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IDLE driving me crazy

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
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san diego california
So since I bought the car it surges when cold and stalls when hot, even after i put the new motor in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif(not suprised)

So my iac is good
My egr and fiav not so sure about

Should I completely rebuild a TB and throw that on there or should i try a fiav block off plate?

Im guessing its the heat sensitive spring in the fiav?
 

James

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Apr 7, 2012
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1,322
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Port richey Florida
Take off the TB and rebuild it. While its off take out the bronze blog and back out the adjustment for the FIAV to close it. Put it Back together and correctly set your idle.
 

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
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san diego california
I've never been inside of a TB but I'm guessing there is a bronze plug you speak of, do they sell TB rebuild kits or do I just order new shaft seals?
I was thinking there is one that comes with biss screw and 0-ring,TB gaskets, shaft seals, maybe egr gasket..

Just wondering ive seen the shaft seals online Im going to search a TB rebuild kit
 

James

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I bought mine from MachV, shaft seals that is. My BISS seal is fine soci didn't search for it.
 

Make sure your throttle cable is properly adjusted, it could be not allowing the tb to shut completely
 

rgeier11

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Sep 26, 2004
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726
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Chicago Suburbs, IL
There are a ton of things to take into consideration for idle. No boost leaks, a good working ISC, a good ECU, good working throttle closed switch, clean throttle body, etc.
 

KiNgMaRtY

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Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
Buy a JM FIAV block off plate that leaves the ISC functional. It is only $15. Try that first before you send out your TB to get rebuilt. Have you done a boost leak test as of yet? I've had idle surge for nearly a year now changing out the ISC, block off plate and trying other things. I finally got to do a boost leak test and found my Intake Manifold gasket is leaking. I'm in the process of trying to remove it to change out the gasket

Try this linkm it is very helpful

click
 

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Quoting rgeier11:
There are a ton of things to take into consideration for idle. No boost leaks, a good working ISC, a good ECU, good working throttle closed switch, clean throttle body, etc.



Surges when cold stalls when hot..

I have no boost leaks other than TB, I have a good working isc,good ecu,idle switch? good if so, never clean throttle body, im going to switch to another TB i have tomorrow.

also im going to rebuild my TB
 
Last edited:

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
so over this damned idle. i just swapped complete throttle bodys...

im going to be rebuilding my old one..

i took my egr off and was going to switch it but i thought the ecu would make a CEL if it was bad so left it on..

what the hell could it be??

ONLY 2 Boost leaks are at TB shaft seal, and tap in j pipe
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Yakima, WA
Have you even set the BISS on either TB? (the proper way) Base timing? Idle switch? Lots of things could be wrong. You should probably do some research.
 

desant78

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Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
If you want your TB rebuilt, a member on here 4nmscle sells all the seals you need. Hey will also rebuild the TB too if you send it out ot him. He's a great guy and starting up a shop so I suggest PMing him if you need someone to rebuild the TB.
 

James

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1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
If you have leaks as early as the Jpipe then you dont know all the leaks you may have. Lets put it this way...

My first leak was at the Jpipe.
When i fixed that i found a leap at the UICP/IC.
After fixing that i found one at the BOV flange
After that the TB needed to be rebuild
Then the FIAV

Now that i have from the turbo to the TB sealed... Today after a leak test i see my intake manifold is leaking.

When you fix one leak it adds that much more pressure to the next part in line.

If everything is properly sealed, the idle is properly set, the MAF/TPS/ISC/Throttle stop are all in working order, ecu is in woring order, throttle cable positioned correctly then you should have no idle problems. Though im sure i forgot something in that list
 

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Quoting turbowop:
Have you even set the BISS on either TB? (the proper way) Base timing? Idle switch? Lots of things could be wrong. You should probably do some research.



no im just a big ugly f***ing troll!!!!( yes i did)


and i hold 20 psi for awhile i can hear only a tiny bit of air rushing out shaft seal j pipe fixed...

i think im going to chagne egr then order fiav block off plate..

i sim. idle switch with dsmlink
 
Last edited:

turbowop

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Yakima, WA
And are you sure your TPS is adjusted properly so that ECMlink is actually seeing a closed idle switch by logging it?

A bad FIAV won't cause stalling when the car is warm. It usually causes a really high cold idle and surging until the engine is fully warmed up.

I assume since you're in Kalifornia is the reason you want to keep EGR? Otherwise I would just ditch it. Hell, keep it on, but sandwich a block-off plate between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. Nobody will know and it's reversible for when you take the car in to be smogged.
 
Last edited:

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
yes ecmlink is reading 0% throttleat idle and idle switch is switched to 1, as for the fiav, i do get high idle and surge when cold but then once it heats up it stalls?

could it be the egr?

and i dont care about smog, i will try to block off egr, do i keep vacuum lines running to it?
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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If you want to keep it looking stock for the authorities, leave the vac lines. Otherwise, just do the full emissions removal.
 

yeti

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Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
since the egr is blocked off it would act as if the lines were plugged?

will do, if the egr was bad the ecu would tell me right
?
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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11,971
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Is your car a California emissions car? On teh federal cars, the ECU won't throw any code for the EGR. It doesn't even have any wires running to it. I'm not sure about Cali cars that actually use the EGR temperature circuit.
 

yeti

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Preety sure i got a cali car.

There IS wires in the back of the egr looks like a temp sensor..

Only thing i could think of that isnt working right is the isc but it test's good, ecmlink just does not read it right..
I checked wire to ecu and its still intact, maybe i should prob it and check for continuity?
 
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