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Replacement Timing Belt - in North Jersey

I'm looking for someone in Northern New Jersey, to replace my timing belt and address the damage caused when it broke.
 
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Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
T-belt job is an easy 4 hour job, fixing valve/piston damage is something completely different.

Good luck.
 

I know, I project that by the time I repair the car, the money spent will equal to the resale value of the car. I am the original order and I do not want to part with it.
 

Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
Was the car running when the timing belt snapped or Did you catch it on time
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
No, i'm sure the timing belt snapped while IT WAS PARKED... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif of course there's bent valves.

There's a 90% chance the pistons are fine.. some little dings wont hurt sh*t. If a mangled spark plug is pulled out, the piston in that hole will need to be replaced (at the very least) along with the head.

If it's just a broken timing belt, OP will need a new set of valves, probably guides, gasket set for the head, timing belt, and a little machine work. I would hazard a guess that the total cost of this "mishap" will run about $650 if it's a DIY job, or $1250 if paying someone to fix it. Bring it to me, and i'll happily do it for $1250, parts included, if a valve didn't bust off in the combustion chamber.

I strongly suggest, if on a limited budget (as most of us are) to look up engnbldr on ebay and buy a set of valves, guides, and 3g lifters. Should run around $200. Then get a gasket set as well, for around $100. Have the machine shop touch up the seats and install guides, and put it all back together yourself. This should put you around the $650 mark for cost of parts and machine work.
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
you can take out spark plugs and try to look at pistons /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

or say f*** it and take head off..

( THAT WAY IF VALVES ARE BENT, JUST GET NEW ONES,if pistons are ok)
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
The head will have to come off, regardless. Never does a timing belt skip/break and no valves get bent. OP will need a 10, 12, 14 and 17mm socket, as well as a 10mm hex bit to remove the head. Have fun with the two 14mm bolts on the underside of the intake manifold.

FYI, it's best/easiest to remove the head with the fuel rail, injectors, CAS, both manifolds and TB/TBE attached. Pull the valve cover, the 4 bolts to turbo, the two 14mm headed bolts on the intake manifold bracket, the water lines to the TB, fuel lines at the rail (4 bolts), oil line to the turbo, the water neck (held on with 3 bolts) 3 bolts to the front timing cover, and any vac lines to the TB, disconnect the entire engine wiring harness and throttle cable, pull the 10 head bolts, and remove the head.

Should take about an hour, tops, if you've never done this before.
 
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yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
^ good advice..

my friend actually had his tbelt snap, and he was on the road cranking it a few times before he realized the belt snapped.
he aid he didnt hear any metal clanking, i think they came be off by 3 teeth and not hit..

(dont recall if they valves bent or not, probably did)
 

desant78

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Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
Hey man are you Washington twp 07882? I used to live and frequent the area often. (P.s. if you cant het anyone else to help i could but ive only done the job once, and the engine isnt even the car yet lol so i would not be much more help thand the vfaq)
 

Barnes

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
Although very rare, it is possible for a t-belt to skip and not damage anything. My friends GF had a 1gb Talon AWD and it stripped the teeth off the t-belt around the crank sprocket while idling in a parking lot. We assumed, like so many, that there was damage. We end up taking the head off and everything looks perfect. We take it to a machine shop anyway, and they confirm that nothing was bent.

However, I do think this can only happen under very particular circumstances.
 

Dark_Horse

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Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
303
Location
Morrison, CO
Quoting mitsuturbo:
Have fun with the two 14mm bolts on the underside of the intake manifold.



I found it easiest to drop the transfer case & downpipe to get to those 2 bolts. T-case & downpipe only take 10 minutes to remove. You'd spend 10 minutes trying to figure out another way to get at those bolts.

Plus, it gives you a chance to drain and replace the fluid in the t-case anyway.
 

desant78

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
Quoting nrallye:
I'm at 07853, I think I found someone in PA that can help.



I'm insanely close to you on the weekends then. All my friends and family live in the 08826 (lebanon Township)

Great to see another vr4 so close! we should meet up at island dragway one day when I'm running.
 

James

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Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
I've never had an issue with the bolts under the manifold. Then again I've been doing this for some years now lol. Maybe I did in the beginning. 500 head jobs ago
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting James:
I've never had an issue with the bolts under the manifold. Then again I've been doing this for some years now lol. Maybe I did in the beginning. 500 head jobs ago



Sometimes those two bolts which bolt into the intake manifold and hold the steel bracket, are VERY, VERY, VERY tight. Being as they face upward, it's kind of difficult to get at them. Of course, i haven't put that bracket BACK onto any of my cars.
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Quoting transparentdsm:
haha i was thinking the same thing... those bolts under the manifold are easy... open ended box wrench...



You realize, an open end wrench, and a box end wrench, are two totally different things, right?

I don't see an open ended wrench working too well on those two bolts. A box end wrench is hard to get in there, since that bracket kind of shrouds the bolts. A crowsfoot boxend wrench works okay, but then you run into clearance issues with the length, or leverage issues if it's short enough to fit in there well.

I've had good luck using a lateral extension, like this...
chain_ext_1.jpg
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
yeah i know the difference,, i spray a bunch of PB blast in there and wait like 15 -20 minutes, since its aluminum it doesn't rust, and they usually fall out for me.
 
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