assembley lube question please help

[yeti]

So where do I put the lube on the bearing where the bearings meet the block surface or where the crank meets the bearing or both , same question for rods .

I've heard both, and I've heard just where bearing meets the crank.
I just wanna know so I can build my engine..

Please and thank you..

 

[Andy_S]

Everywhere

 

[toybreaker]

Do not put anything between the bearing shell and the block!

It will prevent the bearing from seating correctly, and may result in a spun bearing.

Assemble the shell into the clean and dry block web, make sure it registers correctly, then do the same for the cap.

The shells should kind of "spring" into place, and should stay exactly where you put them.

Then, you can slather on some lubriplate 105, (or my favorite, redline) assembly lube, install the clean crank, install the caps, lubricate the hardware per you application, and torque to the correct value for your particular hardware/lubricant choice.

Be sure to to set the thrust bearing/cap correctly. It's important to do this task the right way!

Make sure the crank spins easily before starting to install the rods, and check rotation after installing each of the rods.

 

[yeti]

I've herd this before about not putting it their is why I had to ask, and about setting the thrust bearing do you mean plastigauge it?

 

[ktmrider]

^^ If you have to ask.....

Not being an azz but you're wasting money and time right now. Pay someone who knows these things unless Toybreaker is willing to step you thru the entire build otherwise that motor won't last much past initial startup ( if it even fires ).

 

[Okayplayer]

^Give the guy a break. Everyone has to learn at some point, encourage him to do it. It's his money, time, and car. To the op, ask as many questions as you need to. And utilize vfaq where you can. Good luck.

 

[chach161]

I don't think you are wasting time or money. Building a motor is not rocket science. Some people just pay others to do to the work for them and that is fine too but I feel it is always better to learn and do it yourself. If it fails at 20,000mi I bet you will know what you did questionable but if you sent it to a shop you will always be guessing what they did or didn't do and they will not remember or probably not tell you if they do remember.
Good luck with your build.

 

[ktmrider]

Encourage along, wait til he comes back and blames YOU for his borked engine.

Used the two questions as evidence he has no business doing it himself. By the logic above CAN you be a rocket scientist by reading a Wiki and asking questions online?!? He even said he found posts saying to apply assembly lube to both faces of the bearing, typical for internet queries.

 

[rdomeck]

Yeti, Good luck with your build and ask as many questions as you need too! If you don't have a Haynes or similar manual you should get one. Open it up to the tolerance page and measure everything out and right it down before you do any assembly. Even install the upper crank bearing's with no lube, set the crank in and plasti-gauge every main and rod bearing before you slap on ay assembly lube. Do the same with the rods. Put all your rings in their bores one at a time without having them on the pistons to check you ring end gaps. All this while righting down the number's in your book that is still opened to the tolerance page. Place everything on the bench in the order that you need to reinstall it and have it numbered. Pull EVERYTHING back apart and clean it again.

That will take you a good day's worth of work before you do any final assembly. The assembly will then only take you a few hours. And you will have all the satisfaction of doing this job yourself. Everyone has to do something for the first time. It's how we learn from our mistakes not someone else's.

Good luck.

 

[AnotherNewb]

Quoting ktmrider:
^^ If you have to ask.....

Not being an azz but you're wasting money and time right now. Pay someone who knows these things unless Toybreaker is willing to step you thru the entire build otherwise that motor won't last much past initial startup ( if it even fires ).



Everyone has a first time for everything. Experiance is the best teacher IMO.

 

[Captn]

pssh rocket science is easy. Its all about rocket sugery!

Good luck with the rebuild! I am all about DIY!

 

[yeti]

You don't think iv'e learned anything, take a look at this post click
at that time i didnt even know how to change a tire,oil none of it...

Now, Ive removed an engine, I have torn down the whole front of my motor in a half hour and reassembled it within the hour,added fuel pump, injectors,exhaust,intake,ecmlink, i didnt know what half that sh*t did last year so before you go discouraging people think of who taught you and how many idiotic questions you asked....

Only cars ive lost to was a eclipse on 30lbs and a zr1, when i got the car it would barely move and i did not know how to BLT

And wasting experience and 300 for an assembly is a waste of money..

and are you saying assemble block without lube first time check clearences then disassemble, add lube and check clearences?

and i have to read more about checking piston ring end gap, I know they go diffrent degrees but don't know what i'm checking for, they are new pistons and rings.

 

[yeti]

You don't think iv'e learned anything, take a look at this post click
at that time i didnt even know how to change a tire,oil none of it...

Now, Ive removed an engine, I have torn down the whole front of my motor in a half hour and reassembled it within the hour,added fuel pump, injectors,exhaust,intake,ecmlink, i didnt know what half that sh*t did last year so before you go discouraging people think of who taught you and how many idiotic questions you asked....

Only cars ive lost to was a eclipse on 30lbs and a zr1, when i got the car it would barely move and i did not know how to BLT

And wasting experience and 300 for an assembly is a waste of money..

and are you saying assemble block without lube first time check clearences then disassemble, add lube and check clearences?

and i have to read more about checking piston ring end gap, I know they go diffrent degrees but don't know what i'm checking for, they are new pistons and rings.

 

[boostin4door]

Quoting chach161:
I don't think you are wasting time or money. Building a motor is not rocket science. Some people just pay others to do to the work for them and that is fine too but I feel it is always better to learn and do it yourself. If it fails at 20,000mi I bet you will know what you did questionable but if you sent it to a shop you will always be guessing what they did or didn't do and they will not remember or probably not tell you if they do remember.
Good luck with your build.



^ This ^ Good Luck

 

[rdomeck]

Quoting yeti:
You don't think iv'e learned anything, take a look at this post click
at that time i didnt even know how to change a tire,oil none of it...

Now, Ive removed an engine, I have torn down the whole front of my motor in a half hour and reassembled it within the hour,added fuel pump, injectors,exhaust,intake,ecmlink, i didnt know what half that sh*t did last year so before you go discouraging people think of who taught you and how many idiotic questions you asked....

Only cars ive lost to was a eclipse on 30lbs and a zr1, when i got the car it would barely move and i did not know how to BLT

And wasting experience and 300 for an assembly is a waste of money..

and are you saying assemble block without lube first time check clearences then disassemble, add lube and check clearences?

and i have to read more about checking piston ring end gap, I know they go diffrent degrees but don't know what i'm checking for, they are new pistons and rings.



After you check the clearances once and you make sure that you have everything marked the way you took it out you do not need to recheck anything. Just lube and assemble. The ring end gap should be checked on new rings. It pretty easy to do. Put a ring in the cylinder and push it down a 1/4 or 1/3 of the way with the piston and measure the gap with a set of feeler gauges. Write down the number and repeat for all rings and keep them in order or put them on the piston as you check them. Check the Haynes manual again for correct end gap. If they are too tight you can put a file in a vise and file the ends down to meet your requirements. If there too loose your bore is worn or your rings are not correct or are crappy rings! You want your ring end gaps to be 120 degree's from one another once they are on the piston and in the bore. They don't have to be exactly at 120 degree's from each other but somewhere around that.

 

[yeti]

You just cleared a lot up in my head about piston ring gap,

And I don't have to worry about scratching bearing crank or anything while rotating crank after installing crankanbearings with no lube and same for rods?

Should I just add engine lube as assembly lube? Assemble check specs disassemble add lube and re assemble

 

[yeti]

Also something I should add, when assembling the clean crank it might be a bit dirty from me touching it? Should I just spray with water and clean? Use soap, maybe pb blaster, just wondering if it will hurt the freshly polished crank.

 

[Barnes]

NEVER use water when cleaning metal engine parts unless you are using a proper rust inhibitor solution!!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif Use something something like brake cleaner or carb cleaner. And yes, don't get your greasy/dirty finger prints on everything. You only want CLEAN assembly lube on moving parts.

 

[rdomeck]

Quoting yeti:
You just cleared a lot up in my head about piston ring gap,

And I don't have to worry about scratching bearing crank or anything while rotating crank after installing crankanbearings with no lube and same for rods?

Should I just add engine lube as assembly lube? Assemble check specs disassemble add lube and re assemble



When you plastigauge you do not turn anything. You put in half the bearing in the top of the block, put the other half in the main caps. You then set your crank into place, set the small strips of plastigauge on top of the bearing surface. Install you main caps, torque them down......Stop and have a drink of good beer. Something dark that you can't see through! Pull the main caps back off and use your plastigauge pack to measure how much the plastic was squished. Repeat for the rod's. If you turn the crank even a little bit it will rip the plastigauge and you will have to start over.

I use the piston to push down the ring so that I know the ring is square in the bore! Pretty sure that method worked for these engine's. Sometimes the piston top's are shaped a little funny and that doesn't work. As long as you find a way of getting the ring close to it's running position you will be fine.

 

[yeti]

Sounds good, thanks. I should get the courage to do this soon enough..

Also can I install the freeze plugs at end of building?