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92 Gvr4 wiring and fuse questions.

Okay, so I just bought this car for a project and once I got into it I realized it's going to need a lot more work than I thought.

I'll start off with it's a 1992 Galant vr4, belize green but has been rattle canned black. The 1 out of a 1000 number plate has also been ripped off.

When I got it, the guy I got it from said the kids he bought it from tried to wire it for subs and shorted something out or something like that. It appears that they've cut into the wiring harnesses everywhere, I have plugs just dangling in a lot of places, and cut wires.

It runs, but the Gauge cluster doesn't light up, the boost gauge doesn't work, the temp gauge doesn't work, and the fuel gauge doesn't work.

I drove it about 40 miles home, and it ran decently. It didn't seem to be very quick, I'd imagine it wasn't boosting very well.

My first goal is to get all the electricl straight, and then I can move to tune ups.
I have a few picture questions that maybe some of you could answer first

As a side note, I'm in high school and still learning about cars. I plan on going to UTI for auto, but I'm not quite there yet. I have a 95 eclipse gsx, but that's fairly stock as well.




There's 2 of these wired in, and the wiring is all taped up. What's this?



Am I missing fuses? I suck at reading the diagram. I'm guessing headlight maybe? Dunno, just seeing if this looks right.


There's a couple plugs here that were unplugged, not sure what they're too? And near that there was some sort of maybe vacuum line that was just plugged with a screw..



Just a picture of the car.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

from first pic on it look's like those are both boost silonoids.

I cant think of all the plugs in third pic, but the Grey plug is deff. your knock sensor.
 

So why would I have 2 boost solenoids wired in?

And could that be one of the reasons the Check Engine light is on? Isn't it bad that it's unplugged?
 

raptorWagon

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May 17, 2007
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Oak Harbor, WA
You can have the boost control solenoid removed if you're running a aftermarket manual boost controller.
Do you have the cover for that fuse block? That will help you in figuring out what fuse you do and don't have.

Sounds like you got a lot of work ahead to bring that car back to a road worthy status, car has been molested quite a bit from the looks of everything.
 

But I don't see a manual boost controller, it just looks like 2 stock boost solenoids wired in?
And I do, but it's confusing. I don't need the ecs right? And I'm missing my H lamp fuse, headlight? And what is the fuse for that?

Yeah, a lot of work..
 

Well you'll have different solinoids all over your engine bay, not just your boost ones, The reason of them is for all the Vaccum hose's that used to be in it's place.. However with it being hacked up i'm sure you don't need them. the simple way of getting rid of them on stock boost would be to unplug them, Take the vaccum line of the turbo's J-pipe and loop it to the waste gate..i've never seen those problems trigger the Check Engine light but it might?.. Out of every Mitsubishi motor i worked on it's Almost ALWAY's the O2sensor..
 

Here's a good website to learn your plug in's and the sensor's that our in the Engine bay..
It's not our exact engine bay, but the plug in's are almost near the same spot.

www.dsmtech.org
 

mikus

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Jan 11, 2007
Messages
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Location
Aurora IL
If the car is running and it's all as hacked as these look, I'd actually check out vacuum lines first & get that knock sensor sorted. You'll want:
- an MBC
- boost gauge
- probably some new tubing
- to make a home depot boost leak tester

Go over each vacuum line & replace as needed, get the knock sensor back together and then boost leak test. There's vacuum line charts all over here, super easy. Establish the mechanical side first, if there's no ground shorts the electrical can wait (except your ECU if it hasn't been serviced)

Post your car details/ known mods list in a sep. post, and put a link to that in your sig, it'll help us help out
 

These are all really helpful thanks.

Mikus, I'll start with that.

My main electrical problems are

Gauge cluster lights not working
Gas gauge not working
Boost gauge not working
Temp gauge not working
Headlights not working, but corners are.

I'd like to get those sorted out too.
 

DR1665

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Oct 19, 2005
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4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
Quoting AK_DSM:




Definitely missing a couple things, Chief. Alternator, headlights, and the main fusible link is either missing or seriously sketchy.

Snagged this picture from DSMpartout (found through Google image search).



Not sure if UTI has multiple campuses, but if you end up in Phoenix, look us up.
 

Avondale is actually where I'm going, so yeah I will.

And, I figured out the fuses I were missing but what fuses do the headlights and alternator take? And the main fusible link I guess.

Also, any idea on the gauge cluster lights, and the other gauges that don't work? Are they a connected problem?
 

gmp

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Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
549
Location
Denver,co
the dash lights not working was a under hood fuse for me too, i think it was a 15a
 

As I'm looking through that tech website, which is really helpful by the way, i see that my BCS is not hooked up to any sort of hoses? It plugs in but has no hoses coming off either end.

also, off of the Fuel Pressure Regulator, theres a hose that's attached, and in that same bundle theres another hose that comes out that is just plugged?



There's a wire off my intake? that appears to be plugged with paper, and the side attached to the intake? is shittly done also.


This one's a little harder to see. I'm not sure what this is, but it comes off one of the solenoids and it's pretty taped or glued up and an empty spot?


This is just glued off, is there anything that is suppose to go there?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

I've checked all the fuses, and they're all good.

Okay, so theres 3 BCS's I'm guessing. 1 is wired in what looks like correctly, and was not connected.
Theres another one that was plugged into something else, with no tubes coming off of it.
and there was a third one on the aircan itself that was plugged in with no lines off of it either.

 

DR1665

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Location
Iowa City, IA
Avondale! Sweet! It will be nice to have another GVR4 on the west side. I'm not 100% sure where the "new" UTI campus is in Avondale, but figure it can't be more than 20 minutes from me (and I'd have to pass Paul's place to get there). I'm sure we'll end up getting together once in a while.

I stepped out to snag a couple pictures under the hood of 464/1000 for you, but it was raining and my wife pulled up, distracted me, and I forgot to grab shots of the alternator and headlight relays you're missing from that underhood panel. The alternator is a larger, square relay and the headlight is slightly smaller and more rectangular. You know, in case you have that sort of thing lying around. Should be fairly common replacements. 5-finger discount at the pick-a-part or a couple bucks at the local Autozone/NAPA. The fusible link in the top right corner of the panel is a 60A unit. Fairly beefy.

I recently had the headlight relay sh*t the bed and had to replace it. Only pictures I got are the ones used in the GBXM article on DIY: Electrical Spares Kit (hat tip to my good friend toybreaker)

On to pictures: (These may or may not be correct, but 464/1000 seems to run fine like this.) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Solenoid on firewall, viewed from front of car. Two vac lines go into a larger sleeve before heading toward front of car.


2-pin "BCS" solenoid on front of aircan. Clearly pointless, but again, no glaring issues. (And it passes emissions testing.)


Solenoid cluster on firewall side of aircan (looking toward front of car). No idea what these do, to be perfectly honest.


Hope this helps, mate. Keep us posted when you're headed our way.
 

Thanks for the pictures. So I'm clearly missing a lot of vacuum lines.. Not sure what to do about this
Any further help on the pictures would be appreciated
 

mikus

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Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
2,763
Location
Aurora IL
Factory vacuum, for reference...
60865-0-0-0.jpg


What most of us are running, and where you likely want to get to... Credit to Terry Posten
Quote:
Unless you need to meet emmission laws (suckers), do this.

You want to keep the PCV valve in the valve cover and leave it routed into the intake (stock).
You want to keep the large vac line from intake to brake booster (stock).
Remove every other piece of vac tubing under the hood.

Route a new hose from the vent port on the valve cover to:
a - into stock rubber intake tube (stock).
b - into a new oil catch can located somewhere in the passenger side finder well.

Route a new hose from the turbo output (compressor) nipple source straight to the wastegate unless you want to put a boost controller inline.

Route a new hose from the middle (small) port on the top of the intake manifold directly to the blow-off-valve.

Route a new hose from the driverside (small) port on the top of the intake manifold directly to the fuel regulator.

Route your boost gauge hose to the "P" port on the top of the throttlebody.

Remove all other solinoids, filters, misc crap that is left over.



60902-0-0-0.jpg
 

I do need to pass IM, but I'll use this diagram to try and figure it out, thanks.
 

On that first picture, can you tell me where both those vacuum lines go? I'm missing one of them. From that solenoid.
 

E on my intake manifold is a vacuum line that is plugged. Where does the vacuum line E on the intake manifold suppose to go?
 
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