Redwood
Well-known member
just wondered aboot riding my car in the colder temps.. what all is good to do and what is not...
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cold weather dd
- Thread starterRedwood
- Start date
FlyingEagle
Staff member
You should not have to do anything, except anticipate coldest temperatures between oil changes and appropriate oil grade for said temperatures.
Winter tires, good wiper blades, coolant properly mixed to 50/50 or slightly more on the coolant side of 50/50 (read up on it and you will find out why).
Graphite those door lock cylinders if sticky or notchy, especially if you have the trunk lid cylinder and drive in salty conditions.
Don't setup the car for high boost, if you are all but stock, keep it that way in terms of boost level,
Not sure if there is anything I missed, but a road side safety and repair kit could be ideal.
Oh, if you happen to have any mods that can allow snow to get sucked into the engine, best to re-route to stock like areas/setup. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Winter tires, good wiper blades, coolant properly mixed to 50/50 or slightly more on the coolant side of 50/50 (read up on it and you will find out why).
Graphite those door lock cylinders if sticky or notchy, especially if you have the trunk lid cylinder and drive in salty conditions.
Don't setup the car for high boost, if you are all but stock, keep it that way in terms of boost level,
Not sure if there is anything I missed, but a road side safety and repair kit could be ideal.
Oh, if you happen to have any mods that can allow snow to get sucked into the engine, best to re-route to stock like areas/setup. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Redwood
Well-known member
ok cool just wanted to check.. first time with a turbo car in the winter and didnt want to reck anything. hopefully wont be the dd going into next winter.
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Good post, Flyin Eagle
Disconnecting the clutch switch will reduce the wear on the crank thrust bearings at start up.
Don't boost it when the engine/oil is cold, give it a chance to come up to operating temp first.
Don't let it warm up idling in neutral for extended periods. It's hard on the transmission, as it has no oil pump. It's lubricated by the gears moving fluid onto a drip rail. Idling in neutral doesn;t move much, if any fluid. Your input shaft bearings will thank you!
Just drive it away gently untill things are up to temp, then you can enjoy the colder/denser air and let er rip.
Disconnecting the clutch switch will reduce the wear on the crank thrust bearings at start up.
Don't boost it when the engine/oil is cold, give it a chance to come up to operating temp first.
Don't let it warm up idling in neutral for extended periods. It's hard on the transmission, as it has no oil pump. It's lubricated by the gears moving fluid onto a drip rail. Idling in neutral doesn;t move much, if any fluid. Your input shaft bearings will thank you!
Just drive it away gently untill things are up to temp, then you can enjoy the colder/denser air and let er rip.
Last edited:
Redwood
Well-known member
alright thats how i have been doing it so far have a few friends around here with turbos so i new that one hint. just a lil switch plug to disconnect right near petal??
BrandonEchols
Well-known member
I always warm mine to operating temp before even pulling away from the house, then keep it below 3k for a few mins to get every thing moving smooth before I romp on 'er...
Lofty
Well-known member
Not trying to sound rude so don't take it that way.
I am almost certain the input shaft is rotating in neutral with clutch out.
That being said our gearboxes have oil galleys and I thought that even in neutral, as soon as you fire it up, it is pushing fluid around by the movement of the input shaft.
Unless I'm missing something I figure it's just fine to let it idle in neutral, as you are getting adequate oil flow anyways.
Quoting toybreaker:
Don't let it warm up idling in neutral for extended periods. It's hard on the transmission, as it has no oil pump. It's lubricated by the gears moving fluid onto a drip rail. Idling in neutral doesn;t move much, if any fluid. Your input shaft bearings will thank you!
I am almost certain the input shaft is rotating in neutral with clutch out.
That being said our gearboxes have oil galleys and I thought that even in neutral, as soon as you fire it up, it is pushing fluid around by the movement of the input shaft.
Unless I'm missing something I figure it's just fine to let it idle in neutral, as you are getting adequate oil flow anyways.
Quoting toybreaker:
Don't let it warm up idling in neutral for extended periods. It's hard on the transmission, as it has no oil pump. It's lubricated by the gears moving fluid onto a drip rail. Idling in neutral doesn;t move much, if any fluid. Your input shaft bearings will thank you!
