Quoting DynastyLCD:
i ended up buying the one piece front cross member, that doesn't include the smaller N/S bars. the factory bars got cut to keep the bracing between the K-member. my reasoning against the 3 piece was that i felt as if the N/S bars on that setup just aren't going to support it enough, but cutting the bars and using the K-member side of it would keep it rigid. my 1g feels great, doesn't feel any different while cornering, still feels pretty solid to me. i opted for the poly mount instead of the solid mount. the weight savings is nice, the bar looks great, leaves more room for IC piping, etc.
fuel - i agree with what you said, that's why i got the one piece, and cut the bars to brace the K-member. now the K-member has most of the rigidity it originally had, and with the poly mount, the bar doesn't want to vibrate apart. its very sturdy. i jack my car up from this bar, and its actually more rigid than the stock one. no bushings to fail where the stock front crossmember would have bushings on either end (crossmember ends are solid)
i also destroy driveline parts like its my job, and this makes taking the trans out a little easier /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
IMO, this is the best way to do it, short of fabricating a 3 piece setup that has two mount points in the rear, so as to connect to the subframe at BOTH original connecting points. I don't know why the guy that made this didnt think about how the cars are built, and why that area needs to be supported. FFS, the pass side has a gusset with FIVE bolts holding it together. It's not just "there" for no reason. Apparently this yay-hoo thought it would just be fine to delete that support on the driver side.
It's not a good idea. Period.
Leave the crossmembers that run under the engine out, and drive your car for a week.... then try and put the driver side one back in without using a prybar. Believe me, it doesn't work out so well. My friend's beater DSM had it left out for a while. It was a total bitch to get it put back in.
