recently that someone's Blitz unit lost power, was set up in a dual port config, (external gate) and they over boosted, causing damage to their engine. IDK how this could happen, unless they never look at their EBC. I like to keep mine in plain sight, and check it often. I'd notice immediately if it shut off. Of course, if you run it single port config, this can never happen. I like running dual port, because it seems to respond faster and give a better curve on the boost. I've seen MBCs have problems too. TurboXS seems to make about the best MBC i've seen yet. I know some guys really like the Greddy EBCs, but it seems to be commonplace to hear they're kind of a pain to set up. I just didn't like them at all.
citymunky
Well-known member
I'm with mitsuturbo on this. My first MBC was the Joe P MBC that came on my galant with I 1st got it. That thing was a POS, the gay part IMO of a MBC, is pulling over on the side of road to make adjustments. EBC's can be adjusted from the drivers seat. Yes I know some of the pricey Hallman's have the ability to for cockpit control, but EBC's are still better in my book.
turbowop
Well-known member
So you have to pull over a couple times to make adjustments...when you first install the thing. I haven't touched the MBC in either car since I first set them years ago. How often do you really need to adjust boost settings? I will always prefer MBC. Simple, cheap, and effective.
citymunky
Well-known member
^ we are not going there again, remember what happened last time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
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If you need to adjust boost often, get an electronic one. If you don't plan on changing it often, get a quality mbc like a Hallman and call it a day.
I have a manual controller in my GVR4, as the boost level doesn't ever get changed. I have an Apexi AVCR in my STI, and I have to admit it is very convenient. But in the STI, I am constantly changing my boost. I have a setting for the street, and a setting for the drag strip. I don't need nearly 400whp when I'm driving spiritedly on back country roads. I also like than I can turn my EBC off and the car runs on just wastegate spring pressure. I do this when I rally-x.
I have a manual controller in my GVR4, as the boost level doesn't ever get changed. I have an Apexi AVCR in my STI, and I have to admit it is very convenient. But in the STI, I am constantly changing my boost. I have a setting for the street, and a setting for the drag strip. I don't need nearly 400whp when I'm driving spiritedly on back country roads. I also like than I can turn my EBC off and the car runs on just wastegate spring pressure. I do this when I rally-x.
I've had the Profec A, B-spec II(currently) and the Joe P. They all did their job, but the Profec A was by far the easiest. The only gripe I have about the B-Spec II is that it is do damn confusing with all the features that it has. You have to mess with the gain to dial it right and the kpa to psi conversion always gives me a headache. The Joe P was annoying at first when you have to find your desired setting, but after you find it...you can just set it and forget it.
Quoting mitsuturbo:
I've run HKS, Greddy, and Blitz EBCs. I liked the HKS EVC EZ. The HKS EVC IV sucked balls, and was unreliable. The Greddy profecs (a, b and b2) are absolutely sh*t. Worse than the EVC IV, IMO.
I've been running the Blitz SBC-iD for a very long time now, and i absolutely love the thing. Before that i had the Dual SBC spec R, and it was amazing as well. NEVER had creep, spike, or any boost issues with the Blitz units, and they're VERY easy to dial in. The profecs and EVC4 are a total pain in the ass to deal with. Every MBC i've ever had the displeasure of dealing with, be it on my car, or someone else's has shown itself to allow either boost spikes, or slower boost curves than the EBCs. MBCs work well for a lot of people, but when comparing them to a quality EBC, they're just not the same.
The nice thing about good EBCs is that they ARE a gauge. Among other reasons, I run the SBC-iD because it shows the boost curve, digital peak and current boost, in psi or metric. Also, it can display oil and fuel pressure, as well as voltage. (with appropriate sensors and harness) It will show current and peak values for these things as well. So, basically, the way i have mine set up, it's 4 gauges in one. Boost, OP, FP, and voltage. I've mounted it in my visor, along with the power meter.
Can you give more info on why you think the hks evc 4 is unreliable. I had two of them and they worked great. They are very expensive though and a bit more complex than most other boost controllers. I happened to like the vacuum display and I felt the quality of the hks unit was excellent.
The one thing bad about all electric boost controllers is yrying to get a air tight seal with a rubber hose on the plastic vacuum ports that protrude from the stepper device. If you are running a lot of boost the potential for air leaks is higher. The nice thing about manual controllers is you can run braided lines to them, such as the halman unit.
I've run HKS, Greddy, and Blitz EBCs. I liked the HKS EVC EZ. The HKS EVC IV sucked balls, and was unreliable. The Greddy profecs (a, b and b2) are absolutely sh*t. Worse than the EVC IV, IMO.
I've been running the Blitz SBC-iD for a very long time now, and i absolutely love the thing. Before that i had the Dual SBC spec R, and it was amazing as well. NEVER had creep, spike, or any boost issues with the Blitz units, and they're VERY easy to dial in. The profecs and EVC4 are a total pain in the ass to deal with. Every MBC i've ever had the displeasure of dealing with, be it on my car, or someone else's has shown itself to allow either boost spikes, or slower boost curves than the EBCs. MBCs work well for a lot of people, but when comparing them to a quality EBC, they're just not the same.
The nice thing about good EBCs is that they ARE a gauge. Among other reasons, I run the SBC-iD because it shows the boost curve, digital peak and current boost, in psi or metric. Also, it can display oil and fuel pressure, as well as voltage. (with appropriate sensors and harness) It will show current and peak values for these things as well. So, basically, the way i have mine set up, it's 4 gauges in one. Boost, OP, FP, and voltage. I've mounted it in my visor, along with the power meter.
Can you give more info on why you think the hks evc 4 is unreliable. I had two of them and they worked great. They are very expensive though and a bit more complex than most other boost controllers. I happened to like the vacuum display and I felt the quality of the hks unit was excellent.
The one thing bad about all electric boost controllers is yrying to get a air tight seal with a rubber hose on the plastic vacuum ports that protrude from the stepper device. If you are running a lot of boost the potential for air leaks is higher. The nice thing about manual controllers is you can run braided lines to them, such as the halman unit.
citymunky
Well-known member
^ I use zip ties.
So do I but another problem is the heat wears out the rubber over time and most people install vacuum lines and then forget they were ever there.
Im just saying, after considering my experience with both over the hears.
Normal car with 350 or less hp - electric is fine.
More extreme car with more than 400 hp - manual is better.
Very extreme because race car - ems controls boost.
When I find a nice vr4 I'm going with a manual and ss braided lines for peace of mind.
Im just saying, after considering my experience with both over the hears.
Normal car with 350 or less hp - electric is fine.
More extreme car with more than 400 hp - manual is better.
Very extreme because race car - ems controls boost.
When I find a nice vr4 I'm going with a manual and ss braided lines for peace of mind.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Quoting PearsVR4:
Can you give more info on why you think the hks evc 4 is unreliable. I had two of them and they worked great. They are very expensive though and a bit more complex than most other boost controllers. I happened to like the vacuum display and I felt the quality of the hks unit was excellent.
The "offset" seems to have to be changed with the weather, or else the boost seems to not always hit the same exact mark on every pull. Mine was like this, and so was someone else's i knew. One day it would hold 1.2bar, the next day it might spike to 1.25bar. It was constantly off by a little bit. I hated the thing. Switched to a Blitz and never had another problem.
Can you give more info on why you think the hks evc 4 is unreliable. I had two of them and they worked great. They are very expensive though and a bit more complex than most other boost controllers. I happened to like the vacuum display and I felt the quality of the hks unit was excellent.
The "offset" seems to have to be changed with the weather, or else the boost seems to not always hit the same exact mark on every pull. Mine was like this, and so was someone else's i knew. One day it would hold 1.2bar, the next day it might spike to 1.25bar. It was constantly off by a little bit. I hated the thing. Switched to a Blitz and never had another problem.
The only times I ever had issues with over boost was when it was really cold outside, I suspect the internal gate on my 16g was not able to keep up with regulating boost.
Did you follow the instructions upon install and do the learning process? The eve iv is unlike any other controller I had ever used in that you need to make some pulls so it can "learn" the power band. You may have experienced boost issues due to internal gate, or user error. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Did you follow the instructions upon install and do the learning process? The eve iv is unlike any other controller I had ever used in that you need to make some pulls so it can "learn" the power band. You may have experienced boost issues due to internal gate, or user error. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
citymunky
Well-known member
^^ My EVC III was like that, it needed a full Boost pull to learn.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Quoting PearsVR4:
The only times I ever had issues with over boost was when it was really cold outside, I suspect the internal gate on my 16g was not able to keep up with regulating boost.
Did you follow the instructions upon install and do the learning process? The eve iv is unlike any other controller I had ever used in that you need to make some pulls so it can "learn" the power band. You may have experienced boost issues due to internal gate, or user error. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Followed the instructions to the letter. Ran it with an external gate. Switched to a Blitz and my boost curve suddenly became 100% reliable, regardless of weather or temperature. I liked the EVC4 WHEN I HAD IT, but it caused me some frustration. Now that i've been using the Blitz, i don't care for the EVC4 at all.
The only times I ever had issues with over boost was when it was really cold outside, I suspect the internal gate on my 16g was not able to keep up with regulating boost.
Did you follow the instructions upon install and do the learning process? The eve iv is unlike any other controller I had ever used in that you need to make some pulls so it can "learn" the power band. You may have experienced boost issues due to internal gate, or user error. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Followed the instructions to the letter. Ran it with an external gate. Switched to a Blitz and my boost curve suddenly became 100% reliable, regardless of weather or temperature. I liked the EVC4 WHEN I HAD IT, but it caused me some frustration. Now that i've been using the Blitz, i don't care for the EVC4 at all.
Interesting.
Eh, I still think manual is the most reliable. Hallman cockpit adjustable = done. Hallman cockpit adjustable with ceramic ball and ss brainded lines = never have to buy another bc again. I had one sans braided lines and it worked great.
Eh, I still think manual is the most reliable. Hallman cockpit adjustable = done. Hallman cockpit adjustable with ceramic ball and ss brainded lines = never have to buy another bc again. I had one sans braided lines and it worked great.
Really good stuff guys! I appreciate all who has responded with there help and opinions.
